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Well I installed a thermostat to work with the operation of my glow plug relay. I used an old hot water tank thermostat I had laying around. Ran a wire from the g/p relay to the thermostat and from the thermostat to the wire that would normally connect to the relay. Set the unit atop of my HPOP and it just sits there and is held in place when I replace the plastic cover. The thermostat is set to its lowest setting - probably around 110 F. I had a couple of short runs this morning and the g/p's cycled as normal. After that they never cycled for the rest of the day.
I use a ford starter solinoid for my g/p relay so the wire I used is the wire without the stripe. My setup is opposite of the usual g/p relay so normally it would be the wire closest to the firewall that would be operated by the PCM.
My truck is a 96 - 7.3
I took a picture but I don't think I can post attachments at this time. I was going to install a thermostat from and old baseboard heater but the one i used was perfect for the install I wanted to do.
what happens if the glow plugs are left on all the time? i know it sounds stupid but just wondering
They are sort of self limiting like an oven element.
But consider that the less "on time" that they have to endure will greatly increast thier service life.
Wow, now that I have seen the picture, the idea's even more brillant! That this is small enough to go anywhere.
So you basically got a thermostat for a hot water heater and power in one end and power out the other end?
Not knowing a whole heckuvalot about switches......does the thermostat care that's it's now operating a 12VDC system instead of the 220VAC it used to run?
That is a very cool idea. Cycles the plugs when cold and no other time, and nothing to remember or worry about. Should make the plugs last a very long time with that set up.
Not knowing a whole heckuvalot about switches......does the thermostat care that's it's now operating a 12VDC system instead of the 220VAC it used to run?
Probably not. If the thermostat was designed for switching 220VAC, the switch contacts should be rated for at least that power level. Switching 12VDC would be a lot less power, therefore the switch contacts should last a very long time. I would be more concerned about how the thermostat held up in the heat of the engine compartment, but it appears to be well encapsulated.
If heat is a concern, it could be mounted anywhere using longer wires. I'm going to try it. I have some down time in a week or two, so I have to change the oil etc. and I'll try it then.
If heat is a concern, it could be mounted anywhere using longer wires. I'm going to try it. I have some down time in a week or two, so I have to change the oil etc. and I'll try it then.
You don't want to mount it anywhere but on top of the engine like the original idea pictures. The purpose of this mod is to only run the glow plugs when the engine is cold. If you mount it remote than it has no way of knowing if the engine is hot or cold.
Probably not. If the thermostat was designed for switching 220VAC, the switch contacts should be rated for at least that power level. Switching 12VDC would be a lot less power, therefore the switch contacts should last a very long time. I would be more concerned about how the thermostat held up in the heat of the engine compartment, but it appears to be well encapsulated.
GarryR, this is a very cool idea.
Remember when volts go down, amps have to go up to get the same amount of energy through. That t-stat is pretty small as it's designed to operate at 220 volts. It is a great idea and I'm pretty sure that it will hold up if all it's being asked to do is to cycle the power for the relay.
How does the thermostat work when it is on the hot water heater? I don't know much about plumbing. It must be hooked to the element somehow to know the temp of the water. If that is the case, could it be somehow hooked to the engine temp gauge? Actually if it works fine just sitting there, I guess there is not reason to get complicated. Just curious.
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