Bendix to Saginaw
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From: NorCA
Bendix to Saginaw
Changing steering box/column and would like some ideas on how to lift the engine for the new motor mount. My plan is to place a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan, unbolt the mount rubber pad on the driver's side and lift with two floor jacks, just enought to clear the old mount and install the new. I'm not crazy about putting it under the pan, but I'm really not sure where else to go and I don't have an engine hoist available. Thanks all in advance!
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From: alaska
if you use about a one foot square piece of 3/4" plywood in between the 2/4 you will spread the weight more , you might wind up loosening both mounts ,but it will work either way. been there and done that, bob
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From: Utah
I would only add, never, and I repeat never trust any hydraulic jack to hold the weight when you put your hands in there, or crawl under a vehicle. Sooner or later you or someone else will pay the ultimate price if you do. Use some blocks to wedge between the frame and pan so if it does leak off, you do not loose a hand.
Also if you have a mid to full capacity truck or car, never trust those Mickey Mouse car stands from anyone. Invest in your safety and get a decent set of Car Stands.
Also if you have a mid to full capacity truck or car, never trust those Mickey Mouse car stands from anyone. Invest in your safety and get a decent set of Car Stands.
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From: NorCA
Great idea!
I cranked it up on my 2 ton (Kragan junk) floor jack today, took one look and figured there is no way I'm sticking my hand anywhere near under that! So, I talked the wife and I'm off to buy a new "real" floor jack tomorrow. I've got two sets of top-of-the-line stands and piece of @#*@ jack...doesn't make sense to me either.
I cranked it up on my 2 ton (Kragan junk) floor jack today, took one look and figured there is no way I'm sticking my hand anywhere near under that! So, I talked the wife and I'm off to buy a new "real" floor jack tomorrow. I've got two sets of top-of-the-line stands and piece of @#*@ jack...doesn't make sense to me either.
Last edited by Chromepro; Dec 29, 2005 at 10:06 PM.
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From: NorCA
Well...after purchasing a very nice professional three ton jack, I still can't seem to get the jack in a position where I feel safe. I would not want to put all that pressure on the damper, not to mention it could turn. Since my truck is lowered, I couldn't get it to clear the I-beams from the front and steering linkage from the back. Also, it seemed a little too far back for all that forward weight. Anyone have a good idea?
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From: Utah
This is one of those have to see it to be sure, but using a 4X4 block, can you get enough room to lift it from the pan, past the Steering linkage. You may have to drop the linkage from the sounds of it. As long as you do not turn the ends on the linkage, the alignment should be fine.
You are right about the Harmonic Dampener, it could turn and cause real problems. Better safe then sorry.
You are right about the Harmonic Dampener, it could turn and cause real problems. Better safe then sorry.
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Fleet Owner
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From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Originally Posted by Chromepro
Well...after purchasing a very nice professional three ton jack, I still can't seem to get the jack in a position where I feel safe. I would not want to put all that pressure on the damper, not to mention it could turn. Since my truck is lowered, I couldn't get it to clear the I-beams from the front and steering linkage from the back. Also, it seemed a little too far back for all that forward weight. Anyone have a good idea?
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From: NorCA
Stands and a 2x12 worked! I did remove the top inside perch mount nut on the side I was exchanging and left the other side lose to the bottom of the bolt to allow for seperation movement. I also turned the jack around and came at the pan from the rear heading forward, which allowed me to clear the steering linkage also. Thanks for the assistance!!
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