Ok I put the holley back on , and took it out and read it at 50mph flat road and found I was running about 890 mv, rich, after studying a few articals on the net desided to down jet in stages, am down to 67 main jets and the flat road test yealds aprox 820mv avarage. so will drop down to 65's and test agin that should get me clost to 500-600mv, then I should get around 700-800 mv under slight load ( slight incline. ) if I cant get enough flow to get this it is sugested to open the PVCR's each one a thousands at a time till I get the proper fuel reading, ( this Ox sensor is a godsend for seeing what is happining under differant conditions.) It looks like the holley 500 was set up for raceing and was jetted to use a fat main jet under mostly high to WOT conditions, What I need to do is decrease the main jets to stoch for cruse ,and then have the Power Valve and PVCR's take over as fuel demand is needed, Im understanding it and it makes sence, Im proly wasteing time trying to make basicly a circle track carb into a street carb, but frankly it seems to run pretty sweet on this engine. so the time is worth it.Has anyone done this and of so what PVCR size did you end up with ?

 

jav, you did get the correct gasket in there, right? You are beyond what I have ever needed to do to get my Holley's running well, I do not have the O2 sensor. You must work in VERY small increments when changing the PVCR's, so the .001" at a time should be safe. Just remember it is hard to drill the hole smaller if you go to far!!!!! You also need to be sure the lean point is not before the PV opens, it might mean a change in the PV to a 2 stage or lower opening point. That might be worth a try before drilling the metering block.

 

yep got the right gasket. gona chage jets tonight if the rain wil let up a bit.

 

interesting night, pulled a couple of plugs and thay were sooty, Droped to #65 main jets and replaced the power Valve from 7.5 to 6.5 , Adjusted Idle and rechecked Float level it was good. did a run and I think I hit it. Flat ground 45-50 and runs 400-650 mv Thats as dead on to 14.7 as I think im gona get with a carb. hit it hard and it momentarly went to 180mv then jumped to 900mv showing the power valve is kicking in. And I gained a pantload of power !! Wow barely touching the pedel and runs 45mph, will check the plugs sunday to see how they are burning. So I went from #74 jets , 4.5 power Valve , and a 50cc accelerator pump( Factory) to #65 jets , 6.5 power valve and a 30cc pump, if it runs like it did tonight im happy, I will have to see how the plug burn is. The thing runs more like a galaxie than a truck now.

 

It's nice when it all comes together isn't it!!

 

Ok I finally got the holley Jetted pretty good , ended up with a set of #63 main jets ( thats 11 jet sizes smaller than the ones it cam with.) and a 7.5 powervalve ( it came with a 4.5 ) , didnt need to drill out the PVCP's but ran into another whole bag of worms, Carb Iceing, BAD , even with the stock Air cleaner and heater duct on a cold morning 35 degrees it Iced up at startup
It took warming the engine up ( it would run but for a few min ) letting it sit then starting it agin ( and then on the way to work it iced up agin ) so sunday I spent the whole day dialing in the 2100. changed the Float levels several times and Drove it till every thing ballanced out.
finall conclution - holley was a waste of money, on my set up at least. The 2100 now runs great smooth and responsive. Starts up and no iceing even this morning when it wa 29 degrees. now maby if I had a better Manifold and higher compresion ( getting 17 lbs of vacuum at Idle ) The Holley might work. but after today I am seriously considering a 4 bl Autolite Carb even with a better manifold.I alway thought the Autolite carbs were inferior to holley or eldabrock. But after reading lots on the internet Im finding that in many ways its superior to eather.
Finally some closeure, at least for now, hehe you never know.

 

Did you block the exhaust crossover in the intake manifold?

There is also a heater plate that prevents the carb from icing up...

 

I dont know, the manifold gets hot after the motor gets to temp, Their is a 1/2 inch spacer between the manifold and Carb to which the pvc valve is connected. I have had no problems with carb Iceing all day with the 2100, so I doupt the manifold is the problem. I think im gona leave it alone for a while, it's running that good and I sure dont want to mess it up. dont know what you mean by a "heater plate" havent heard of it before. if your refering to the flaper in the exause manifold it's their and working. i do wire it open in the summer. But its working now for winter.

 

I meant a plate that goes under the carb, plumbed into one of the heater core hoses

 

It doesnt hve a heater plate like that, It was a California Truck so maby it never had it ? any ways it starts Iceing within 2 or 3 min of startup so the plae wouldnt do much good for cold start, it might help for driveing but the 2100 doesnt Ice up at all. Is it possibull that the 500cmf on a stock 2bl manifold is getting to much air valosity at off idle this would speed up the air flow and cause the iceing. Dont know but after trying to get this 500 working for over a year im done with it, know anyone thats wants a Holley 2300 500cmf just over a year old ?

 

That's backwards to what would really happen. The 500 would have lower air velocity than a stock carb (somewhere around 350 CFM). Bigger holes, lower air flow, worse throttle response. A 500 is a carb for a hi-po engine and does not belong on a street engine. Carb icing is caused by the air going from sub-sonic to super sonic which causes a air temp drop and the moisture in the air to seperate out and form ice. The water heated spacer would help, because it doesn't take much temp increase to stop the icing. But remember, different equipment, different issues and different problems