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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 07:17 AM
  #16  
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The SnoMan
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Originally Posted by Bob Ayers
All capacitors have what's called a ESR, Effective Series Resistance, and will vary depending on the materials used in the capacitor, as well as the manufacturer of the capacitor.
This it true but with the size/value of the capacitor I am suggesting here, it is not really a concern because the size in question is capable of peak discharge currents many many times greater than what it needed here so capacitor heating and power loss will not be a factor here if it is sized as suggested above and for the use above. Also as the size of the capacitor increases design dictates what size and type of material must be used for the working voltages being used and the capacitance as well. You raised a good point but it is not a factor here really in this senerio.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 07:30 AM
  #17  
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Thanks RomerB2 for the BIG 3 link I neede that.Glad I was paying attention.appreciate ya!
 
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 02:51 PM
  #18  
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Ok I found a 170 amp alternator for about $200. That seems like that will work. Now I just need to find a place for the second battery. I am hesitant to put it in the back, because of the whole toxic fumes and venting nonsense. I looked around under the hood, but it didn't seem to leave me any options. Any suggestions there?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 04:34 PM
  #19  
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fordboy_52
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mine is installed in my trucks toolbox. red top optima's also arnt suposed to vent toxic fumes

Matt
 
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 07:46 PM
  #20  
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"Anyway, electricity does not travel at the speed of light - wish it did. Would make my life easier. "

Electricity does travel at the speed of light. I don't know how that would make your life easier, unless you are hiding a transporter in your basement or garage.

Anyway, The Snoman basically restated what I was saying, just in a different way. At anyrate, I don't own one and never will. To each his own. If it helps you, great.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 08:19 PM
  #21  
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alchymist
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Originally Posted by scafes
"Anyway, electricity does not travel at the speed of light - wish it did. Would make my life easier. "

Electricity does travel at the speed of light. I don't know how that would make your life easier, unless you are hiding a transporter in your basement or garage.

Anyway, The Snoman basically restated what I was saying, just in a different way. At anyrate, I don't own one and never will. To each his own. If it helps you, great.
Electricity does NOT travel at the speed of light. Whoever told you that is wrong. Electric and magnetic FIELDS travel at the speed of light. Electrons traveling in a conductor absolutely do not travel at the speed of light. I work in the rf field, and one thing I deal with is called "propagation delay" - the amount of delay an electrical current is delayed while traveling down a conductor. In some case it can be as slow as 60% of the speed of light.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 09:19 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by alchymist
Electricity does NOT travel at the speed of light. Whoever told you that is wrong. Electric and magnetic FIELDS travel at the speed of light. Electrons traveling in a conductor absolutely do not travel at the speed of light. I work in the rf field, and one thing I deal with is called "propagation delay" - the amount of delay an electrical current is delayed while traveling down a conductor. In some case it can be as slow as 60% of the speed of light.
It is called "velocity factor" and it is generally its slowest in sheilded cables and it fastest in open single wires and it is also depends on the frequency of the signal or current and then we could even get into the "skin effect" were current flows on the ouside of conductor but it does not apply here either. 60% is way low with 85 to 90% or more being more the norm here. Unless you are spliting hairs, calling it the speed of light is close enough for here. Also you are starting to skirt on inductive and capacitve reactances of a feed line where volage can lag current or current can lag voltage but this is primarily a factory in RF circuits, not in DC power feeds here, Trying to mudding the water with this accomplishes nothing on this issue unless you are trying to impress someone.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 09:43 PM
  #23  
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Electricity itself is as fast as the speed of light but it's the resistance of particles which slows it down. But I don't care. I'm trying to give this guy the easiest way to upgrade his system, if you want to argue about caps then do it in another thread. But, if you do that, attack the situation, not any people.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 09:56 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by RomerB2
Electricity itself is as fast as the speed of light but it's the resistance of particles which slows it down. But I don't care. I'm trying to give this guy the easiest way to upgrade his system, if you want to argue about caps then do it in another thread. But, if you do that, attack the situation, not any people.
I am not doing the attacking and the correct fix here is a CAP back not a better altenator because CAPS wil provide a much more stable voltage to amp and it will sound better to when hitting it hard beacuse even a 170 amp alt cannot adjust fast enoung to the wide load changes that can take place several times a second when a high powwered amp is run from a car. It will sound bettery with maybe a extra battery, stock alt and a CAP bank than it will without the CAPs and the battery(s) will last longer too.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 10:39 PM
  #25  
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Better alternator is always recommended. Then just get yourself a nice Gel Cell battery. All my customers are happy with a SVR battery. I run dual SVR batteries. One for the truck itself and one for the system. I run a custom dual alternator bracket with twin 185 amp alternators from Ohio Generator. Have not added the belt for the second alternator but will soon when I install the demo system that is taking up room under my pool table.

In over 15 years of professional installation I have never been happy with a capacitor. Alot of people defend them but even my DB Drive techs recommend just adding batteries. I think alot of the ones defending and recommending them are people who have spent so much on them....lol I use them as a last resort if there is limited space for a battery. If so then I make sure it's a quality one. There are alot of them that are all from the same place...just have a different wrapping.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 01:51 AM
  #26  
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I see the use for a cap, but a nice battery will do the same thing! Like a gel-cel like KC said. I'm saying if you upgrade the wiring ($15) and put in a new battery (~$130) you can easily compensate the "power" that a cap has. And your other components from the electrical system don't benefit from a cap. That's what I'm trying to say.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 04:29 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by The SnoMan
It is called "velocity factor" and it is generally its slowest in sheilded cables and it fastest in open single wires and it is also depends on the frequency of the signal or current and then we could even get into the "skin effect" were current flows on the ouside of conductor but it does not apply here either. 60% is way low with 85 to 90% or more being more the norm here. Unless you are spliting hairs, calling it the speed of light is close enough for here. Also you are starting to skirt on inductive and capacitve reactances of a feed line where volage can lag current or current can lag voltage but this is primarily a factory in RF circuits, not in DC power feeds here, Trying to mudding the water with this accomplishes nothing on this issue unless you are trying to impress someone.
Who's muddying the waters? Not trying to impress anyone....i was merely trying to correct some misconceptions. Excuse me if i have darkened the H20..... And guess what - shielded cables are one of the many things I deal with daily, at frequencies to 20 Ghz, so I feel I have an idea about what is going on. And yes, I also work with LVHC DC supplies, up to 500 Amps, so I understand the low end also.........And just wait until the spike generated by the starter solenoid hits any of the electronics common in todays vehicles - any idea on the rise time of that, and what cap could supress it?
 

Last edited by alchymist; Jan 12, 2006 at 04:40 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 05:44 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by alchymist
Who's muddying the waters? Not trying to impress anyone....i was merely trying to correct some misconceptions. Excuse me if i have darkened the H20..... And guess what - shielded cables are one of the many things I deal with daily, at frequencies to 20 Ghz, so I feel I have an idea about what is going on. And yes, I also work with LVHC DC supplies, up to 500 Amps, so I understand the low end also.........And just wait until the spike generated by the starter solenoid hits any of the electronics common in todays vehicles - any idea on the rise time of that, and what cap could supress it?
Gee I was "playing" with 20 to 40 ghz over 20 years ago on some military R&D but what does it matter here. Today 20GHz is nothing. Also I worked with 28VDC power systems providing up to 1500 amps back then too. Some of our test aircraft had specail power needs for ground tests and could power small cities when airborne. The list is long (and I could tell you some stories you would not bellieve either) and I only mention it because you did. I can talk nuts and bolts with you on this anytime and then some as I have 30 years plus in the field. I was even involved some in the original GPS test systems back in 70's, my resume is very long and I KNOW what I am talking about. I do not come here to impress but to help.

WHen you want lowest possible IMD from a amp on of the most inportant thing is a good stable and clean power source and that is not possible with just a battery and a altenator setup. Put a scope on the power feed to amp with a battery and a big altenator and watch the "noise" in the single for voltage changes and hash and them compare it with a few farad Cap bank installed. The difference is night and day.
 

Last edited by The SnoMan; Jan 12, 2006 at 05:47 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 09:36 AM
  #29  
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Man this opened up a Can of Worms. :-) Fishing anyone.

I think a lot of it boils down to personal preference. IMO, I would rather play safe then sorry from past experience, and run with the Capacitor. Todays technology and Batteries combined with a good high amp Alternator may do the trick, but good insurance never hurts.

I may be wrong as there are so many thing that contribute to a good hitting bass without distortion, but it seems like it is a lot more clear with the capacitor as it seems to take a lot of the static out of it.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 10:20 AM
  #30  
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Better alternator is always recommended. Then just get yourself a nice Gel Cell battery. All my customers are happy with a SVR battery. I run dual SVR batteries. One for the truck itself and one for the system. I run a custom dual alternator bracket with twin 185 amp alternators from Ohio Generator. Have not added the belt for the second alternator but will soon when I install the demo system that is taking up room under my pool table.
i love it, i tried a dual alt setup on my ranger but it just wasnt going to happen. i have no room and i didnt want to mess with all the work to do it as this is my daily driver and im not taking chances. my friend had dual stock alt on his explorer when he had his system in it and it was neat. we could run the system with dual bat for about 45 min without the engine on, then start it for mabey 15 and we were good again

Matt
 
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