EFI toubles
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EFI toubles
I've got an '88 w/the 302. All of a sudden it won't start. Before when I'd turn the key I'd hear the fuel pump(s)?? whir a bit then stop - pressurizing the system, right? Then she'd start right up. Now the whirring is gone.
I've been checking electrical connections and I've replaced the fuel relay switch. I'd rather not drop the tank just yet. Is there a fuse or something else that I could check? Is there an easy way to see if it is a pump before I start taking things apart? I'm not very familiar with EFI fuel system.
No plowing for me until the problem is fixed...
I've been checking electrical connections and I've replaced the fuel relay switch. I'd rather not drop the tank just yet. Is there a fuse or something else that I could check? Is there an easy way to see if it is a pump before I start taking things apart? I'm not very familiar with EFI fuel system.
No plowing for me until the problem is fixed...
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From: Easton,Ks
Do you have one or two tanks?
Did you try resetting the Inertia Switch?
No Fuse, just a Fuse Link.
Can you read an Electrical Diagram if I post one?
Do you have a test light?
The pumps only run for two seconds after the key is in the on Position and then do not run again until the EEC sees a PIP Pulse
Did you try resetting the Inertia Switch?
No Fuse, just a Fuse Link.
Can you read an Electrical Diagram if I post one?
Do you have a test light?
The pumps only run for two seconds after the key is in the on Position and then do not run again until the EEC sees a PIP Pulse
Last edited by IB Tim; Dec 18, 2005 at 08:15 AM.
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It was originally a 2-tank system but just the rear one is active now. I did try the intertia switch reset with no luck. I don't have a test light but I do have a voltmeter and a continuity tester.
I had my son in the cab turning the key while I roved around the underside. No pump sounds, but the relay clicked as did something under the cab along the frame rail. I'd be happy to try to read the diagram if you posted it.
I had my son in the cab turning the key while I roved around the underside. No pump sounds, but the relay clicked as did something under the cab along the frame rail. I'd be happy to try to read the diagram if you posted it.
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From: Easton,Ks
Here is a diagram but I do not know what changes have been done to your truck when changing to one tank. You should have two relays click when you turn on the key and one will drop out in two seconds. There are two pumps that should run for the two seconds, one in the tank and one on the rail.
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From: Easton,Ks
Here is a complete under hood diagram if you need it, the last one is the same but simplified:
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d800a3a44.gif
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d800a3a44.gif
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Check the Fuel Selector Switch on the dash. If that corrodes or gets unplugged, the pumps wont run.
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If two pumps should engage for a couple of seconds then I'm beginning to think they aren't the problem, because neither makes a sound when the key is turned on. At the top of the WD you sent is the fuse link from the fuel pump relay. Where would this fuse link be and what am I looking for?
Memorex, I will check the selector switch also, but if I'm interpreting the WD correctly, a problem with the selector switch would only prohibit the in-tank pump from engaging. Is that right?
Memorex, I will check the selector switch also, but if I'm interpreting the WD correctly, a problem with the selector switch would only prohibit the in-tank pump from engaging. Is that right?
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by netminder
If two pumps should engage for a couple of seconds then I'm beginning to think they aren't the problem, because neither makes a sound when the key is turned on. At the top of the WD you sent is the fuse link from the fuel pump relay. Where would this fuse link be and what am I looking for?
Memorex, I will check the selector switch also, but if I'm interpreting the WD correctly, a problem with the selector switch would only prohibit the in-tank pump from engaging. Is that right?
Memorex, I will check the selector switch also, but if I'm interpreting the WD correctly, a problem with the selector switch would only prohibit the in-tank pump from engaging. Is that right?
The Fuse Link is an 18GA (the WD is wrong saying 20GA) and all my manual said is "FROM STARTER MOTOR" but I would think it would be coming off the Starter Solenoid. It Feeds a larger Yellow wire and is fed by a Red wire. To test a Fuse Link grab ahold of both ends and pull, if it stretches it is bad.