2wd ball joint replace
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New User
Joined: Jan 2006
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2wd ball joint replace
Hello!
I'm new to this site, but finding it very helpful. I have a 1997 FORD E150 conversion van. I recently purchased new tires and was told at the tire store that I needed upper & lower ball joints replaced. The price tag was about $700.00. I went home jacked it up and checked it out. At a first glance it appears fairly simple, however I'm having a hard time finding detail drawings for parts and procedures. If anyone knows a good resource for these I could really use it. I noticed the passenger side seemed tight, but found a lot of play on drivers side upper. Question? Is there a bushing in the control arm (caster/camber) or is it a solid cast/forged and machined bore that the ball joint fits in. I'm wondering because the play seems to be more in the top (split) portion of the control arm. If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
I'm new to this site, but finding it very helpful. I have a 1997 FORD E150 conversion van. I recently purchased new tires and was told at the tire store that I needed upper & lower ball joints replaced. The price tag was about $700.00. I went home jacked it up and checked it out. At a first glance it appears fairly simple, however I'm having a hard time finding detail drawings for parts and procedures. If anyone knows a good resource for these I could really use it. I noticed the passenger side seemed tight, but found a lot of play on drivers side upper. Question? Is there a bushing in the control arm (caster/camber) or is it a solid cast/forged and machined bore that the ball joint fits in. I'm wondering because the play seems to be more in the top (split) portion of the control arm. If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 333
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From: Toledo, Ohio
Teo, Yes, there is a camber bushing (pre-set) in the upper bore of the I-beam. The job is pretty labor intensive, therefore the price is typically high. It is possible for a mechanically inclined person to tackle this work and save yourself some dough. Basically, you remove the wheel/tire,then the brake caliper, then rotor, then brake backing plate. Access to steering knuckle is wide open at this point, remove Knuckle via ball joints, replace ball joints and then re-assemble. It is not even necessary to have an alignment done unless it is known to be off in the first place or you have replaced any steering parts. Good luck, John
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Joined: Jul 2007
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Originally Posted by kynnhoj
Teo, Yes, there is a camber bushing (pre-set) in the upper bore of the I-beam. The job is pretty labor intensive, therefore the price is typically high. It is possible for a mechanically inclined person to tackle this work and save yourself some dough. Basically, you remove the wheel/tire,then the brake caliper, then rotor, then brake backing plate. Access to steering knuckle is wide open at this point, remove Knuckle via ball joints, replace ball joints and then re-assemble. It is not even necessary to have an alignment done unless it is known to be off in the first place or you have replaced any steering parts. Good luck, John
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Joined: Jun 2006
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PLease do what mhg recommends and read the article on how to do it. It is THE manual to follow. I just did my own on my 98 Club and saved $400. Oh, it was a project that took two people with breaker bars on the bj press. We even heated the knuckle on the lowers to get the ***** out.
There is indeed a pre set camber adjuster in the upper that has a tab that goes in between the pinch bolt. Easy.
Replace BOTH upper and Lower with new high quality part... MOOG. My CarQuest had them for for $47 upper and $41 lower.
Good Luck. Harold H.
There is indeed a pre set camber adjuster in the upper that has a tab that goes in between the pinch bolt. Easy.
Replace BOTH upper and Lower with new high quality part... MOOG. My CarQuest had them for for $47 upper and $41 lower.
Good Luck. Harold H.
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