Lets discuss a Distributors death
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Spokane WA
Thanks for the input you two, If the box doesnt fix it, which I dont think it will, Im gonna take care of making sure we have a good ground on Saturday, if that doesnt fix it, Ill start looking at the distributor, which will entail pulling it out and throwing it in the trash can 
Ill keep you all posted
Ill keep you all posted
Last edited by Icicle; Jan 6, 2006 at 09:03 AM.
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From: South Central Boise
Do you have the correct resitance in your coil? That was my problem once, it ran 200percent better after I fixed it. And my distributor lobes were toast. Points need X resistance and electronic needs Y resistance.
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From: Alaska
One grounding point that is often overlooked is at the holddown screw inside the distributor that secures the stator assembly, it is the ground for the stator.
Another trouble spot(s) are the multipin plugs in the ignition system, There are three of them, make sure they are clean and tight.
Another trouble spot(s) are the multipin plugs in the ignition system, There are three of them, make sure they are clean and tight.
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From: South Central Boise
kspilkinton, as far as I know there are coils that have different internal resistances. Sometimes you have to use an external resistor to have your distributor system work correctly. Am I wrong or insane?
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Postmaster
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From: Spokane WA
Originally Posted by thesprocket26
kspilkinton, as far as I know there are coils that have different internal resistances. Sometimes you have to use an external resistor to have your distributor system work correctly. Am I wrong or insane?
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From: Virginia
Here's some good info and a stator test you can perform.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800a506e.jsp
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800a506e.jsp
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: South Kitsap County, WA
Originally Posted by thesprocket26
kspilkinton, as far as I know there are coils that have different internal resistances. Sometimes you have to use an external resistor to have your distributor system work correctly. Am I wrong or insane?
In detail - off the cuff- correct me if you see a flaw in my reasoning:
Coils are inductors first, resistors second. This is a DC system, but the coil builds up a field and discharges it, so in fact it is a weird AC. You'll have the properties of both AC and DC in the ignition system after the Duraspark box. This is partially why we use ballast resistors in some systems. The ballast resistor is really a filter/capacitor... in the end we are trying to make a power factor as close to one - or make the inductor/coil impedence match the filtering circuit/ballast resistors impedence. This should be taken care of by the electronics of the duraspark. However, if the impedence cannot be matched due to the limitations of the electronics, you will experience problems. These probelms should be evident all the time, and in Kevin's case, they are not.
This is why I'm leaning towards an electrical problem on the input side of the ignition module. The input voltages being slightly off when cold, then right on when the truck is warm indicates a gound that is related to engine temperature.
-Kerry
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From: South Central Boise
Thanks man. I was just giving ideas. I'm not working on this truck and it wasn't mentioned yet. And thanks for the friendly jab. I thought you thought I was talking about someting else. I know it's all ball bearings these days, even in mufflers!
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From: Spokane WA
UPDATE:
I put a new Negative cable on, Ran a ground from the Battery to the body of the truck also, and believe it or not, after a test drive so far so good.
Negative cable was shot pretty good, all corroded inside.
We'll see after a trip to work and back if the problem is gone for good.
I put a new Negative cable on, Ran a ground from the Battery to the body of the truck also, and believe it or not, after a test drive so far so good.
Negative cable was shot pretty good, all corroded inside.
We'll see after a trip to work and back if the problem is gone for good.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Originally Posted by Icicle
UPDATE:
I put a new Negative cable on, Ran a ground from the Battery to the body of the truck also, and believe it or not, after a test drive so far so good.
Negative cable was shot pretty good, all corroded inside.
We'll see after a trip to work and back if the problem is gone for good.
I put a new Negative cable on, Ran a ground from the Battery to the body of the truck also, and believe it or not, after a test drive so far so good.
Negative cable was shot pretty good, all corroded inside.
We'll see after a trip to work and back if the problem is gone for good.
Still Good?