F150: Lockers and towing
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From: North Texas
F150: Lockers and towing
There's an ongoing debate about lockers and towing. The general opinion seems to be that if you need a locker for offroading or drag racing, and also tow you should get an air or electric locker. These run $700 and up, plus any differential rebuild parts, and/or shop fees for the mechanically disinclined.(or time challenged)
Then there are EZ and lock-right lockers that run $250. I'd like to find out just how problematic these lockers are in normal towing. I define normal towing as a using an F150 351-400 engine and towing a 2000lb boat monthly and a 4500lb car once or twice a year, at the posted speed limit, 30-50 miles in a day, mostly good weather, mostly good roads. (that's about 540 miles of towing in a year)
If you, personally, have experience in this situation please let us know. If you have information from a trusted friend, that's also permissable. Please don't post 'locker suck', 'lockers rule', or 'my friend's, cousin's, mail man's, ex-husband" type comments.
Then there are EZ and lock-right lockers that run $250. I'd like to find out just how problematic these lockers are in normal towing. I define normal towing as a using an F150 351-400 engine and towing a 2000lb boat monthly and a 4500lb car once or twice a year, at the posted speed limit, 30-50 miles in a day, mostly good weather, mostly good roads. (that's about 540 miles of towing in a year)
If you, personally, have experience in this situation please let us know. If you have information from a trusted friend, that's also permissable. Please don't post 'locker suck', 'lockers rule', or 'my friend's, cousin's, mail man's, ex-husband" type comments.
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From: North Texas
Another thought... reliability/durability.
I've heard horror stories about ARB's eating compressors, solenoids, constant leaks, etc. Is this an issue for road cars, or just offroad warriors?
The most common complaint about lockers seems to be a broken axle. While that speaks well of the locker's strength, any failure that puts you on a trailer sucks. Once again, is this a problem in the 'normal' driving mentioned above, or only for offroad warriors?
I've heard horror stories about ARB's eating compressors, solenoids, constant leaks, etc. Is this an issue for road cars, or just offroad warriors?
The most common complaint about lockers seems to be a broken axle. While that speaks well of the locker's strength, any failure that puts you on a trailer sucks. Once again, is this a problem in the 'normal' driving mentioned above, or only for offroad warriors?
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The price of a ARB you really have to be serious about offroading as said you need a compressor etc. You have to figure out how much I'am I going to use it to make it warrentable to buy.
Is this truck a 2wd is why you want a locker ?
Another thing to keep in mind a F-150 is pretty light on the azz end so even with a locker in 2wd you may not have enough traction both back wheels will spin and you go no where. If the truck is a 4wheeldrive it will help you will see some benefits.
As for a full time locker like a lockright or detroit you may want to keep a little extra weight in the bed to keep the two tires planted on the ground.
You didn't say what year this truck is does it have a 9" Ford or is it a 8.8 Ford ?
Is this truck a 2wd is why you want a locker ?
Another thing to keep in mind a F-150 is pretty light on the azz end so even with a locker in 2wd you may not have enough traction both back wheels will spin and you go no where. If the truck is a 4wheeldrive it will help you will see some benefits.
As for a full time locker like a lockright or detroit you may want to keep a little extra weight in the bed to keep the two tires planted on the ground.
You didn't say what year this truck is does it have a 9" Ford or is it a 8.8 Ford ?
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Mine's a 77 F150 400 C6 2wd. I'd want a locker for traction at the drag strip. Since that's a rare occasion I'd have trouble justifying a $700 ARB, $200 compressor, etc. A $250 locker I might be able to rationalize.
I'd be suprised if my 400 couldn't light up the tires in first, even with a locker. The advantage of a locker is the possibility of more power being put to the ground. You should be able to get twice the force to accelerate the truck.(two tires pushing instead of one) Naturally this is an advantage only if you can keep the tires near their traction limit rather than spinning them.
It has a 9 inch. I don't know if the axles have 28 or 31 splines.
I'd be suprised if my 400 couldn't light up the tires in first, even with a locker. The advantage of a locker is the possibility of more power being put to the ground. You should be able to get twice the force to accelerate the truck.(two tires pushing instead of one) Naturally this is an advantage only if you can keep the tires near their traction limit rather than spinning them.
It has a 9 inch. I don't know if the axles have 28 or 31 splines.
Last edited by derherr65; Dec 17, 2005 at 03:05 PM. Reason: forgot the last answer
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I had a Lock Rite locker in mine for a while, till it self destructed and took out the ring and pinion as well as all the bearings in my 10.25" Sterling.
Just driving around it was OK except the bang when it unlocked making an uphill sharp turn. My truck is an 86 250 diesel that weighs 8000 pounds empty.
Towing was not a problem either because it does not add that much weight to the truck rear end if the trailer is loaded properly.
What was a big problem was hauling weight in the truck bed. Mine is a dump bed and a couple of tons of rock made it impossible to steer while pulling a steep hill. Locker locked, truck went straight no matter where the front wheels were pointed.
I did really like the extra traction while I was plowing snow or off in the mud on a jobsite, but it made my dump bed useless on the highway.
Right now I have limited slip units in both ends, I can go good but I don't like not being able to drive with the front hubs turned in unless I am in slippery stuff.
Just driving around it was OK except the bang when it unlocked making an uphill sharp turn. My truck is an 86 250 diesel that weighs 8000 pounds empty.
Towing was not a problem either because it does not add that much weight to the truck rear end if the trailer is loaded properly.
What was a big problem was hauling weight in the truck bed. Mine is a dump bed and a couple of tons of rock made it impossible to steer while pulling a steep hill. Locker locked, truck went straight no matter where the front wheels were pointed.
I did really like the extra traction while I was plowing snow or off in the mud on a jobsite, but it made my dump bed useless on the highway.
Right now I have limited slip units in both ends, I can go good but I don't like not being able to drive with the front hubs turned in unless I am in slippery stuff.
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It sounds like the locker wouldn't be much trouble in the light duty I'd put it through. Is the 9" 28 spline enough weaker that I should worry about putting a locker on it? I still haven't checked if mine's a 28 or 31... just curious about the difference.
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I wouldn't worry about breaking anything in a 1/2 ton if your not going to be carrying anything really heavy. With Dave's truck he carrys extreme loads on his F-250 so the rear axle is under some good strain I can see a locker grenading his rear axle.
With a half ton two wheeldrive you may really feel a locker unlocking and locking it may kick the rear of your truck. You would have to be darn carefull about a wet road and in a corner or just goosing it on a wet road.
My brother had a 1/2 ton short box Chevy a 70s model truck with a 350 automatic with a tight limited slip in the back it would swap ends pretty easy. You also could get a 3 gear chirp out of the rear tires if you did a brake stand you would get two black lines you could prolly roast the tires to the cords.
I would consider the Auburn Limited slip they make one for the 9" Ford I'am pretty sure it will hold good enough for your truck.
With a half ton two wheeldrive you may really feel a locker unlocking and locking it may kick the rear of your truck. You would have to be darn carefull about a wet road and in a corner or just goosing it on a wet road.
My brother had a 1/2 ton short box Chevy a 70s model truck with a 350 automatic with a tight limited slip in the back it would swap ends pretty easy. You also could get a 3 gear chirp out of the rear tires if you did a brake stand you would get two black lines you could prolly roast the tires to the cords.
I would consider the Auburn Limited slip they make one for the 9" Ford I'am pretty sure it will hold good enough for your truck.
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Originally Posted by derherr65
It sounds like the locker wouldn't be much trouble in the light duty I'd put it through. Is the 9" 28 spline enough weaker that I should worry about putting a locker on it? I still haven't checked if mine's a 28 or 31... just curious about the difference.
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I do like the concept of the ARB Sno, it's just the price. For as little towing as I do I wonder if I can justify the 5-6x expence. The breakage/leakage problems are in the back of my mind, though I suspect that may just be an offroading issue.
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Originally Posted by derherr65
I do like the concept of the ARB Sno, it's just the price. For as little towing as I do I wonder if I can justify the 5-6x expence. The breakage/leakage problems are in the back of my mind, though I suspect that may just be an offroading issue.
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The tractech (detroit) truetrac differential sounds interesting. $400 isn't too bad for a differential that's full carrier, gear driven, and limited slip. What are the traction characteristics?
Quotes from tractech
"Up to 3.5 times more traction to wheel with traction"
"normal gear engagement may produce temporary driver feedback"
The magazine and 4x4 club reviews seem very positive. Mostly it's "the best limited slip out there" or "almost as good as a locker without the problems"
Lol, and do I really want to learn how to rebuild a center section?
Quotes from tractech
"Up to 3.5 times more traction to wheel with traction"
"normal gear engagement may produce temporary driver feedback"
The magazine and 4x4 club reviews seem very positive. Mostly it's "the best limited slip out there" or "almost as good as a locker without the problems"
Lol, and do I really want to learn how to rebuild a center section?
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Originally Posted by derherr65
The tractech (detroit) truetrac differential sounds interesting. $400 isn't too bad for a differential that's full carrier, gear driven, and limited slip. What are the traction characteristics?
Quotes from tractech
"Up to 3.5 times more traction to wheel with traction"
"normal gear engagement may produce temporary driver feedback"
The magazine and 4x4 club reviews seem very positive. Mostly it's "the best limited slip out there" or "almost as good as a locker without the problems"
Lol, and do I really want to learn how to rebuild a center section?
Quotes from tractech
"Up to 3.5 times more traction to wheel with traction"
"normal gear engagement may produce temporary driver feedback"
The magazine and 4x4 club reviews seem very positive. Mostly it's "the best limited slip out there" or "almost as good as a locker without the problems"
Lol, and do I really want to learn how to rebuild a center section?
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