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"99 Ranger 2x4 3.0 liter, 75,000 miles
Changed serpentine belt 10.000 miles ago. Now I feel some play in the idler pulley. Should there be any play at all? If no, I'm going to replace it. Never have done this job. Do they sell you a whole pulley or just a bearing or what? I have my sockets ready and a cheater pipe. Just want to know what to expect before I start. Advance Auto Parts is right down the road, so that's who I use.
I would imagine no play whatsoever since the serp does go from the crank to the cam (if I'm not mistaken) and you want complete accuracy in the combustion process. There's not a margin for error with the valves opening/closing and the position of the pistons. Just my opinion.
The idler pulley is used to drive the engine accessorys, but nate is right there should not be any play in the pulley. It will come as a new pulley and bearing.
Dave
Thanks, Dave. I'm going to try to take it off with the belt still on. I seem to get enough slack when pulling the tensioner to get the belt off the pulley.
Changed idler pulley this AM without too much trouble. I used a screwdriver to pry the belt back on the alternator pulley while my daughter moved the tensioner with a cheater pipe over the ratchet handle. When I turned the key, the singing belt was audible but now at a lower decibel level. Back to the parts store I went and got the tensioner pulley. Once it was installed the silence was very satisfying. The two pulleys had been singing a duet. Won't have to do that again.
Billj6, for future reference there should be a provision on the tensioner assembly that allows you to insert a 3/8 drive breaker bar to relieve belt tension and allow for easy belt removal.
Billj6, good to see you got her fixed & just in time for Christmas too, what a nice present, Silence Is GOLDEN!!!! lol
Yup there shouldn't be any play/wobble in the idler or tensioner pulley bearings as you've discovered.
To add to Bills good suggestion about the breaker bar in the tesioners square hole, to relieve it's tension for easier future belt removal, I'd also add, FIRST route the belt over ALL the "walled/lipped pulleys, then make the smooth lipless idler pulley the last one, to slip the back side of the belt onto.
Doing it this way, one will be less likely to damage the belt, because you don't have to PRY it on over a lipped pulley, so it's a MUCH easier task, such that one person can do it easily!!!!
this is such a common problem. if anybody else has this problem i would start with the tensioner first. i started with the belt then the idler and it wound up to be the tensioner as it has with alot of us.
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