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[QUOTE=DaveWilliams]Hello all....Does anyone have any pics of the CCV mod? I can imagine what is being done, but to see it will be great! Does anything have to be removed to access whatever has to be done and what exactly am I looking to cut, plug and reconnect to get the dirty air to the rear? Thanks for any pics....Dave
Sorry about posting in the wrong forum. I searched the CCV forum and it came back to the 6.0 one and I have the 7.3. Sorry about that........Hopefully someone has instructions for the "diesel ignorant" folks like me...Thanks again.Dave
Here is a picture of mine. Capped off the intake with a 3/4" cap, turned the piece on the valve cover 180*(clean and grease the gaskets to get them back in place), hook up a 15-20' piece of heater hose, run it over the master cylinder and down the frame rail(zip tie when possible) clear back to the rear brake line on the driver's side where you can zip tie it off pointing to the ground.
if you look in my gallery Dave, you will see a whole bunch more pics of how i tied it into my exhaust. but these few pics are just from the "doghouse" on the valve cover...
very simple and clean. just remove the elbow from the plastic intake piece, rotate it down, and then mitre cut a 45* on the hose, superglue it into place in the elbow. no problems for 5 months so far, i just checked it today and gave the hose a firm tug and it didn't budge. the vapors don't act on the strong-holding CV glue. the hose i used was 1''OD/1/2''ID heater hose.
Here is a picture of mine. Capped off the intake with a 3/4" cap, turned the piece on the valve cover 180*(clean and grease the gaskets to get them back in place), hook up a 15-20' piece of heater hose, run it over the master cylinder and down the frame rail(zip tie when possible) clear back to the rear brake line on the driver's side where you can zip tie it off pointing to the ground.
Probably a dumb question but why run over master cylinder instead of just straight down?
some think that the oil that "accumulates" in the hose will drain back down into the engine and not go down the hose and drip on the ground. the vent DOESNT drip, i took the hose off and inspected the inside after about 3 months and there was no oily residue. it doesnt drip on the ground.
Probably a dumb question but why run over master cylinder instead of just straight down?
I think it allows liquid to run back into the crank case so you don't have a freeze up in the hose going to the back of the truck most importantly, but that also allows for not much, if any, liquid coming out of the hose and just gasses. I first did mine without rotating the doghouse(nice term strokin_it ) and then once I rotated it the hose was much easier to run over the master cylinder and it allows the intake more room also.
Dave.. I just finished my CCV afew months ago.. I disgarded the 4" dia restrictive piece of plastic that the 3/4 pipe comes from and replaced it with a piece of 4" dia stainless steel exhaust pipe (muffler shop probably has a 3 1/2" long piece laying around you can get cheap).. You don't have to super glue anything.. clean easy mod..
I would like to show you a real easy mod since you will have this all apart anyway. To bad posting a picture off my desk top isn't as easy as rebuilding my 4R100!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by ramsmoker; Jan 9, 2006 at 12:32 AM.
Reason: ****ed up
Well from what I saw, it looks pretty simple....just one thing. The little dog house located on the rear side of the drivers valve cover. You take it off, and where the elbow is on the rear side, rotate it to the forward side and the point where the other end plugged into the intake tube, block that off.....run the hose from the elbow down to the frame and out the back......hopefuly this is the cut and dry version.........any other tips will be greatly appreciated...Dave
Nope. Stock, the doghouse connection is toward the front.
This mod is done several different ways. I did mine one way, and others have done it other ways.
If I were going to do it today, I'd use the search function and look up as many ways as I could and then make up my own mind about what works best for me.
There's LOTS of info in the search engine, complete with good photos.
I turned mine around (and changed the o-rings), and used a 3-1/2 inch long piece of 4-inch exhaust piping to replace the plastic ducting, but YMMV.
Pop
Last edited by SpringerPop; Jan 10, 2006 at 10:41 PM.
Thanks Pop I will be giving it a try when my Kwik filters come in. I ordered 2 tonight from fleet filters so we shall see how it goes. The other pics I saw had the little elbow on the aft end so that is what confused me. I have it straight now..........Hopefully!! Thanks again.Dave