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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 07:28 PM
  #16  
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From: chicago burbs
no, i'm not buying into the timing being 180 out. you'd have flames shooting out the carb and surely would not run at all. a completely flat exhaust lobe, collapsed lifter or bent/broken pushrod could cause popping out the carb though, if the exhaust valve did not ever open, the combustion would come out through the intake when it opened. it was common with the 305 chevy engines, they'd sound like they were making popcorn in the aircleaner. can you do a compression test? another simple test is to spray some water on the exhaust manifold runner to see if you can tell a difference between any of the cylinders. if one doesn't make the water spit off the same as the rest you've found your problem cylinder, then you have to find out why.
 

Last edited by grclark351; Jan 2, 2006 at 07:30 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 12:11 AM
  #17  
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From: airdrie alberta
i did a compression test on the pass side bank of plugs and 3of the 4 plugs were 150psi,the 4th i couldn't get tester in properly for test-a buddies really old comp tester.i'm still wondering if i turn cap back counter clock wise and play with idle screw would that help at all?i'm still gonna change chain,but just curious to see if that might be the problem.probably a goofy idea,but thought i might try.what do you guys out there think?thanks.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 06:06 PM
  #18  
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From: chicago burbs
did you have the carb linkage propped open with a screwdriver or such? the throttle needs to be open during a compression test for the cylinders to get as much air as they want, and all the plugs out so the engine can spin a little faster. how many pulses did you let it hit on each cylinder? i usually go 4 sometimes 5 but all cylinders the same amount, and i watch to see if they all come up about the same. you're going to need a lot more than 3 out of 8 holes to find out what's going on in there!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 06:56 PM
  #19  
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Chain may be loose, but shouldn't cause symptoms you describe. Sounds like timing is off. Make sure you're on compression stroke when going to TDC, it will start if you're close on distr. stab.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 10:28 AM
  #20  
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From: airdrie alberta
i'm still learning so i need top ask how to tell when i'm on compression stroke?is that when i can hear hear coming up when turning by hand?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 11:04 AM
  #21  
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From: chicago burbs
if you know the engine is in running condition you can look at the rotor and when it is near the #1 tower of the cap you are in the compression stroke. if the engine is not in running shape you can use your finger in the spark plug hole, as you turn the engine you will feel pressure trying to push your finger out of the hole. holding a plastic drinking strawand touching the piston through the plug hole can be used to tell when the piston is at the top if the timing marks are suspect or known to be way off. it's not considered accurate but it lets you know your close. there will be an area of a few degrees where you won't be able to tell the piston is moving up or down, the middle of that area is dead nuts TDC. in this case close will work.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 08:40 PM
  #22  
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From: airdrie alberta
can you help me to tell which test to check for head damage or worn rings,i know you put oil down plug hole and do compression test but can't remember if it goesup it means heads are nfg or rings are worn.talked to a ford dealer today and he doesn't think it is my timing chain but he's not positive of what else it could be.buddy thinks it could be my rings or heads.any help is greatly appreciated,thanks.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 01:02 AM
  #23  
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Squirt just a little oil in cylinder, crank over for compression test. If it goes up markedly=rings; if not much change=valves. Just don't put gobs of oil.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 11:13 AM
  #24  
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From: airdrie alberta
right on,thanks for the help.either way i'm guessing i'm looking at a rebuild in the very near future when the budget allows.thanks for the help guys.
 
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