Changing right side u-joints in TTB
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Changing right side u-joints in TTB
I need to replace both U-joints on the right side of my TTB in an 88 F-250.
Just wondering what is involved. I am assuming i have to dissasemble the the hub, remove ball joint and tie rod end. How do the shafts come out??
THANKS
Adam
Just wondering what is involved. I am assuming i have to dissasemble the the hub, remove ball joint and tie rod end. How do the shafts come out??
THANKS
Adam
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,324
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From: Michigan
If it's like the d44 in my 95f150. Remove the lockout hub, rotor and hub assembly, then spindle. You need to do this on both sides. On the left, you can just pull the shaft out of the diff. On the pass side, you need to seperate the axle shaft at the slip joint. You can now replace the u-joints on both outer axleshafts. If you need to replace the inner u-joint on the pass side, this is where it gets fun. You need to drop the carrier in order to remove the inner shaft from the diff. It is held in place with a clip or bolt in style. The carrier is quite heavy so you may want a lift or some extra help lifting back into truck. You might as well replace the wheel bearings and diff oil seals and anything else that may look worn. This is not a real easy job, maybe you will only have to replace the outer u-joint. Let me know if you need any more help.
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Nope, inner and outer on the pass side. When you say drop the carrier, you are talking about the carrier for the ring gear in the diff??. The C-clip needs to be removed in order to get the shaft out?
Also, did you leave the steering knuckle on and pull the safts out through it?
I bought the truck in Nov 02. At the time, a shop where I have some work done told me that the inner was on it's way, but to leave it until it was shot because it was a job. Well that time is here.
Also, did you leave the steering knuckle on and pull the safts out through it?
I bought the truck in Nov 02. At the time, a shop where I have some work done told me that the inner was on it's way, but to leave it until it was shot because it was a job. Well that time is here.
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From: Michigan
You can leave the knuckles on but need to remove the spindles. The hole is large enough to pull the u-joint thru there. Yes the carrier is where the ring and pinion are. On mine there was a c-clip that holds the inner shaft in the diff. Actually that clip had come off because my slip-joint was rusted together. That is the reason I needed to do this job. Some inner shafts are held in by bolts. Since you need to pull the left shaft to remove the carrier, you may as well replace that joint while your at it. Get yourself a service manual as well. Good luck. Post back with more questions.
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it's actually the diff housing that needs to be dropped off the traction beam(axle), but it's not really necessary unless you have a clip retained axle. if it's a bolt retained you can get the plate off with the diff still attached to the traction beam. on my '80 F-150, I just used a C clamp and some sockets to replace the inner Ujoint. did it right in the truck, with minimal cussing. a socket smaller than the bearing cap on the Ujoint, and one bigger. put the sockets and c-clamp together, and tighten. itlll push the cap against the trunion and push the other cap out of the yoke. then remove it with pliers, do the same for the other side, then the same for the other yoke. when you install the new Ujoints, leave the sockets aside and just use the clamp. make sure the internal locking retainer rings engage, as otherwise the bearing caps will fly off when the axle is turning at high speeds.
Last edited by BuddyFord; Dec 22, 2005 at 02:22 AM.
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From: Michigan
That's a good idea to replace the u-joint while still in the diff. Too bad my problem at the time was that the c-clip had come off the shaft and was moving in and out of the diff. So I had to remove the diff anyways. Learn something new every day.
