Looking for the details to swap the 4spd spur gear transmission from a 1950 F3 with a T-5 or other late model manual transmission. Also considering changing the rear end gears for better cruising performance. Truck is in very good original condition, just looking to improve the driving experience...Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks

 

Go to flat-o.com for info on the T-5

 

Go to Bendtsen's transmisions adapter's. They have what you need to.

 

Here is a good discussion/how-to

http://www.flatheadv8.org/t5-swap.htm

 

I'm almost finished getting all the pieces together to install a 89 S-10 T5 in my 51 F1 226 Flathead. The parts I have put together are; adaptor Plate, I purchased mine from Dwight Bond [second_chance@charter.net] for $125.00 including shipping. A great deal I feel, because the material locally in my area runs $85.00 then it's off to the machine shop. I will use the Hogshead or small bell off the truck 4-speed trans. I have installed new brass bushings and a new cross shaft. Next I purchased a pilot bushing from Flat-O-Products, I just perfer a bushing over the bearing (personal perference) it was around $19.00. For the clutch I plan to use the S-10 disc with a 10" Truck pressure plate with the orginal throwout bearing. I purchased a brass sleeve from Motion Industries to fit the ID of the bearing and the OD of the trans. (I can get the part number if anyone needs it) The Flathead 6 Flywheel needs to be opened up a little at the center because the pressure plate spring area will rub the flywheel face. I don't see any problem at this point with the flywheel bolts hitting the springs, at least on my flywheel. If it does I will probably purchase thinner head thickness bolts. That's a problem I will have to address at installiation time. My reasearch leads me to believe the u-joints on the truck and the T5 yoke are the same diameter, so all that will need to be done there is to have the driveshaft shortened. I will be installing a 9" rearend at the same time to avoid having to modify the shaft twice. The only other hurdle I see in this swap will be with the speedometer the 89 T5 has the electronic sending unit. I plan to purchase an electronic speedometer from VDO to replace my orginal. So I think that's about all I need to complete the conversion when my garage warms up a little.

Hope this information helps
Rod
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Rod

Before we all forget, could you post the part number for the sleeve from Motion Industries?

Thanks

Dick

 

Thanks for reminding me it cost me $4.33
1 00266 A 28447 Motion Industries www.motionindustries.com
EP2228-32 Sintered Bronze Brg
Bronz & Sleeve Brgs

I think it will work out great you have to press it into the Throwout housing or use a vise. The bushing is about 3/4" longer than the housing, I haven't cut it down yet I'm wondering if it will work as is and give a little more surface area. Anybody have any thoughts after purchase let me know please. And don't forget to hook up the return spring on the throwout housing like on the orginal 4 speed it keeps the throwout bearing back againist the forks as it won't return on it's own it will ride againist the pressure plate fingers.
I will lay everything out next week and get some pictures to post in my gallery.


Hope this information helps
Rod

 

I have posted some pictures of my S10 install in my 51 F1 226 in my gallery

 

I get an "error!" every time I click on one of the pics in 51ford fan's gallery. Is it just me?

 

I got a error to. I can look at all your pics besides the trans swap and the split manifold for the 226. I'll keep trying to look b/c I really want to see that manifold.

 

I have just completed the installiation of the S10 5 speed and 3.23 9" 69 Ford truck rearend in my 51 F1. I can't believe what a difference it has made in the performance of the F1. I think the 226 Flathead 6 with it's long stroke is just perfect for the S10 5 speed trans, to bad the weren't around in 51 to have been a factory installation.

Rod
51 Ford F1
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Rod,
How was the the fit for the driveshaft? Did you have to cut the bushing inside of the throwout bearing down? How about the S-10 pressure plate I see you went with the 10 inch is that the factory size for an S-10 or did you have to get a specific year? Also what did you do to the T-5 shifter? I was thinking of cutting the T-5 shifter down to a knub, doing the same to the 1950 truck transmission and welding the 1950 truck shifter on the T-5. What about the bracket for the bolting up of the transmission tailhousing to the two sides of what is left of the truck crossmember? I think this post should be added to the tech articles and Rod should give us pictures with the write up in the article. Along the lines of what he has in his gallery. I found it very helpfull and will be ordering the adapter in the next few days. The adapter was one part that has been slowing me down didn't want to try and make one yet.

 

51 Ford Fan, Have you driven the truck yet? I'm curious how that's going to work out with both OD 5th (either .86 or .73) and a 3.23 axle. You'll be at either 2.32 or 2.77 overall gearing, which is mighty steep! What size tires are you running (diameter)? Let us know how that works out.

Chris, I am not clear on whether the S-10 shifter assembly is the same as the Mustang style World Class T-5's, as far as the internal portions, but I'd bet it is. In which case the Mustangs used a bolt-on lever, which could be an advantage (or not), it would be easier to unbolt that long lever than to lift the floor plate all the way over it. The stock Mustang shifters are being thrown away by all the people converting them to short-throw shifters, should be easy to find one cheap.

 

The driveshaft measured out to 50" exactly, I made a poor choice on picking one out in the junk yard though. The stock shaft has a splined shaft on the front so I had to find another shaft to get the front section off of. I found a shaft that was the perfect length and it was marked 68 Bronco II. I took it to the driveline shop and it turned out to be a Toyota shaft with metric size u-joints. It couldn't be converted to fit the S10 yoke, so back to the junk yard I went. The shaft I decided on was an S10 two wheel drive unit at 53 inches. It had to be shortened three inches and needed a conversion joint from the S10 shaft to the 9" rearend it cost me $39.00. The driveshaft work was the biggest single ticket item of the project at $218.00 from the driveline shop plus $30.00 for the shaft from the wrecking yard. Looking back I wish I had taken the Ford truck shaft I found at the junk yard, and had the rear joint section of it put on the front my F1 shaft as that would have saved me from having to purchase the conversion joint.
I did cut the bronze bushing down to the same length as the bushing because I was afraid it might wind up hitting the disc.
The 10" pressure plate was a unit that was on a 226 I purchased for parts. And the S10 disc (almost new) is an 89 unit that came with the trans. I did purchase new Flywheel bolts with the thin heads to be sure the springs wouldn't rub them. I had to open up the center of the flywheel a little to make sure the springs wouldn't rub. I used the Red Threadlocker on them with 80lbs torque.
I took 1/4"X2" flatbar and went from frame outside to outside of the frame for the mount. I didn't like the looks of the stock single stud mount and purchased one of those two stud red plastic units from the local speed shop.
For the shifter it had to be bent up a little because it hit the seat in 2nd gear. I tried notching the front and bending to but it broke apart while I was attempting to bend it and I welded it back together. I thought about putting the stock arm on it but I think the added length would have increased the travel too much. I think I will eventually purchase one of those short throw units then grind a flat on the side of the stock arm and bolt/weld it on and use that. But for now the stock unit is 500% better that what I had before and that is no worry at all.

 

I jus took out the original tranny out of my '48 F-5 and bolted in a T-98 fit in the crossmember mount too.
That and an Eaton 2-sp, 8forward and 2 reverse!