I've been having starting/running problems in my '51 Panel. It's been sitting for over year. I've replaced the starter drive (broke it while jumping the truck with a 12v), battery, fuel pump, fuel filter, and put in a rebuilt carburetor.

The truck does want to start and starts with some spray of starting fluid in the carburetor. However, it dies once the starting fluid has dissolved. It seems like it wants to run on its own, but can't. I can feel it wanting to run, but it can't. It's like the little engine that could. I can feel that I'm close, but don't know what the problem could be.

The fuel pump is full and the fuel filter is clean and half full. Any ideas what else I should look at? Anything that I could try further? Should I put in one of those pressure regulators on the fuel line? Would that help? I can't figure out what the problem is.



Please help. I want to have at least one running truck.

Ilya

 

Sounds like something's stopped up in the carb. My rebuilt carb had a float stuck in the up position, and wouldn't let any gas in. pull the top off and take a look.

 

If you have the stock Holley/Ford 94, it is real common for the emulsion tubes (dispersion tubes? ) to get closed off due to varnish and crud. They are the ones alongside the throttle bores in wells, and the outer tubes have very tiny little holes drilled in them. Get a manual and look at a cross section. They need to be cleaned real well, get in between the two concentric tubes. Clean the whole carb thoroughly while you're at it. Modern gas is really nasty and goes bad quickly.

You shouldn't need a regulator with a stock fuel pump.

 

I had the Holly/Ford 94 carb professionally rebuilt. Don't know why the emulsion tubes would still be closed. Unless I need to adjust the carb. I noticed that there are two large screws in the front of the carb and two smaller screws (with springs) in the rear of the carb. What are they for? Should I try to adjust them somehow?

Why does the truck run when the starting fluid is in it, but doesn't run on it's own? Where is the entry point of gasoline from the fuel pump into the carburetor? I'm thinking that is where the problem is.

I'm off next week and would really like to get the truck running.

Thanks, Ilya

 

The two big screws in the front of the carb will drain the bowl and allow access to the jets using a special wrench or just the right sized screw driver. The small screws and springs on the back adjust your idle circuit, generally to get it running you turn those in all the way (carefully, turn too hard you might damage the needle end of them), and back out 1 and 1/4 turns. After it runs you can adjust them as needed. But that shouldn't keep it from running if you are trying to work the throttle starting it since that would bypass the idle circuit at open throttle.

You should be able to see the fuel line run from the pump to the front left of the carb, and just inside that point will be where the float works the needle valve, which could be closed all the way not letting any fuel into the carb. Try unscrewing one of those two big screws on the front and see if you get gas running out, if not, that needle valve is either stuck or the float is not adjusted properly and is keeping the needle closed/up into the seat. You should get a good handful of gas to come out so put something to catch it. If gas does come out, then that may not be the problem.

I had trouble one time after a rebuild getting it to start, it wanted to start but popped and backfired, and it was the timing too slow. Adjusted it a little enough that it started and ran enough to get the timing light to fire and then worked the kinks out from there.

You shouldn't need a pressure regulator with the stock pump. Are you sure the pump is pumping? You can verify by unscrewing the fuel line at the carb and holding a catch can under it while cranking the motor to see if it's spurting fuel to the carb. If so, it's got to be something like the needle valve sticking closed. If it runs on the starting fluid but dies after it's gone, it's gotta be fuel starvation I'd think.

 

The timing might be off as well. When I tried to start it yesterday, it ran for a few seconds longer than normal and then made a loud pop when I pressed on the throttle. It was very loud. Made my ears ring for a few minutes.

I'll have to try the timing after I figure out the carburetor issue.

Ilya

 

When you look down the throat of the carb and work the throttle linkage can you see it spraying any fuel into the throat?? It sounds like either fuel is not getting to the carb or the carb itself is plugged up.

Good luck with it
Bobby

 

Ilya, if it backfired, or popped thorugh the intake you might want to check the power valve it could have blown it. Is that fresh gas in the filter bowl ?? it kinda looks a little old to me.

Rod

 

Ilya, it doesn't look like there's much gas in the plastic filter. When it's running, check to see if there are bubbles in the flow. Make sure all connections to the tank have new hose and tight connections. If air is getting into the system it can't pull gas thru. Pinholes in the metal lines will do it also. There is a vented cap on the tank isn't there?

Remove the top cover from the carb while it's bolted on the intake. If there is no gas in the bowl the problem is upstream. If it is half-full of gas then the problem is downstream.

Lots of good suggestions.

 

It looks like there is two filters; a small metal one screwed into the pump and also the clear plastic one. Are both really neccessary? Maybe too much resistance or is the small metal one plugged? Is the arrow on the clear plastic filter pointing the right way i.e. direction of flow?

 

I did notice that the rubber hose connecting from the fuel filter to the fuel pump has been overtightened by the hose clamp. I'll change out the hose. I have a "newer" style lockable gas cap. When you say the "top cover (of) the carb", do you mean the top half of the carb? I'll have to check the carb bowl.

Also, when it does run for a few seconds and dies, I can see the gas flowing into the fuel filter in spurts. Yes, the fuel filter is on the correct way.

The gas in the fuel tank is a mixture of old and new. There is about 5 gallons of new gas mixed in with about the same amount of old gas that's been sitting for about a year.

Ilya

 

"When you say the "top cover (of) the carb", do you mean the top half of the carb? "

Yes. There are 5 screws that hold it on. Some linkage will have to be disconnected.

"I can see the gas flowing into the fuel filter in spurts. "

It should be pretty steady rather in spurts - sounds like it could be an air leak. One other possibility I'm still trying to figure out was something I ran into with my 52 that I got running this summer........I had to prime the pump before it would run. Actually fill the pump with gas via the hose and then it would fire up.

 

The pump glass bowl is full of gas. Is there something else I should do to "prime" the pump? How would I "prime" the pump?

Thanks, Ilya

 

I'm with Bobby on this one, I would start with the accelerator pump and work from there. On some carbs it is easy to get the actuator on the wrong side of the pump lever

 

The acellerator pump shouldn't keep it from starting, should it? Just idle to run transition. But it is a good thing to look at to verify you have fuel in the carb bowl. I/e, look in the bores, open the throttle and see if fuel squirts, pretty sure it was mentioned above.

Since it seems like it's a fuel issue, I'd refrain from anymore starting fluid.