Electric Choke
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 475
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What do you mean everything hooked up except the carb?
I put everything back how it use to be. No eelctric choke, etc... It won't even click. Does it look like i fried a fuse or something big like an alt or starter?
For after I get it running, I belive I read somewhere that I can buy a fuse tap, and tap it into the heater fuse on the fuse panel and that should work. That sound right? Should I put another fuse between heater fuse and choke?
I put everything back how it use to be. No eelctric choke, etc... It won't even click. Does it look like i fried a fuse or something big like an alt or starter?
For after I get it running, I belive I read somewhere that I can buy a fuse tap, and tap it into the heater fuse on the fuse panel and that should work. That sound right? Should I put another fuse between heater fuse and choke?
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 1
From: Earth
Originally Posted by BigBody
What do you mean everything hooked up except the carb?
I put everything back how it use to be. No eelctric choke, etc... It won't even click. Does it look like i fried a fuse or something big like an alt or starter?
For after I get it running, I belive I read somewhere that I can buy a fuse tap, and tap it into the heater fuse on the fuse panel and that should work. That sound right? Should I put another fuse between heater fuse and choke?
I put everything back how it use to be. No eelctric choke, etc... It won't even click. Does it look like i fried a fuse or something big like an alt or starter?
For after I get it running, I belive I read somewhere that I can buy a fuse tap, and tap it into the heater fuse on the fuse panel and that should work. That sound right? Should I put another fuse between heater fuse and choke?
It won't even click. Does it look like i fried a fuse or something big like an alt or starter? Possibly, but I don't know if the starter is a fused circuit for that year of truck. It could be the starter relay, I'm not really sure. However, check all your wiring and fuses then go from there.
For after I get it running, I belive I read somewhere that I can buy a fuse tap, and tap it into the heater fuse on the fuse panel and that should work. That sound right? Should I put another fuse between heater fuse and choke? I can't help with this, sorry. I went with a wiring loom that has a dedicated e-choke circuit that is hot only when the key is on, I believe.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
That STATOR terminal on the alternator has a output of 6.95 to 7.07 volts which was ok with Ford's early electric chokes in the 60's. Todays replacement carbs / electric chokes require 12 volts to function properly. They only draw 4 1/2 to 6 amps so a hot on ignition on terminals at the fuse box will work, just add a 10 amp fuse in line. The bad thing with this setup is if ignitions on a cold motor but not started the choke will open as well the heating element overheats because the vacuum passage isn't pulling air to cool the element. What I did was add a 6 volt relay that energizes from the stator terminal, that controls 12 volt power to the electric choke. This way the choke only recieves power when the motors running.
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 1
From: Earth
Originally Posted by BigBody
Got the truck running. But seems to me there is no good way to hook up the electric choke on aftermarket carbs.
Kyle
Kyle
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,416
Likes: 4
From: PacNW
Run a wire from the accessory terminal on the fuse panel to the electric choke. It should be a switched 12V source which has a 10A fuse. I did it on my 70 XL when I installed the new BG carb. It works fine. You can either run it through the hole in the firewall that the rest of the wires run through or as in my case find an unused plugged hole. I bought a new grommet and some black corrugated loom cover and it looks factory.
