99 F250 Power window help needed
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From: Fairmount, Ont.
99 F250 Power window help needed
My 99 F250 R/C passenger side power window quit today. It had been "slow" in the past, but because it was my passenger side, I just never used it much. Today, Mom and the kids headed out into town only to get to the bottom of the lane way, turn around and come back. The daughter had rolled the window down to talk to a neighbor and it would not go back up. I have the door panel off, the interior weatherstripping off and a tarp over the window. I need help with a couple of things. The fuse is fine, the driver's side works okay, just not the passenger side from either switch. Does anyone have a schematic of the switch, or experience with replacing the window motor? What wire carries power to the window? Can I jumper the switch contacts to get the window up? How do I replace the motor? I tried searching but could not come up with any answers (unless I just didn't look hard enough). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: penn twp.
Instead of just replacing the motor try lubricating the arms and sliders first. It sonds like to me that maybe the arms are binding from lack of use. I'd try some PB Blaster. And if that works then lube it 1 every six months or so with wd40 or some white lithium grease. The reasone I suggest the blaster first is it is a much better penetrant that wd40.
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From: Fairmount, Ont.
Thanks. I haven't quite got to that stage yet because I amworking outside and it is a ittle nippy these days. My daughter said the window went down no problem, but just wouldn't come bak up. Is there only one relay for both power windows?
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I have not looked at the wiring on these trucks but in the past on other trucks there are two wires to the motor, the switch reverses the current. Pushing down on the switch one wire should be hot and one ground, when you push up the oposite wire should be hot and the other ground. Hope this helps.
Daniel
Daniel
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From: Fairmount, Ont.
Daniel,
There are a total of seven wires on the switch. I can't find power on any of them, but that's probably more to do with the fact that I can't hold the two multi meter leads, operate the switch, and hold the door open all at the same time. I am going to have to wait until Wednesday before I can get back to it. Thanks for the reply.
There are a total of seven wires on the switch. I can't find power on any of them, but that's probably more to do with the fact that I can't hold the two multi meter leads, operate the switch, and hold the door open all at the same time. I am going to have to wait until Wednesday before I can get back to it. Thanks for the reply.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Millersville, MD
I found on my old 92 that it was always the switches that were bad....I kept a few of them as spares in the glove box. Don't know about the 99, but could change a 92 PW switch in about 5 minutes.
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My 2001 did the exact same thing. Slow and then No go. It was the motor, not switch or relay. $250 at the dealers.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Wichita, KS
You may also want to check out the window regulator, my 01 f150 did the same thing on the passenger side had to replace the regulator and everything. Ok didn't have to but didn't want to risk the chance.
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Mine is the same way, very slow if any movement at all. Here's my story.
I had to take the door completely apart to get to the motor/arm assembly. Maybe there's an easier way, but I had to remove mirror, window glass, interior panel, the rubber trim, window seal, etc, etc. Once I had it in my hand, I plugged it back in, and viola it works nice and fast. Greased everything and put it all back together. This process took a couple of hours - mainly because I didn't know how to dissemble everything. I even tried to realign the glass in the tracks, because it didn't want to go up or down by hand very easy. Still didn't get that very good (window still hard to move by hand). Now it's just as bad if not worse. Maybe it's the window seal - mine seems very stiff.
It's also cold here, so it'll definately be a heated garage day for me. Commando is about right on the price. So I'll probably be living with it until I get the extra gingle.
I had to take the door completely apart to get to the motor/arm assembly. Maybe there's an easier way, but I had to remove mirror, window glass, interior panel, the rubber trim, window seal, etc, etc. Once I had it in my hand, I plugged it back in, and viola it works nice and fast. Greased everything and put it all back together. This process took a couple of hours - mainly because I didn't know how to dissemble everything. I even tried to realign the glass in the tracks, because it didn't want to go up or down by hand very easy. Still didn't get that very good (window still hard to move by hand). Now it's just as bad if not worse. Maybe it's the window seal - mine seems very stiff.
It's also cold here, so it'll definately be a heated garage day for me. Commando is about right on the price. So I'll probably be living with it until I get the extra gingle.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Lowell, MA
I had a similar problem in my drivers side door. It turned out to be the motor. When I was troubleshooting it, I noticed that the motor was getting really hot. I think that if the motor is not getting hot, it is likely not getting power. If it is getting hot, replace it. That at least gives you a direction to go in your troubleshooting.
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From: Fairmount, Ont.
Thanks for all the tips and help. It had warmed up enough outside yesterday to let me do some trouble shooting. I have it traced to a wiring break, but I havent found it yet. I am guessing somewhere in the door passages and I am willing to guess that it is probably on the driver's side. The white/yellow wire is open from side to side, and I can't get a ground on the passenger side switch. I ran power straight to the motor and the window went up s l o w l y , but it still went up, so the motor works. Again, thanks for all the help. Merry Christmas to all
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Joined: Jul 2004
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Our previous truck was a 99 F250 PSD and we had the same problem. Window would lag going up or down and make grinding noises when it did, and it eventually quit. We also lubed the tracks etc before the motor gave out all together but it didn't help.
Picked up a new motor from the local Ford dealership and it was a breeze to install. If I remember correctly, just three bolts hold it in place and of course, the wire plug. Took all of five minutes to swap out the motors. Best part is the motor wasn't expensive! Being a Ford part, figured it would be about $150 or so, but it was around $50.
Picked up a new motor from the local Ford dealership and it was a breeze to install. If I remember correctly, just three bolts hold it in place and of course, the wire plug. Took all of five minutes to swap out the motors. Best part is the motor wasn't expensive! Being a Ford part, figured it would be about $150 or so, but it was around $50.
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