Fuel fumes
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Posting Guru
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From: Michigan
Fuel fumes
Does anybody have a solution for controling the gas fumes for these tanks that are vented to the air. Between my 56 with a rear mounted no limit tank and my 54 merc car with the stock tank the fumes are getting a little heavy.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,858
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From: Friendswood, Texas
You may want to try routing the vent with a hose or tubing to the rear of the vehicle. That would be my first thought. Second would be to make certain I have my cab sealed up well. Good door and window rubber. No unused holes in the firewall, etc.
Third and most improtant. Make darn certain you don't have a small fuel leak somewhere.
Third and most improtant. Make darn certain you don't have a small fuel leak somewhere.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
NEVER vent the tank "to the air" inside the vehicle! If you can smell raw gas it's nearing an explosive mixture, and you're sitting in the middle of it!!!! Run rubber gas hose from the vent thru a grommeted hole to the outside, and then I'd add a metal tube to take it to the rear of the vehicle. If you should ever overfill the tank at the pump, it will fill the interior with raw gas! I believe the early tanks also called for a vented gas cap, make sure the one you are using is vented so if the gas warms up and expands after being cold it doesn't push fumes out the vent.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
Are you sure that's a vent on these tanks, not an overflow tube? Tanks with an overflow tube the tube was routed with a rubber hose to a tube going back into the filler neck just below the cap so it would shut off an automatic pump, the tank was actually vented thru the fill cap. I wouldn't want an overflow tube to just go to air (actually someone did this on Gracie's tank-panels use an inside the frame saddle tank, found out on the way home when I overfilled the tank at a gas stop and a couple quarts of gas poured out on the ground. It scared the daylights out of us, luckily the exhaust was cool enough that it didn't ignite! I'll be changing THAT arrangement before she goes back on the road!) and would change it to a loop and vented cap system.
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From: Michigan
Yep the tanks in the rear, the fill is thru the top and the vent is really a vent with the hose run to the middle of the chassis at the rear and it has a inline filter, just because I thought maybe it would help. Didn't. Oh there aren't any fuel leaks and on another note the guy who crimped the a/c hoses did it wrong. Guess I should have checked them before he moved his business out of state.
Chuck
Chuck
Last edited by merc546; Jan 7, 2006 at 04:49 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
Originally Posted by merc546
Yep the tanks in the rear, the fill is thru the top and the vent is really a vent with the hose run to the middle of the chassis at the rear and it has a inline filter, just because I thought maybe it would help. Didn't. Oh there aren't any fuel leaks and on another note the guy who crimped the a/c hoses did it wrong. Guess I should have checked them before he moved his business out of state.
Chuck
Chuck
Do your engines use road tube vents rather than PCV? That can be a major source of fumes if you have worn rings a misfiring cylinder or too rich a carb setting.
Last edited by AXracer; Jan 8, 2006 at 10:56 AM.
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From: Michigan
AX,
I guess I forgot to say the fumes seem to be too heavy in the garage, there are no fuel leaks, the engine has a recent rebuild and both vehicles have a pcv (made one for the merc Y-Block). The fuel tank is a No Limit Eng 17 gal rear frame mounted unit.
Gary E,
I think that is the solution, just need winter to go away so I can look around the salvage yards.
Thanks all, Chuck
I guess I forgot to say the fumes seem to be too heavy in the garage, there are no fuel leaks, the engine has a recent rebuild and both vehicles have a pcv (made one for the merc Y-Block). The fuel tank is a No Limit Eng 17 gal rear frame mounted unit.
Gary E,
I think that is the solution, just need winter to go away so I can look around the salvage yards.
Thanks all, Chuck
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 3
From: Friendswood, Texas
May want to make certain the garage has the proper number of and size soffet vents. I have the same problem with my shed (8'-0" x 12'-0") that I built on to the back of my garage. It's where I store my gasoline and lawn equipment.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
The charcoal filters also have vaccuum on them to draw the fumes back into the engine. Without a way to draw off the evaporating gas, the charcoal would be no better than the inline filter. Have you checked with No Limit to see what they say? My mantra is if I'm having a problem with a product I contact the manufacturer first for a solution. The only need for a vent on the tank is to prevent air lock from making it impossible to fill the tank at a reasonable rate, but then the vent should be plumbed back into the filler neck above where the pump nozzle reaches. A vented cap or a T in the vent line with a oneway valve to allow air into the tank but keep the fumes from coming out would allow air in as the gas is drawn out. IMO leaving a open line vent would allow air to freely draw in and out with temp changes which would be asking for condensation problems in the tank. and evaporation of the lighter components in the gas durring sitting leading to poor running and varnish buildup. You wouldn't leave the gas cap off your lawn mower would you?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Ax,
I had a vent tube added to my stock 48 gas tank where the neck comes off the tank. I plan to use a non-vented cap to allow the fumes to exit the vent and go into a charcoal filter located underneath the cab. My thought was that the expansion of the gas in the tank would force the fumes into the canister. Are you saying I would also need a vacuum source to the cannister to make this work? I was not planning on one but I suppose I could rig one up if I had to.
Vern
I had a vent tube added to my stock 48 gas tank where the neck comes off the tank. I plan to use a non-vented cap to allow the fumes to exit the vent and go into a charcoal filter located underneath the cab. My thought was that the expansion of the gas in the tank would force the fumes into the canister. Are you saying I would also need a vacuum source to the cannister to make this work? I was not planning on one but I suppose I could rig one up if I had to.
Vern
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Vern,
The next time you are at the wreckign yard poking around, look at how the charcoal canisters are set up. AX is correct, they have the line comign from the fuel system that takes teh vapors to teh canister and then another line to the carb that is usually controlled by an electric solenoid that directs the vapors back into the intake.
The charcoal canisters were one of the first emissions related components are designed to reduce the amount of raw hydrocarbons being emitted for a car. It should be easily adaptable to our trucks. I would check out earlier systems, from the mid to late 70's as the solenoids were not computer controlled.
Good luck,
Bobby
The next time you are at the wreckign yard poking around, look at how the charcoal canisters are set up. AX is correct, they have the line comign from the fuel system that takes teh vapors to teh canister and then another line to the carb that is usually controlled by an electric solenoid that directs the vapors back into the intake.
The charcoal canisters were one of the first emissions related components are designed to reduce the amount of raw hydrocarbons being emitted for a car. It should be easily adaptable to our trucks. I would check out earlier systems, from the mid to late 70's as the solenoids were not computer controlled.
Good luck,
Bobby
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
yes, the charcoal is basically a sponge and has a finite capacity for the fumes before becoming saturated and the canister starts accumulating raw gas. You also need some sort of air intake vent to prevent a vaccuum in the tank as the fuel is drawn off or soon you'll starve for fuel.
It would make more sense to plumb a vent on the tank to your inlet neck tube for filling purposes and overflow, then T in a one way valve (a PCV valve could be used) or use a vented cap to vent the tank.
It would make more sense to plumb a vent on the tank to your inlet neck tube for filling purposes and overflow, then T in a one way valve (a PCV valve could be used) or use a vented cap to vent the tank.
Last edited by AXracer; Jan 9, 2006 at 11:18 AM.