I have a '93 F-250 7.3L non-turbo.My wait to start light comes on and goes out after about a second. This isn't normal for my truck it was usually 7-10 seconds. I replaced the glow plug controller and am still having the same problem. The truck won't start even after being plugged in all day. Average tempature here is around 15 degrees at night and a little warmer during the day. A little shot of ether and it starts right up, I have only used it once to get the truck home. I heard it does some pretty rough stuff to the engine. Any ideas??

 

ether does no damage to the engine, it just has a very high flash point which does not mix well with very hot glow plugs. BOOM is not the sound you want to hear when you turn the key! If you want answers to your questions without getting questions to your questions, find another site!

 

Sounds like you have a couple of issues,if its not starting with the block heater plugged in then its prolly not working,check the cord on both ends,it may be pulled off the heater.When it is working you should be able to hear it sizziling,sounds sorta like a coffee perk running.A short wait to start light usually means bad glo plugs,test them with a test light,clamp the light to the pos batt post,pull wire off gp and touch the probe to where you removed the wire from the gp.if it lights the gp is good,check them all this way.If any need to be replaced make sure to use only motorcraft/beru brand.Make sure that when you put the new controller on that it recieved a good clean ground(black wire).If you must use ether,turn the key on,wait for a min(for any working gp's to cool down)or dissconnect the power to the gp's,then a quick shot of ether and crank.

 

check full lenght of cord for block heater mine was pinched under the battery & rubbed thru. it also sounds like you have several gp's not working.

 

Thanks guys. Picked up 8 Motorcraft glow plugs today and will give them a try Saturday. I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

This is what I recommend as a proceedure for GP R&R....remove air cleaner if IDI.
To remove/replace gp's get a 3/8" 6 point deep socket and suitable ratchet, 8" piece of gasline hose that will fit on top of gp. Remove gp electrical caps blow or brush clean each area around gp's, lossen gp with socket until it turns freely remove socket and push hose on top, turn out gp. For the one under the injector lines on drivers side you can use a universal joint (hard) or a 3/8 box end wrench then the hose as usual (do not force or bend lines) Test GP's and check tips.
If you have it put (small amount) anti sieze on threads of new gp, you can use hose to start plugs then finish with ratchet to 12 ft/lbs or 1/12th of a turn after bottoming( this is not much torque at all)
If I were you, I would remove all gp's to see what kind they are, if they are not "BERU/Motorcraft" pitch them and buy all 8 new, if they are Beru and test good re install. If some are bad get 8 new and save old ones that are good for backups.
NOTE***If any GP's are hard to remove from hole using the hose ...."STOP" call for assistance and wait for instructions.... DO NOT force the GP to turn out as tips can break off..
PS A big old blanket over the rad helps in laying on the engine.