Holley Carb/Vacum Lines
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Holley Carb/Vacum Lines
Hello, it's the Ignorant one again. 
I'm still having trouble getting this newly rebuilt 360 with a C6 and a 600 holley carb to run smoothly. I finally got it timed correctly, but it is still not running right. I know that I have really triedeveryone's patience on here, but I have to contend with a back injury, and rely on other mechanics to help me out with the actual work on the truck. I have found that the one's who do help me have to rely on my expertise and when it comes to alot of things on this project, my knowledge is quite inferior.
Ok...onto the question. I had posted a thread about the power valve on a Holley carb and got the answers I was looking for.
However, I believe now that as well as the power valve problem, there are some vacum questions as well. The C6 has an adjustable modulator valve and the rebuilt trans has been sitting for awhile and I'm sure that it is out of adjustment. Bottom line is, I may have the vacum lines on the carb and brake booster in the wrong places. The truck has power disc brakes, power steering, and a dual point centrifugal advance distributor.
What I would like to know is the correct placement of the vacum hoses on the carb. Such as the one that I had originally going to the vacum advance, ( I changed dist andno vacum advance now)
where does it go? Do I plug off that one on the carb? I have the PCV valve going to the carb as well, and the vacum hose on the brake booster going to the carb too. Is this CORRECT? I bought a "Mr Gasket" 1" aluminum spacer to replace the factory one. I thought that maybe it was leaking vacum. I still have to install it though. Anyway, PLEASE, give some advice on this topic, or maybe direct me to some one who has a vacum diagram to help me out.
Thanks for all your patience and advice....I don't think that there is a better site on the internet that is as helpfull.
Bill
P.S.
Sorry for such a long post!!!
I'm still having trouble getting this newly rebuilt 360 with a C6 and a 600 holley carb to run smoothly. I finally got it timed correctly, but it is still not running right. I know that I have really triedeveryone's patience on here, but I have to contend with a back injury, and rely on other mechanics to help me out with the actual work on the truck. I have found that the one's who do help me have to rely on my expertise and when it comes to alot of things on this project, my knowledge is quite inferior.
Ok...onto the question. I had posted a thread about the power valve on a Holley carb and got the answers I was looking for.
However, I believe now that as well as the power valve problem, there are some vacum questions as well. The C6 has an adjustable modulator valve and the rebuilt trans has been sitting for awhile and I'm sure that it is out of adjustment. Bottom line is, I may have the vacum lines on the carb and brake booster in the wrong places. The truck has power disc brakes, power steering, and a dual point centrifugal advance distributor.
What I would like to know is the correct placement of the vacum hoses on the carb. Such as the one that I had originally going to the vacum advance, ( I changed dist andno vacum advance now)
where does it go? Do I plug off that one on the carb? I have the PCV valve going to the carb as well, and the vacum hose on the brake booster going to the carb too. Is this CORRECT? I bought a "Mr Gasket" 1" aluminum spacer to replace the factory one. I thought that maybe it was leaking vacum. I still have to install it though. Anyway, PLEASE, give some advice on this topic, or maybe direct me to some one who has a vacum diagram to help me out.
Thanks for all your patience and advice....I don't think that there is a better site on the internet that is as helpfull.
Bill
P.S.
Sorry for such a long post!!!
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
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Holley Carb/Vacum Lines
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 17-Sep-01 AT 11:19 PM (EST)[/font][p]Bill, get well soon with the back, been there, done that.
The brake booster and modulator valve should be connected to manifold vacuum. The dist vacuum advance connects to a ported source on the carb, that has no vacuum at idle, but then has vacuum as the throttle is advanced. You may have to test the ports to find the right one. The PCV will connect to a metered larger port, usually at the rear of the carb (or carb spacer). Sorry I don't know specifics for your carb, but this is generally how it's done.
P.S. All unused ports on the carb should be capped.
The brake booster and modulator valve should be connected to manifold vacuum. The dist vacuum advance connects to a ported source on the carb, that has no vacuum at idle, but then has vacuum as the throttle is advanced. You may have to test the ports to find the right one. The PCV will connect to a metered larger port, usually at the rear of the carb (or carb spacer). Sorry I don't know specifics for your carb, but this is generally how it's done.
P.S. All unused ports on the carb should be capped.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 917
Likes: 3
From: Kelseyville USA
Holley Carb/Vacum Lines
Hello, it's the Ignorant one again.
I'm still having trouble getting this newly rebuilt 360 with a C6 and a 600 holley carb to run smoothly. I finally got it timed correctly, but it is still not running right. I know that I have really triedeveryone's patience on here, but I have to contend with a back injury, and rely on other mechanics to help me out with the actual work on the truck. I have found that the one's who do help me have to rely on my expertise and when it comes to alot of things on this project, my knowledge is quite inferior.
Ok...onto the question. I had posted a thread about the power valve on a Holley carb and got the answers I was looking for.
However, I believe now that as well as the power valve problem, there are some vacum questions as well. The C6 has an adjustable modulator valve and the rebuilt trans has been sitting for awhile and I'm sure that it is out of adjustment.
jbhf250> the modultor valve should `see` vacuumn all the time,that is Manifold vacuumn from the manifold `port`
Bottom line is, I may have the vacum lines on the carb and brake booster in the wrong places. The truck has power disc brakes, power steering, and a dual point centrifugal advance distributor.
jbhf250> The Brake Booster line(vacuumn) should come from the Manifold Port.You can find a `multi` hose connector that will let you connect the brake booster and trans. modulator right to manifold vacuumn.
What I would like to know is the correct placement of the vacum hoses on the carb. Such as the one that I had originally going to the vacum advance, ( I changed dist andno vacum advance now)
where does it go? Do I plug off that one on the carb?
jbhf250> YES...plug it/cap it off....
I have the PCV valve going to the carb as well, and the vacum hose on the brake booster going to the carb too. Is this CORRECT?
jbhf250> You can use the carb port for the brake booster if it is big enough..Like 3/8" in size. I would not use the PVC line and Brake booster in the same port to the carb! (My Preference)
I bought a "Mr Gasket" 1" aluminum spacer to replace the factory one. I thought that maybe it was leaking vacum. I still have to install it though.
jbhf250> I think your on the right track. use heavy gaskets on the spacer! Its for the 2bl right?
Anyway, PLEASE, give some advice on this topic, or maybe direct me to some one who has a vacum diagram to help me out.
Thanks for all your patience and advice....I don't think that there is a better site on the internet that is as helpfull.
Bill
P.S.
Sorry for such a long post!!!
I'm still having trouble getting this newly rebuilt 360 with a C6 and a 600 holley carb to run smoothly. I finally got it timed correctly, but it is still not running right. I know that I have really triedeveryone's patience on here, but I have to contend with a back injury, and rely on other mechanics to help me out with the actual work on the truck. I have found that the one's who do help me have to rely on my expertise and when it comes to alot of things on this project, my knowledge is quite inferior.
Ok...onto the question. I had posted a thread about the power valve on a Holley carb and got the answers I was looking for.
However, I believe now that as well as the power valve problem, there are some vacum questions as well. The C6 has an adjustable modulator valve and the rebuilt trans has been sitting for awhile and I'm sure that it is out of adjustment.
jbhf250> the modultor valve should `see` vacuumn all the time,that is Manifold vacuumn from the manifold `port`
Bottom line is, I may have the vacum lines on the carb and brake booster in the wrong places. The truck has power disc brakes, power steering, and a dual point centrifugal advance distributor.
jbhf250> The Brake Booster line(vacuumn) should come from the Manifold Port.You can find a `multi` hose connector that will let you connect the brake booster and trans. modulator right to manifold vacuumn.
What I would like to know is the correct placement of the vacum hoses on the carb. Such as the one that I had originally going to the vacum advance, ( I changed dist andno vacum advance now)
where does it go? Do I plug off that one on the carb?
jbhf250> YES...plug it/cap it off....
I have the PCV valve going to the carb as well, and the vacum hose on the brake booster going to the carb too. Is this CORRECT?
jbhf250> You can use the carb port for the brake booster if it is big enough..Like 3/8" in size. I would not use the PVC line and Brake booster in the same port to the carb! (My Preference)
I bought a "Mr Gasket" 1" aluminum spacer to replace the factory one. I thought that maybe it was leaking vacum. I still have to install it though.
jbhf250> I think your on the right track. use heavy gaskets on the spacer! Its for the 2bl right?
Anyway, PLEASE, give some advice on this topic, or maybe direct me to some one who has a vacum diagram to help me out.
Thanks for all your patience and advice....I don't think that there is a better site on the internet that is as helpfull.
Bill
P.S.
Sorry for such a long post!!!
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Santa Rosa, Calif.
72 F-250
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Holley Carb/Vacum Lines
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 18-Sep-01 AT 00:34 AM (EST)[/font][p]THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU,...... That is EXACTLY what I needed to know!!!!!!! See, I knew that you guys were the best!!!!! I ABSOLUTELY LOVE THIS FORUM!!!! You ALL have helped me out tremendously on this truck.....I could never thank you enough. Now finding someone to re-do everything for me is going to be a trick in itself....lol Seems that workers comp would LOVE to catch me working on this truck, so I'll just make them keep trying even longer.....lol It has been a battle lately trying to get this truck running w/out hurting myself again, or letting them catch me doing something wrong. I really appreciate the empathy "Lone Ranger"!!!
Now maybe we'll see if this fix's the problem and hopefully the power valve in the Holley isn't damaged. I'll keep everyone posted......lol.....Like you thought that I wouldn't HUH???
Thanks so much once again!!!!
Bill
P.S.
John, It's a Holley 600 4V
Now maybe we'll see if this fix's the problem and hopefully the power valve in the Holley isn't damaged. I'll keep everyone posted......lol.....Like you thought that I wouldn't HUH???
Thanks so much once again!!!!
Bill
P.S.
John, It's a Holley 600 4V
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Holley Carb/Vacum Lines
Well guys, still have a problem! I got the vacum lines straightened out, but STILL the engine doesn't seem to want to run smoothly. I really believe that the carb needs adjusting for sure, but you would think that even if the carb needed adjusting, and the timing was still not right on the money, it would start a little easier. Once I get it started, it will idle fine, but when you hit the gas it really seems to hesitate. I do have a terrible exhaust leak so it's hard to tell anything about the timing just by listening to it under the hood. I do have plans to get that fixed, but money is an issue as ALWAYS. But when you turn the key off, and then try to start it, it really seems that the timing is off. Like it advanced too far. It just sets there and goes, "Wa-wa-wa-wa" and then finally starts. (sorry for the analogy)
I'm just absolutely baffled. I know that I installed the dist correctly, I know that the battery is good,(however, the alternator does need replaced) I've been having to put the charger to it when trying to start it. Oh, it also just dies when you put it into gear. I've got limited resources to tools such as meters and vacum gauges, so if any of you suggest to use them....lol....I'll have to get someone who has them, or get them to help me out.
Anyway, what do you guys think is the problem? I'm sure that it'll run alot better when I get the carb adjusted, but anything else to do is beyond me. I've replaced everything from the radiator, to the driveshaft. Everthing is new, or reconditioned. So, I'm up for ALL suggestions!!!!!!!
Thanks once again,
Bill
I'm just absolutely baffled. I know that I installed the dist correctly, I know that the battery is good,(however, the alternator does need replaced) I've been having to put the charger to it when trying to start it. Oh, it also just dies when you put it into gear. I've got limited resources to tools such as meters and vacum gauges, so if any of you suggest to use them....lol....I'll have to get someone who has them, or get them to help me out.
Anyway, what do you guys think is the problem? I'm sure that it'll run alot better when I get the carb adjusted, but anything else to do is beyond me. I've replaced everything from the radiator, to the driveshaft. Everthing is new, or reconditioned. So, I'm up for ALL suggestions!!!!!!!
Thanks once again,
Bill
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Vancouver
Holley Carb/Vacum Lines
I would suggest that you have a vacuum leak, but you say that it idles well. Does it idle perfectly, and without variation in engine speed or a rich smell from the exhaust? Last week I had a similar elusive problem and the cause was a manifold leak, under the manifold where it couldn't be detected.
Eric
Eric
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From: SE PA
Holley Carb/Vacum Lines
Well, for what it's worth (an idiot giving advise to an ignorant one LOL! At least I'm not Dr. Stupid, that was my partner!) OK, if your dist. is aftermarket, it may have to run full, unported vacuum, again, this is just a stab in the dark! If you decide to "test" this, I would hook it up and pull the timing off a couple to 8-10 degrees (play with it like you have been) and see how it runs then. When you hook up your vacuum gauge, you should try on the unported spout of the carb (not on any manifold port that feeds just one cyl.), your reading should be very steady and usually around 15-19 inches at idle. The two idle screws on the sides can be adjusted to obtain the highest reading at idle. When you stab the throttle, the reading should drop way down then come back up above the original and settle back down. For lean or rich, simple test is when you stab the throttle the rpm's should come back down evenly, if it holds high for a bit then drops to idle, usually means a lean mixture, if it drops down below idle and comes back up to idle speed, usually indicates a rich mix. Again, this is a "rough" test and I know your not to this point quite yet, but have faith you will get there soon!