Well I did it. I broke the spark plug. The threads are still in the head but there is no longer any "hexagonal "nut" to get a wrench on.

How do i get this thing out.

Is there any way/tool/technigue without removing the heads?

If the head must must come off then what?

 

The only way I can think to get it out would be to punch the ceramic insulator and electrode into the cylinder and using an easy-out to remove what's left of the plug. Head removal is a must with this idea...
Jason Kendrick
1970 F100 Custom 390/C6
1978 F150 Ranger Lariat Supercab 460/C6

 

I would first try to get it out by screwing it out with punch. How did it break in the first place? Where you taking it out or putting a new one in? Spark plugs should never be that hard to get out or be screwed in that tight! I would avoid punching it in the cylinder that accomplishes nothing. If you have to take the head off anyway why do that? An easy-out may be an option, you would first have to drill through the ceramic insulator(don't know what that would be like)but then you could back it out I'm sure. Most of all be patient. Mind over might!!

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 07-Oct-01 AT 09:57 PM (EST)[/font][p]This may sound wierd, but it worked for me. My ex-wife purchased a '78 Bronco back in 1985, and the rear driver's side plug had been rounded off (had original plugs in it). I tried all day to get that thing out, and also snapped the ceramic part off in the process. One of the neighbors came by and saw my frustration. Jokingly he said "Why don't you try putting some Krazy glue in the socket"? as he walked away chuckling. Out of desperation, I tried it. I put some "Krazy Glue" inside of a Metric socket (slightly smaller size than the standard size), and tapped it onto the plug. I waited about 30 minutes for the glue to dry, and then pulled carefully on the ratchet handle. The damn thing came right out. I couldn't believe it! You just might get lucky like I did.
Kenny

 

That is a GREAT story. I'll have to keep that one in the back of my head. You may want to try two-part epoxy. That stuff is amazing.

 

If the porcelain is gone and you have a steel shell with a hole through to accept an easy out, try heating the remains of the shell with a torch and letting it cool before using the easy out. the heat will try to expand it but since the head will prevent it from growing,it will shrink when it cools back down, and likely break any rust seal between the plug and head. Good luck.

 

I would say that any drilling that you do will require head removing as well. Maybe I'm wrong, but I would hate to have ceramic/metal flakes from the plug flying around in my cylinder. I believe that would just be asking for trouble. Now the super glue idea....if it works is genius.

 

Well thanks for the input. I got REAL lucky. The ceramic part of the plug (including the electrode) came out intact (no drilling at all). After removing stuff so that I could get access I took a torch heated it up and used an easy out (again no drilling required) and with a lot more patience then I demonstrated before I got the remnants out without removing the head.

I did have socket and super glue on stand by. I thought that was a great can-do approach to the problem.

 

It is always nice to hear of a happy ending! Thank you for posting the outcome.
Kenny

 

Glad to hear it all worked out!! The superglue idea is great. Some years ago I had a broken head bolt on my 3.0 in my taurus. The shop mechanic put some super glue on the end of the bolt and put it back in the head. Waited five minutes and presto the broken end of the bolt came out with no trouble! Saved me a lot of money not having to pull the top of the motor off.

artskyd

 

you might try some OIL OF WINTERGREEN, just put a very little in the cavity for the plug wait ten minutes then try again. Worked for me on another app.