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I run B20 occassionally. Only thing you need to do is be prepared to change your fuel filters shortly afterwards. More so if you have a lot of miles. It tends to clean stuff out, which can end up clogging your filters. If you're coming up on a filter change, it may be good to switch 500-1000 miles prior and save yourself the trouble of multiple changes.
I started using it this past spring, at about 25k, and my filter change at 30k was just slightly darker than the prior one.
thanks for the advice, i just bought my first diesel. I put 10 gallons of bio diesel in the other day-thinking its more expensive-it must be better for the engine (like primeum gas) but then my buddy told me i have to have a kit to run bio-diesel. I wasn't to conserned that i put it in my truck cause its still diesel fuel. I was just wondering what the differance was, and if there is an advantage to using it
No Kit required, but I'd ensure you use a blend - 20% or less to start (B20), and get it from a reputable source. I would avoid Johnbob's still out back. Also, it will gell at higher temps than regular diesel, so in cold climates, ensure its a winter diesel blend and/or use some additives.
There is a difference between biodiesel and running your diesel engine on waste veggie oil. A "kit" is needed to run veggie oil, but no conversion is needed to run bio-d. I would think the B20 you bought would be from Crystal Flash. They seem to be one of the main distributors here in Michigan for bio-d. You might want to give them a call to make sure they have it winterized. They probably do since they seem to know their stuff.
The Miejer station on 54th and Clyde Park gets their diesel from Van Mannen oil and they add Power Service to winterize their diesel, and do not use a #1 and #2 blend. Van Mannen also supplies bio-diesel, but I am not sure to which gas stations.
From what I understand, running straight veggie oil (used or virgin) does not work so well on TDI vehicles like our 6.0L's. Bio-d is veggie oil that has gone through a transesterfication process. Transesterfication causes methyl esters and glycerine to be produced. The methyl esters is what you want, not the glycerine. Bio-d supposedly runs great (I have never tried it) and it adds extra lubricity and raises the cetane level. It comes in many different blends like B2, B5, B20, B100, where the number after the "B" identifies the % of methyl esters mixed with petro diesel. So B20 is 20% methyl esters and 80% petro diesel.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by laredo7mma; Dec 22, 2005 at 05:40 PM.
Check with Crystal Flash, I think their website is crystalflash.com, I think their place is on Alpine. But they would be able to tell you who they distribute to. Also if you call Van Manen Oil (vanmanen.com) they will do the same. Or you could always check out www.biodiesel.org, they have a list of retailers.
I live in Allegan and work in GR, I have been tempted to try some B20. I think it is an Amaco station down on D avenue (exit 44 on 131) sells it. It is the station to the east of 131, I am not sure if is an Amaco or not.
I've been useing the B10 for about 10k miles. No problems at all. Seems to run better and gets better mileage than straight petro diesel. Try it at B10 and go from there. Oh yea the exhuast will smell like cherrios.
I currently add ~1/2 gal Soy oil per tank. Gives me something ~= B2. When I visit family in SW Michgan (Decatur) I fill with Crystal Flash -- My cousin keeps a 500 gal tank on the farm for his trucks and tractors. Truck (05 6.0 f250) runs great on the Bio.
Get the Soy oil also from cousin with farm. Bring it back in 5 gal containers. Store in cool corner of garage.
No problem with filters--but then the truck is still quite new.
Later
Kent
His Bro (another cousin in same area--Decatur)) runs Bio in all his equipment.(excavating company)