ok.... I give in
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 34
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ok.... I give in
When I first bought my '50 f-1 I swore everything was going to be original But like everything else it never happens the way you want it. I am sick of starting my pickup with 6 volts I want 12, THe constant whirring of the motor turning over slower than the second hand on the clock.
So my question is what is stopping me from basically dropping a 12 volt battery in it?
When I do change it over do I stay positive ground Or can I change it.
Thanks
Colter
So my question is what is stopping me from basically dropping a 12 volt battery in it?
When I do change it over do I stay positive ground Or can I change it.
Thanks
Colter
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 0
From: Seneca, SC
not sure about the positive ground, but I know that all the 6v electronics are gonna have to have resistors wired in line with them to make their input 6v. That's the part that sucks the most. Are you using a 6v starter or a 12v? Seems like the 6v starters that I've heard weren't obscenely slow.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,882
Likes: 3,126
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
You will have to use resistors for everything like guages, heater motor and coil unless you change over to a 12V coil. If you change polarity you'll have to run the wire the opposite way through the amp meter loop. The 6V starter will be able to handle the 12V, you aren't going to run it long enough to hurt unless you really lay into it for a long time. Make sure you change all of the light bulbs. If you wiring is original and in good shape, but I doubt it, it will be able to handle the load. 12V system has less amperage.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
I'm about a year ahead of you. I won't be hacking up my crossmembers or my frame for IFS, etc but going 12v/negative is a concession I've not regretted. Hey, gotta have a stereo!!
My advice: If this is going to be reliable, bite the bullet and buy a gear-reduction 12v starter. They are available for about $150 - 175, sometimes on eBay for less (used). The difference is astounding! And put an alternator on it. (Is this a flat V8 or a 6-holer?) Go all the way and don't look back! My flat V8 throws over and starts before I can get my finger off the button, even after sitting for a month. (Well, my one other concession was an electric fuel pump). An electronic ignition would be nice but it really isn't necessary. How long would it take you to put 5,000 miles on your truck, to where your points would need work? It would take me two years, probably.
No one has mentioned a ballast resistor, but you need one too. Best bet is a Chrysler style "universal", at Checker or Pep Boys, or NAPA:
Ballast resistor (Chrysler): Niehoff AL-125C
About $7
My advice: If this is going to be reliable, bite the bullet and buy a gear-reduction 12v starter. They are available for about $150 - 175, sometimes on eBay for less (used). The difference is astounding! And put an alternator on it. (Is this a flat V8 or a 6-holer?) Go all the way and don't look back! My flat V8 throws over and starts before I can get my finger off the button, even after sitting for a month. (Well, my one other concession was an electric fuel pump). An electronic ignition would be nice but it really isn't necessary. How long would it take you to put 5,000 miles on your truck, to where your points would need work? It would take me two years, probably.
No one has mentioned a ballast resistor, but you need one too. Best bet is a Chrysler style "universal", at Checker or Pep Boys, or NAPA:
Ballast resistor (Chrysler): Niehoff AL-125C
About $7
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,776
Likes: 553
From: Kalispell, MT
Originally Posted by halfdone
Welcome to the darkside.....feel the force 
It's never dark on the darkside....we have twelve volt lighting
It's never dark on the darkside....we have twelve volt lighting
Headers, dual exhaust, 12V neg grnd, pcv system, new wheels, bluedot taillights, #12 billiard ball shift ****, spotlight, dual taillights, turn signals, etc.
Am I really a darksider or just sorta shady???
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 908
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From: Lindsborg, KS
You are more of a sorta shady guy.....
Come on, come over to the darker darkside. You know you've always wanted to get a newer and better V-8 in that truck......lol.. I definently qualify for the darkside with my 1957 F-250, i'm putting in a 1973 MerCruiser 302 and a 5 speed manual transmission. Not to mention all the other parts that have been swapped out.
We not only have twelve volt lighting, we have flame throwers
and all those other toys that original guys can't have.
Anything not original is veering towards the darkside i believe. I'm in the darkside and i love it.
Come on, come over to the darker darkside. You know you've always wanted to get a newer and better V-8 in that truck......lol.. I definently qualify for the darkside with my 1957 F-250, i'm putting in a 1973 MerCruiser 302 and a 5 speed manual transmission. Not to mention all the other parts that have been swapped out.
We not only have twelve volt lighting, we have flame throwers
and all those other toys that original guys can't have. Anything not original is veering towards the darkside i believe. I'm in the darkside and i love it.
Elder User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 736
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From: Owasso Oklahoma USA
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 34
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Thanks guys I think I will need a new wiring harness I keep hearing that crackle whenever I turn the key
Do the 12 volt starters work better than the six volt starters when powered by 12 volts?
Anyone who has ordered a wiring harness from MACs are they cloth covered just like the original, ANd are they complicated? or easy
Thanks
Colter
Do the 12 volt starters work better than the six volt starters when powered by 12 volts?
Anyone who has ordered a wiring harness from MACs are they cloth covered just like the original, ANd are they complicated? or easy
Thanks
Colter
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 2
From: Seattle WA.
I wouldn't waste the extra bucks on an orginal harness, I installed an http://www.ezwiring.com/ harness in my 51 F1 they run around $180.00 with shipping. For the gauge volt drop, go to NAPA Auto Parts and purchase a Constant Voltage Regulator for a mid 60's Ford Pickup and replace the 6V unit on your instrument cluster with it. All gauges will work as they orginally did. You will have to install a 12V coil, and an external Resistor. Just pickup a matched pair to fit a Mopar Slant 6 and you will be good to go. The generator will have to be replaced with a 12V unit, or an Alternator. My Flathead 6 has an early Mustang Alternator and Regulator on it. The starter will be ok to run on 12V although you might want to carry an extra bendix spring because they sometimes break when 12V is added to the 6V Starter. I converted my starter to 12V, I picked up a 12V starter form a 352 or 390 at a swap meet and installed the 6V armeature into the 12V housing and it works great. The only other thing left is the lights all need to be converted to 12V.
I believe a 12V conversion, and Disc Brakes at least on the front is a must on these old trucks.
Hope this helps
Rod
I believe a 12V conversion, and Disc Brakes at least on the front is a must on these old trucks.
Hope this helps
Rod
Last edited by 51ford fan; Jan 13, 2006 at 02:28 PM.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 45
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From: western N.Y.
Ford PU's
Don't think of it as giving in. Think of it as going with the flow. And believe me you'll never go with the flow or have any fun with it if it has the 4.25 rearend that my 48 had. Some concessions have to be made, not jist for fun but for safety in modern day traffic. 99% of the people seeing you come down the road are just happy to see a nice old vehicle. No thought is given whether you went to 12v, have a more modern rearend, a different engine, etc....so don't go worrying about some changing or rearrangin, we like them any way they are. Terry
Don't think of it as giving in. Think of it as going with the flow. And believe me you'll never go with the flow or have any fun with it if it has the 4.25 rearend that my 48 had. Some concessions have to be made, not jist for fun but for safety in modern day traffic. 99% of the people seeing you come down the road are just happy to see a nice old vehicle. No thought is given whether you went to 12v, have a more modern rearend, a different engine, etc....so don't go worrying about some changing or rearrangin, we like them any way they are. Terry
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 328
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Colter, do the swap. Not too difficult and it could always be changed back. Bonusbuilt has a good overview here.
http://www.bonusbuilt.com/12.html
For the guages just get 3 "runtz" resistors to put inline of your fuel, temp, and oil pressure guages. Then rerun the amp wire the opposite way through the loop since you're changing polarity. You'll also need a heavier duty resistor to put on your heater blower circuit. I put a GM alternator in mine but I would have the stock generator rewound for 12V if I was doing it over.
One other note, I never put a resistor on the coil. Just buy the "Blue Streak" points and you shouldn't have any problem. I've got close to 4,000 miles on mine now and haven't even had to adjust them yet.
Not too difficult and it could always be changed back. Bonusbuilt has a good overview here.http://www.bonusbuilt.com/12.html
For the guages just get 3 "runtz" resistors to put inline of your fuel, temp, and oil pressure guages. Then rerun the amp wire the opposite way through the loop since you're changing polarity. You'll also need a heavier duty resistor to put on your heater blower circuit. I put a GM alternator in mine but I would have the stock generator rewound for 12V if I was doing it over.
One other note, I never put a resistor on the coil. Just buy the "Blue Streak" points and you shouldn't have any problem. I've got close to 4,000 miles on mine now and haven't even had to adjust them yet.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
To me,
whiteside = all stock,
greyside = mechanical changes and body "improvements" that do not change the overall design.
darkside = Body modification that changes the overall design and look of the vehicle.
For instance, extend the cab without really modifying its shape is greyside - chop the cab is darkside. French the headlight is darkside, fog lamps are greyside at best.
I am no expert, but I like these - and will stick to them.
btw - evil side is a bowtie in a ford!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ight=gray+side
whiteside = all stock,
greyside = mechanical changes and body "improvements" that do not change the overall design.
darkside = Body modification that changes the overall design and look of the vehicle.
For instance, extend the cab without really modifying its shape is greyside - chop the cab is darkside. French the headlight is darkside, fog lamps are greyside at best.
I am no expert, but I like these - and will stick to them.
btw - evil side is a bowtie in a ford!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ight=gray+side