Way fast ford build
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 110
From: Northshore, MN
lifted 4x4's are not designed for highways or streets. They're designed for mud pits and rocky terrains. The mindset is that a lifted 4x4 will get you out of sticky situations that a stocker will not. No offense to anyone here, but why lift a truck and put big tires on it to just drive around town? A 48 f1 would do more good for that, and get more looks. Either way, racing or off-roading, the traggic lessons learned here are that you need a roll cage and 5 point harness. Good luck.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Outside of Twin Falls
havi, I know what a 4x4 is built for, that is not the issue here. Anybody else into building a 2wd street rod out of a ford? Not a lot of people do it around here, and some of the meanest mills around here are cheby small blocks, and these chevy boys bragging about their 350's just make me laugh. I know these fords can be built to waste chebys all day long. I'm building a street rod, with fat tires on the back, smooth body, and a monster motor. I just wanted your guys suggestions on what kind of mods you would do to a 2wd like this.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 17
From: Hesperia, CA
Originally Posted by Big Block Boy
havi, I know what a 4x4 is built for, that is not the issue here. Anybody else into building a 2wd street rod out of a ford? Not a lot of people do it around here, and some of the meanest mills around here are cheby small blocks, and these chevy boys bragging about their 350's just make me laugh. I know these fords can be built to waste chebys all day long. I'm building a street rod, with fat tires on the back, smooth body, and a monster motor. I just wanted your guys suggestions on what kind of mods you would do to a 2wd like this.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, OH
I'd start by lowering it. Get the center of gravity down, then work on then areodynamics. For the engine, are you going EFI or carb? Put a hot (you don't want too much lope, but you can still get a good high lift cam with a smooth idle) cam in it, flat top pistons, a good intake, headers, and quadrajet (flame me all you want) carb on it.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Outside of Twin Falls
Going carb. That is taken care of, I have a holley 750 ready to bolt on. I was wondering what kind of motor mounts people are using that keep breaking? Keep the suggestions coming though.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Big block boy,
Take a look at my gallery for some ideas of what your truck would look like with the changes you would like to make. I did something very similar. I've got 325/50-15's Drag radials on the back of mine
James
Take a look at my gallery for some ideas of what your truck would look like with the changes you would like to make. I did something very similar. I've got 325/50-15's Drag radials on the back of mine
James
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 110
From: Northshore, MN
ok, my opinion only: using a 67-72 9 inch rear with 35 spline axles and whatever third member for gearing choices, will gain you extra clearance under the rear fenderwells for fatter tires, since the axle is narrower. It's only a money saving issue as opposed to buying a custom axle. That 460 will show you where the next weak link is. I had a 73 2wd f100 302 w/3 speed on the column that outraced a 460 powered f150. Only because it weighed less. L&L make decent motor mounts, and it's hard to beat their warranty. Now I'm not saying the 9 inch is weak, but the smaller driveshaft and yoke is, and will need to be upgraded for them hard launches. Good luck.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Outside of Twin Falls
mclaughlin31, that is exactly what i'm wanting to do. I was thinking 3" dual exhaust with electric cutouts. Can't wait to see the look on the diesel guys face after they open up.
I was thinkin 295-15's on the back, and maybe 235's on the front. Bucket seats and a automatic floor shifter. Lotsa chrome and a good paint job, and now, maybe chopped top? Still kicking that idea around, and maybe a custom fiberglass front end.
I know a guy that does wonders with fiberglass.
havi, was the 460 sick? or did you have some mods to the 302? Those are supprising little engines though.
Can't wait to see the look on the diesel guys face after they open up. I was thinkin 295-15's on the back, and maybe 235's on the front. Bucket seats and a automatic floor shifter. Lotsa chrome and a good paint job, and now, maybe chopped top? Still kicking that idea around, and maybe a custom fiberglass front end. I know a guy that does wonders with fiberglass.havi, was the 460 sick? or did you have some mods to the 302? Those are supprising little engines though.
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 110
From: Northshore, MN
I probably had a 200 pound lighter front end, and I had 3.25:1 gears. No tailgate, and I adjusted the throttle linkage to go wide open as soon as I stepped on it. As an example, most 351m's I've driven have always hesitated a second before revving up, anyway, My 3 speed meant one less shift, and moveed the engine's rpm's up thru the power band more and longer between shifts. It wasn't a blow-out, but that 302 flew. I don't know what the previous owner did to it, but I do know he took care of it since it had no rust, and where I live, everything has rust. fastest truck I ever had, and too bad I rolled it. drove for two more weeks after that until I blew a rod. U.S. Body Source sells fiberglass body kits, both lightweight, and heavyweight. Build it the way you like, but as a suggestion, 460's tend to make the weak links show up.
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 110
From: Northshore, MN