I have a almost new Homelite chainsaw that has only been used a few times and now it will not run unless it is choked almost fully. I cleaned the fuel inlet filter but that made no difference. The mixture screws have tamper proof caps on them that look like they take a special tool to remove. It is a Homelite model UT10947D. Is there a pulse (diaphram) fuel pump on these saws? I see there are two fuel lines in the tank, one with the filter, being the inlet and another that I would guess is a return line. Any help is sincerely appreciated,
Thanks,
Larry M

 

Check that the carb isn't loose and sucking air. check the gas line too.

 

Heya Larry,
I have the Homelite UT10926 model and love it. Have had it about 3yrs with no problems, with proper maintenance. You say yours is "almost new", how many hours of use does it have? I ask because I use mine every year to cut my own firewood and have not had to adjust the carb screws or the ignition coil spacing. I wouldn't think yours would need that much attention yet? When I use mine I will prime the fuel bulb a couple times past full. Then have full Choke on. Then with full throttle 2 or 3 pulls gets it started. I hold the full throttle for a few seconds until the carb is getting good fuel flow on it's own. Then I can let go and it goes to idle rpms and warms up.
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Here is what keeps mine running like a top and what I would recommend for yours:
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1) DO NOT mess with the mixture screws. That is the absolute last thing you want to do.
2) Change to fresh gas if it has been sitting in the chainsaw since last year. Don't bother mixing old gas with new. It's not worth it.
3) Check the condition of the spark plug and it's gap. Replace if needed.
4) If the clear rubber primer bulb is working and pulls fuel into it then don't mess with the fuel lines yet.
5) Take the top plastic plate off that hides the carb and reuseable fabric air filter. Dust the filter off with a soft bristle brush and spray it down with carb cleaner to ensure clean air flow. Set the filter aside to air dry. While drying spray the carb inlet, choke plate, and surrounding areas of the carb with carb cleaner. Give it all a generous spray down. When done, and everything is put back together you will want to prime the fuel bulb a couple times after it fills up. Then give it full chock and full throttle grip and try to start it. It may take 4 or 5 pulls to get it to start with all that carb cleaner remaining in the carb, but it should work. Keep it running at full or close to full throttle long enough to burn off the carb cleaner. You can tell because when you start to let go of the throttle it will slow the rpms down but it won't sputter and die.
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Check the spark arrester in the muffler. If it gets clogged with soot it will not run. I know from experience as it has happened to me with weedeaters and chainsaws. Quick test is to take the muffler off and try to start it, if it starts its the muffler or spark arrester (little screen in the muffler).

 

i have a STIHL, love it. My dad has had it for as long as i remember and has now passed it on to me. But yah most small engines tend to have problems, our echo weed eater and our echo hedge trimmer have had starting and running problems multiple times. This is the same with a gas powered go ped scooter my buddy had, each of my friends had them and almost all the did werent riding for a week without getting engine problems. I dont know if its true or just coincidence but i think all small engines tend to have problems like that.

 

My Stihl has a cold weather setting where you switch the air intake around so it draws air from a different direction to improve cold weather performance. Other than that, fresh premix and a fresh plug, especially if you're still on the original plug that it came with.

 

Most likely it just needs the carb adjusted ,whens the last time you used it and it ran good? If it has been sitting for a couple of months you might get away with a adjustment.If it has red and white caps on the adjusting screws there not to hard to remove,If they dont have caps they will be shaped like a "D" and you will need a special tool but one can be made out of copper tubing.If the saw was sitting longer then 6 months I would recomend having the carb cleaned and new diaphragms installed(THE FACTORY ONES ARE JUNK!)remember you want to open the screws (counter clockwise)a 1/4 to 1/2 turn only from where they are sitting now to get it to run.If you need help removing the caps post it and I will tell you the easyist way to remove them.

 

I have used it 5 or 6 times in the last month and it ran fine. This problem just came up yesterday.

 

Buy a Husquvarna.

 

If only husky dealers didnt think there was gold buried in them somewhere eh!

 

If you remove the air filter cover (three screws) then remove the rewind housing(four screws) you can get to the caps,remove the black cover that is covering the adjusting screws,now you can get to the red and white caps you can use a pair of dikes or needle nose pliers and pull straight out on the caps(they might shatter) you can also use a screw driver to help pry them off ,just becareful not to bend the screws to bad.Once there off you can now adjust the screws with a little screw driver.On the carb at the base of the screw you will see a L and H start by opening them both a 1/4 turn.Reassemble your rewind cover and try to run it,if it wants to stall when you crack the throttle open the low speed a little more ,if it idles but dies when you give it gas open the high speed screw a little more,if you have to open the screws more then one turn to make it run it might need the carb cleaned.If all else fails take it to a shop and have some one there adjust it for you,some times I wont even charge some one if it is a simple adjustment other times 10-20 if I have to remove the caps and adjust it,hope this helped keep us posted.