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Agree with Chrono4 -- the size/weight of the 5th wheel dictates the size requirements of the hitch. For example, we have a PullRite Super20.5 which is used to pull our Jayco which weighs in around 16K. You want to give yourself a little cushion.
You can attack the problem from different angles. Since you already know the truck, you can work off the maximum weight you can pull for the truck and then work backwards to determine the maximum size hitch you'll need to pull the maximum allowable weight and remain within your maximum combined vehicle weight.
Just a thought as to how to approach the situation....
not so much to do with the ratio, but the rating. i was just saying, its nice to know that the hitch wont be the weak link, and youve got a buffer there.
not so much to do with the ratio, but the rating. i was just saying, its nice to know that the hitch wont be the weak link, and youve got a buffer there.
Bull too, rating on paper means little if you do not have the axle ratio and engine comb to back it up. A rating will not get you up a hill or into a strong headwind or up a mountain pass but a engine and axle ratio matched to the load and use will.
If it is for a Future travel trailer and you are going to buy it from a dealer, you can usually talk them into including the hitch in the package deal, along with installation of the hitch. There is a huge markup on these trailer and if one is patient enough and willing to do a little bargening, you might be surprised as to how far they will bend. But I'd agree, axle ratio and engine are probably the most critical points. If you are 3.73, I would guess you are, then it will take more power lower in the rpm range then say if you had 4.11 or higher. In the end, go for the 20K in the event you want a larger trailer down the road,you wont need to get a new hitch as well. Good luck shopping and Happy RVing in the new year.
It depends a lot on the axle ratio of the truck and where you plan to tow it too.
You are correct snow.. In the SD's with the V10, the tow rating changes with the axle ratio. The SD's are rated higher with 4.30's than with 3.73's
Even the smallest 5th wheel hitch I have seen (15k) is rated higher than what a 250 can tow, so I would concentrate on design requirements, ease of use and functionality.
Here are some things to consider:
Some hitches are permanent mount (yuck! can’t use the bed…), some leave rails in the bed when the hitch is removed (not a bad choice), some just little holes because the locking structure is below deck (nice when the hitch is out, but a pain to put back in because you have to crawl under the truck to secure it).
Then there is 2-way or 4-way tilt. I have a 2-way tilt on the hitch plate (front/back), I don’t like it. If I had to do it again, I would have gotten a 4-way (front/back & left/right).
A 6.8 V10 with a 4.30 axle ratio and stock tires is a tow beast. Not only does the deeper gears give it more towing power from increased mechanical advantage but it also put the engine at (or about at) its torque peak in drive at 65 MPH or so when climbing hills and it really lets it do its best. The V10 does its best wrok between about 3000 and 4500 RPM. Not that it is gutless below that but it really shines in that range. A 3.73 just does not do it justice when doing some serious towing.
I'd say get the system that's rated to handle the maximum GCWR of your truck. I chose the RBW L'il Rocker 15K for the features and ease of installation (install it yourself and save avg. $175). Like mentioned above, if you wait until the trailer purchase the dealer will normally include the proper system in the deal. If you have the system in before trailer purchase, it can become a bottom line bargaining tool in your favor.
If it is for a Future travel trailer and you are going to buy it from a dealer, you can usually talk them into including the hitch in the package deal, along with installation of the hitch. There is a huge markup on these trailer and if one is patient enough and willing to do a little bargening, you might be surprised as to how far they will bend.
I agree here, then the correct hitch would be installed. I got mine as an end of year closeout. They took off $7000 off the MSRP, included the hitch, installed the hitch, installed the brake controller (had an 02 f250 when I bought it) and they installed a second plug in the box. The original price was $24,000 went away with all of it for $17,200
Last edited by bckhntr; Dec 30, 2005 at 10:35 PM.
Reason: typo