Radiator stop-leak additive
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Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 812
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From: Northwest Florida
Radiator stop-leak additive
My heater core apparently sprung a leak as the windows fogged and strong coolant smell in the cabin. I read from this forum that it's a job bigger than I have time for right now. I added a bottle of Barr's Stop Leak as per instructions. My question is, was that a mistake, or is there a chance it'll actually work as advertised? Short term results are promising (so far).
BTW, I've used this forum with great results, but this is my first post. Thank you for all the help, past and future.
BTW, I've used this forum with great results, but this is my first post. Thank you for all the help, past and future.
Last edited by bunklash; Jan 13, 2006 at 11:51 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Hurricane Alley
Personally, I do not like to use the stop leak. I have used it in the past, many moons ago and it did work but, it was a car that I really didn't care about much and was on it's way out anyway. Since it is the heater core, you could have bypassed it temporarily and then replaced it later. Since you do live in Fla, my guess is that the heat would not really be required much anyway....I also live in Fla and I think I have used my heater a total of three times in the last two years, that I can recall...
Just my opinion....
Just my opinion....
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: DIXIE
The only problem I have heard of with Barr's leak is that it can and often does cause premature failure of the water pump. I have used it in cars in the past but have never seen any problems. I agree that bypassing it would have been the preferred method since you live in Florida but Hey, it worked so I wouldn't worry about it.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Syracuse
Originally Posted by ford390gashog
the leak stop has a great way of blocking coolant flow to the heads and clogging radiators.
Yep, If it stops leaks, it must block other small passages somewhere we can't see. I would (if it were me) drain it, flush it good. Get a pair of vise grips and a rag, and clamp off the hose to the heater core. If you get cold, open the windows.
(I'm from upstate NY, anything over 35* in Jan. is heat wave)
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From: North Central Rural Sask.
I have used it once in my younger years, and when I used it, it was just in an emergency. As soon as I got it home I flushed that crap out and fixed it properly. With the price of an engine being so high, I thought it was cheaper to fix it right, not have any possibility of my engine overheating.
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Northwest Florida
Just so happens it's been 30K miles since last radiator flush (when I bought the truck) so today I will for sure drain, flush and refill. Any hints on the easiest way to get the coolant out of the block? I think I located a drain plug on the driver's side just under a freeze plug, but fear problems getting it out as it takes an Allen wrench. What about the two lines that run to the oil filter mount? And what the heck are they for?
Thanks
Thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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i have had great results on a couple trucks that were 10 years old. that was several years ago.--- for draining, just drain the radiator, add fresh water, drive 5 minutes, then drain agagin. you will get most everything out that way. add the antifreeze the last time.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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I have freinds who have used it successfully. Me, I tried it once last year in a SAAB 9000 for a heater core leak. The core had been leaking for years nover got any worse but just got tired of the smell, it wasn't even bad enough to fog the windows much. The additive wasn't in for a week before I had a head gasket failure. Could have been coincedental as this particular model and engine are known to have head gasket issues between the 3-4 cyclinder, at around 120k (where and when it happened to me) but I'll never use it again. I'd get it flushed and fixed.
