05 trailer plug constant hot wire
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Elder User
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From: Happy Valley, Oregon
05 trailer plug constant hot wire
i have an 2005 with the tow pakage and intergrated brake control. I would like to make to charging wire on the plug to be hot at alll times(with the key off). I have a enclosed 26' snowmobile trailer which has light inside of it and I would like to be able to run them without havign to turn the key on. Anyone know the best way to complete this.
Junior User
Joined: May 2004
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Two options:
1. Run a wire from the battery to the 7-pin connector on the bumper. Snip the factory circuit and connect your new wire.
2. Add a battery on the trailer and hook it up to the trailer plug. The truck will keep it charged, you can use lights when trailer is unhitched, and it never hurts to have a spare battery when you are out in the sticks.
1. Run a wire from the battery to the 7-pin connector on the bumper. Snip the factory circuit and connect your new wire.
2. Add a battery on the trailer and hook it up to the trailer plug. The truck will keep it charged, you can use lights when trailer is unhitched, and it never hurts to have a spare battery when you are out in the sticks.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Woodstock, GA
Question on option 2...
How would the hookup go? Factory wire through plug into trailer, snip existing accessory wire and connect to the (+) terminal of battery? And then attach the accessories to the (+) terminal also? And then bring the (-) terminal back to the common on the plug? This would put the battery in parallel right and not double the voltage, just the amperage?
Thanks in advance.
How would the hookup go? Factory wire through plug into trailer, snip existing accessory wire and connect to the (+) terminal of battery? And then attach the accessories to the (+) terminal also? And then bring the (-) terminal back to the common on the plug? This would put the battery in parallel right and not double the voltage, just the amperage?
Thanks in advance.
"Mifflin Clay"
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,177
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From: Mifflin, PA
I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams, but I believe there is a relay under the hood that turns the charging wire on with the ignition. Should be an easy task to pull the relay and just jumper the two terminals together -( + 12 to charge wire). Look at the diagram on the relay to figure out which terminals. Or take a dead relay and open it up, cut out the coil, and just solder a wire across the remaining two terminals, and plug it in .......Just check the wiring diagram to be sure ......BUT, if you forget to turn the light off you will have a dead battery - the main reason it comes on with ignition in the first place.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Wayland, MI
rljet.....You would want the ground wire to go directly to the trailer frame, there may be an existing ground bolt you can use. The positive from the 12v feed wire to the battery, and the wire to the switch for the lights inside from there, be sure to put a fuse in line.
Toyman
Toyman
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Elder User
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From: Happy Valley, Oregon
Thanks to everyone. I think I going to try and figure out if I can get rid of the relay. If not it is on to running a separte wire.
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Elder User
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From: Wickenburg, AZ
If you've got the factory plug on there, it should have a little diagram on it that tells you which terminal is what, and from there you should be able to get the wire.
Unless something has changed drastically between 04 and 05, I woulu point you in the direction of the orange wire being your 12V + source from the truck.
As another idea, you might be able to simply remove the battery charge relay in your power distribution box and put a jumper across there. If you do that, though, I would advise that you make sure that the circuit will still have a fuse on it (if not, add one) and be sure that the jumper is a heavy enough wire gauge to handle the amperage you plan on sending to that trailer. The factory wiring is only good to 20A, I believe. I can't remember the wire gauge. 12 or 14 probably.
Personally, I like the second battery route. It doesn't require any messing around with Ford's wiring.
Unless something has changed drastically between 04 and 05, I woulu point you in the direction of the orange wire being your 12V + source from the truck.
As another idea, you might be able to simply remove the battery charge relay in your power distribution box and put a jumper across there. If you do that, though, I would advise that you make sure that the circuit will still have a fuse on it (if not, add one) and be sure that the jumper is a heavy enough wire gauge to handle the amperage you plan on sending to that trailer. The factory wiring is only good to 20A, I believe. I can't remember the wire gauge. 12 or 14 probably.
Personally, I like the second battery route. It doesn't require any messing around with Ford's wiring.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Utah County, UT
For what you are wanting, go with the jumper option, pull the relay, probably 4" of wire, 12 ga. crimp some large spades (male) on each end, plug it into the appropriate slots where the relay was. The output will still be fused by factory 30A fuse in the fuse box. As stated before, this will allow the possibility of dead batteries from the trailer but is by far the easiest way. I went the route of adding a battery, but that is more involved than putting in a jumper.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Palm Bay, FL
Originally Posted by ford390gashog
the easy way would to just add a battery to the trailer.
Properly solving a problem is doing so in a way that doesn't create potential for others. Newer truck circuitry is very sensitive, there's a lot going on in the CJB, and it's an expensive item to replace (backside is non-serviceable). Think long and hard before modifying your wiring/circuitry.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Utah County, UT
Originally Posted by Toyman
rljett
you should be fine with a fifteen amp fuse.
toyman
you should be fine with a fifteen amp fuse.
toyman
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