I am interested in putting a sub box in my 05 Screw. I think I have narrowed it down to a 10" that will be powered by my MTX Thunder 895 with 160w RMS on the sub channel. I don't want super bass, but want it to be decent, which I think the amp will give me. As far as subs go I am looking at the MTX Thunder 4510 or something similar if you all have advice on that as well. (I am wondering if a dual voice coil would get me more output since it is 320W at 2 ohm, but I am not sure I understand much about that so chime in on it if you can.)

Back to the box....

I have looked at pre-made boxes and I am not sure I want to spend the money when I have all the tools to build one myself. I realize the sub would dictate the box so here are the sub details:
10" 4-ohm subwoofer
carbon-filled poly cone with foam surround
frequency response: 35-150 Hz
power range: 50-225 watts RMS
peak power handling: 450 watts
sensitivity: 87.6 dB
top-mount depth: 4-5/8"
sealed box volume: 0.6-1.0 cubic feet
ported box volume: 1.25-1.75 cubic feet

I do not want to have to get a seat riser so I would like it to fit under the drivers side seat and I guess down firing sealed since that it what most appear to be and are able to fit under the seat.

Box measurements will be somewhere around 26" and about 12" deep. The height will probably have to be about 7-5 inches with 5/8" MDF and still allow the sub to fit, no space under it is figuired in to that though. Those are rough measurements, but I think should get me the .6 cubic feet I need. I have looked at the Musicmooseaudio site and will probably build it to look similar to theirs. I am guessing I can build one for a lot less than the $109 they want for theirs.

I have searched the forum and found lots of good information that is helping me, but my question is how high off the floor does the speaker need to be to work properly. Once I know that I can figuire out how high I can make the box.

Thanks!

Dave
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You have to look and see that the excursion doesn't hit the floor because that will end up damaging the voice coil and surround. So allow probably 2 inches for throw? On the specs for the sub it should tell how far it will throw out. I do know that you'll want your sealed box probably bigger than the .6 ft^3 and I would try to get around .8 ft^3. But that might not be possible.

That sub is going to give you the sub-bass frequencies more used in rap and r&b. I personally don't think it will give a roundness to the music but actually seperate the music unless your have your full range speakers amplified to give you more prominent mids. 160 wRMS for your sub will be enough if you're not wanting to wake everybody up when you drive by. I wouldn't be expecting anything huge from it, but mainly just be expecting to hear a broader soundstage rather than feeling it.

I don't think that premade boxes are worth it, they're often super expensive and mainly just put together and sold, not even looking really at their enclosure volume. You would be much better off making your own (especially since you have the tools), and it would be a lot cheaper. I think it's around $30 for a sheet of MDF (4' x 8'), and then you can cover it however you want.

 

Thanks!
Well, I do not listen to Rap & RB regulary...mostly ROck type music, but I enjoy it all. What would be a "well rounded" sub and how can I tell by looking at the specs what the sub would be suited for?

Dave

 

What I mean by well rounded is the ability to reproduce certain frequencies. If you take a step back and look at your speakers, you have your tweeters which produce sounds from around 1500hz-20khz. Then you have your mids which do from around 80hz-4khz. Then you look at your subs and they do from 20hz-1200 hz. The subs you listed do from 35-150, which is "sub-bass". I don't think instruments even really play down there. These subs will play deep down bass which will rattle everything and give you a back massage, but I don't think they'll have tone.

For your sound spectrum you want it to be seemless which is why frequencies overlap eachother within the different drivers. Your mids on your full range speakers aren't going to accurately produce down to 85hz, you'll be able to hear it, but it won't be loud and give you the feeling of being strong and emphasized. I don't know exactly how to word it. But I would look for a sub that goes up around 1khz for it's top-end cut off.

 

I think I understand what you mean and it makes sense...thanks again!

Dave

 

You're welcome, post us with the results

 

I sure will let you know what I get...here are a couple of subs I have been looking now...what do you think. I have been loking at DVC subs because from the way I understand I can get more power if I set it up parallel to get 2ohm's.

Audiobahn AW1051SE Natural it is a dual voice coil that I could wire in parallel and get 2ohm but my amp would push 320watts and the speaker is rated at 300. Would the 20 watts over present much of a problem? It also has shallow mounting depth that I might need.

The other one is the Sony XS-LD105P5. It is a little bit taller and has a freq response of 18-2800 Hz which might be too great.

Anyway thanks again...I am learning a lot which is what I want!

Dave

 

I wouldn't go with Sony personally. What about JL Audio W0 or W1 series? They're pretty cheap and really good quality.

It's always good to have your amp over-rated for the sub, that way you can push it to the limits without distortion.