I have a 95 F-150 4X4 5.0 FI ext. cab with dual tanks. Today the truck was idiling and it just quit running. Went to start it and nothing. I checked the pressure at the fuel rail and nothing. I had this happened once before and took it to the dealership. $500.00 later they replaced the fuel pump about two years ago. This was the front pump. Again the same pump. How difficult is it to replace and what process is involved? I looked up the pump and it looks like about $150-200 just for the pump. Any help would be appreciated. Oh by the way the rear tank doesn't work either, Hasn't worked for years.

 

If the Check Engine light come on and then goes out as normal then I would check the fuel pump (FP) relay if I were you. Or just replace it. They're like $8 and its good to have a spare. The EEC relay uses the same relay.

other items to check would be the Inertia sensor behind the right (pass.) side kick panel, the FP fuse, Shorted wiring under the bed or on the tank itself. Its rare a 2 year old factory pump would die.

 

I can't sort thru your problem right now, could be a few reasons why the pump is dying..even a loose connection at the dashboard tank selector switch would shut you down.
I have dropped the front( I haven't done the rear tank yet) tank and replaced the front sender/pump assy. It took about three hours and I was alone.
Run the tank dry, or siphon it out, a few gallons left inside the tank is OK but the gas will flow from end to end as you lower the tank, it makes the tank harder to balance as it is dropped. Relieve the gas pressure from the lines..(THIS IS IMPORTANT) your case may be different, but I simply ran the pressure down by turning off the fuel pumps at the inertia switch, and cranked the engine until it stopped running.

Disconnect the 4 wire electrical connector from the top of the tank, this connector supplies power to the pump and also has two wires that are used to return the resistance signal from the sender( the sender resistance is 16 to 160 ohms). Loosen the two straps, place any kind of support you can find under both ends of the tank( I used blocks of wood) and using a hydraulic jack lower the tank about 4 inches, that is enuf room to start removing hose connections. There are two metal fuel lines( feeder and return) that feed in right at the pump ( where the four wire electrical connector is). They must be disconnected with a spring-lock coupler removal tool, I think they are 5/16 inch. Please make sure you have safety glasses on, and be prepared for gasoline to spray out of the lines, there may still be pressure in the line. You will spill some residual gas at this point, so put something under the tank to catch what flows out of the fuel lines.

I loosened the filler tube at both ends, the top clamp first, then the bottom clamp. The filler hose is hard to pull off the top of the tank, there is very little room around the filler hose, it is hard to get your arms and hands where they need to be, because you will likely be on your back under a jacked-up truck, the rear suspension is there. Don't forget, you must use proper safety stands and chock the wheels also! Leave the filler tube in position, there is no reason to separate it from the truck, just leave it where it is once it is disconnected. The next step is to is to disconnect the emissions line, it is a 3/4 inch rubber line that is separate from the main pump/sender assy. IT may be seized onto the tank fitting, the fitting is plastic, so don't take any chances, if the rubber hose won't come off, Just cut the end of the hose and be prepared to splice and replace what you cut.
That should get the tank free, the tank straps can be removed completely, try not damage the rubber gasket too much, I reused mine. Drp the tank by hand or lower it with a jack to the ground.
The fuel pump/sender assy. can be removed at this point. First, Clean all dirt from the top of the tank and clean the top of the pump assy. There will be alot of small rocks and dirt trapped around the assy. you do not want that to fall in the tank. I used compressed air to help clean off the tank. There is a ring that secres the pump assy into the tank, this ring can be lossened by placing the head of a sturdy screwdriver onto one of the rings' tabs and tapping the screwdriver witha hammer until the ring loosens. Once the ring is loose, the pump should lift out.

 

I got my truck fixed. It turned out to be the wiring. When they hooked the pigtails up when they replaced the pump two years ago they did a poor job. The connections rusted and I was only getting 5 volts back to the pump. This was done at the dealership. I had to splice new wires in, solder them, and then put shrink wrap over them. Back in business.

 

glad it was so cheap a fix.

it is sad that you paid good money with the expectation of having it fixed correctly, and it was not.

it was worse that it was at a dealership that this happened.

i would inform them and request a discount if you ever use them again.

they will probably want to make this right.