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won't turn over...troubleshooting help please

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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 03:57 PM
  #1  
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won't turn over...troubleshooting help please

my truck is doing all sorts of wacking things...when i turn key the glow plug controller is either clicking like mad or doing nothing. and the "jump the solenoid with the screwdriver" is not doing anything but an occasional click. HELP guys! I need some professional hill billy troubleshooting here! i just replaced the key and cyclinder in the column but it stall has a ton of wierd play and i can giggle it to make the power flicker on and off.

does anyone know what the 4 wires under the key cyclinder do? the colors are:

yellow and blue striped
blue and black striped
black
black with purple little marks

the black one with purple little marks has a plastic piece on the end and its just dangling there...it has a tiny little metal tab that looks like some sort terminal...does it go in the cylinder somewhere. it looks like it clicks in somewhere...arggg! thanks for spending the time to read this-Nick in ohio

oh, i have a 93 f 350 with 7.3 non turbo
 
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 06:41 PM
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sounds to me like you have a few issues. There should be a block farther down the column that the key switch controls via push rod (I may be wrong on this, I hope somebody backs me up here). The other issue is sounds like you got some bad glowplugs. Test each one individually, with an ohm meter, with the wire disconnected. Each one should read some resistance. A bad one will read open or dead short. Replace them with Motorcraft/Geru glowplugs only. I dont care what the kid says at the autoparts store, Autolite is not the same glowplug. Any other glowplug may fail in a very unfortunate way, usually resulting in pulling the head or replacing parts, like pistons, valves, etc. After the plugs are changed, make sure the controlls is putting out power, I used a test light and watched it sync closly with the WTS light in the dash. My controller had a crack in it and allowed corrosion inside and also had a corroded lead wire on it. Replaced them and its works exactly like its supposed to. The WTS light will come on from 5 to 15 seconds, depending upon the temperature of the motor.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 07:39 PM
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There are two starter solenoids on the 7.3 diesel engine.
One on the inner fender passenger side and one mounted on the starter.

The feedback glow plug system will do very strange things with more than two glow plugs burnt out.
An easy check is to use an automotive test light to test them.
Hook the ground clip to the positive battery terminal.
Remove the connector from a glow plug and touch the connector on the glow plug with the tip of the tester. If the light lights, the glow plug is good. If the light does not light, the glow plug is bad. Test the rest of the plugs the same way. The only thing you have to watch is that you are not touching something other than the glow plug connector with the tip of the tester.
The ohm meter is also a good test, but the resistance is so close to a short .5 to 1.5 ohm's that a cheap meter will probably read dead short.

The actual electrical switch for the key action is located down under the dash on top of the steering column. You must have issues down there as well.

As for the wires, I don't have a 93 wiring manual. On my 86 the emergency flasher switch is located under the steering column lower than the key but closer to the steering wheel. Is yours down there also?

Have you had the batteries load tested? If they are low the engine will not turn over. They should both be rated at 850 amps cold cranking power or more.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 08:45 PM
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thank you!

thanks a lot jeff and dave! you have given me a great starting point to start working on the veg mobile (did i mention that i burn veggy oil)? Its just so darned cold and i don't have a garage that is tall enough for the truck. i will let you know how it goes. Oh, by the way, I tried to jump the solenoid on the starter and nothing. well, actually just a bunch of sparks and that was it. do u think there is a good chance that the starter is frozen? thanks again -Nick
 
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 08:53 PM
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part #5

is this the switch you were talking about? does the turning of the key actually activate this switch?

http://www.parts.com/partlocator/ind...=5&catalogid=2

also, r u familiar with the 4 wires that run up the column....i have a black one with purple notches/marks on it flopping around. it looks like something attached to the key cylinder but i am just guessing from the shape of it and the little metal terminal sticking out of the plastic...it looks like one of the narrow metal terminals on the side of the key cylinder...maybe a 1/16 inch wide and 1/4 long.
thanks-Nick
 
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 09:58 PM
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You have a major power loss if you can't do the "screwdriver jump the solenoid" trick .It should at least turn over even without the ignition switch .
1. Test the batteries
2. Check battery and ground connections

The weird play sounds like the actuator in the steering column . This is a common problem .
 
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 10:07 PM
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i guess i will have to crawl under there and look at that actuator.

I have a feeling that one problem snowballed and caused all these others...what would be your guess (anyone) as to what started it..if that is an ok assumption to make. i am just thinking that if i fix one of the problems but not the source the components down the line of f' ups will keep breaking. the switch leading to electrical shorts?
thanks-Nick
 
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 10:10 PM
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mine used to click like crazy. i swapped out the GP's and it went away, cycles fine.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 10:15 PM
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From: mooringsport louisiana
Have you checked your batteries ?

The actuator is inside the steering column . To get to it you have to remove the steering wheel and the turn signal switch .
This will not it from turning over using the screwdriver jump solenoid method .
I think you should tackle the power problem first .
 
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 10:16 PM
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This will not keep it from turning over using the screwdriver...lol.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 10:45 PM
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If you are burning veggie oil do you have to crank it a lot to get it started?
The starters are extremely sensitive to lots of cranking, anything over 15 seconds is a lot. Then it needs a 2 minute cool down period before the next 15 second try.
If your temps in Ohio are like they are here in WV I bet a lot of your problem is from the veggie oil.

When you switch tanks to purge the fuel system from veggie to diesel so you can cold start it all the veggie oil in the fuel system winds up in your diesel tank. Yes it may be only a pint or two each time, but it does add up. Veggie oil and cold weather do not mix very well.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 02:13 AM
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You do not mention trans type, auto has a clutch bypass, manual requires you press the clutch to start.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 05:45 AM
  #13  
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My 6.9 did the exact same thing jumped starer with screwdriver nothing but small spark after a week of dicken with it i replaced the starter been fine ever since.get new style starter off e bay 134.00 works awesome.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 02:42 PM
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she's running!

i got her running! cleaned the battery terminals, changed two dead spark plugs and hooked up that wierd dangling wire on the outside of the key cylinder housing. i think that was the key...it continued to clicked like mad even after the new glow plugs and the cleaning. does anyone know what that thing is? tiny little metal terminal that touches the outside of the slide in key cylinder....but actually mounts on the outside of the metal housing...black plastic clippy thing not wider than 1/2". thanks to all who helped me out with this! -Nick
 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 04:35 PM
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that little clip wire thingie on the side of the key cylinder should be your
yo stupid, you left the keys in the ignition again! chime actuator

i have all mine disconnected. i don't need some chime to tell me i left the keys in it. i am stupid enough to keep a spare door key in my wallet.
 

Last edited by tjc transport; Dec 21, 2005 at 04:37 PM.
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