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Help With Broken-Off Bolt

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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 07:42 PM
  #1  
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seawulff
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Help With Broken-Off Bolt

Trying to be compulsive, I was torquing the bolts on my oil pan to the recommended amount and broke one off in the block. No big deal you say but then I was trying to use a tap to take it out and that broke off too. How can I get all that stuff out of the whole and make it usable again. Make it simple remember who your dealing with, I'm a doctor not a mechanic!
Chris
 
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 07:51 PM
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Madathlon
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Well Doc.. do U have a buddie thats a mechanic? 1st U dont use a tap to remove a broken bolt.. U use a easy out.. So the best thing I can say is have a mechanic fix this one..
 
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 08:16 PM
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Actually I was using an easy out but I didn't know the name for it. It's the device that is reverse threaded so it tightens as the bolts loosens. the truck isn't running so I want to try and fix it what method do I use. Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 08:16 PM
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What the heck, Chris. I'm an engineer, and I can do it. Have a little confidence.

Most taps are made of hardened steel. If you whack it with a sharp punch a few times, it should either shatter or break down so you can pick out the pieces. The whacking also helps loosen the bolt behind. The tap can also be drilled out using a carbide or HSS drill, but it's hard work. The bolt can be drilled and an easy-out inserted. Out it comes (usually). Clean up the hole with the new tap you will buy. Oila! (Get another bolt.)

Take 2 aspirin and post us in the morning.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 08:28 PM
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Everybody loves to poke fun at the doctor, since I'm a cardiologist and do angioplasty I'm much better at plumbing! Are there different size easy outs for different size bolts, it could be that the one I broke off in the bolt was too small.

Chris
 
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 08:30 PM
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Hey Doc, to hold down on the possibility of blood spatter make sure you wear safety goggles and leather gloves.

Please submit payment for this advice to my HMO (Helper Mechnics Office)
 
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 08:37 PM
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Seawulff: Sounds something like that Cypher stent they gave me. Hopefully I won't need the easy out on it.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 08:41 PM
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Sorry, sir, but there are no good options from here. There is no one method that will work. If you have any of the bolt still sticking out of the hole you can sometimes weld another bolt to it and then turn that bolt out.

You might be able to grind a slot into the original bolt and use a screwdriver. Drilling it out is very difficult as the easy-out is much stronger steel than the bolt. If you try this start with a very small bit and build up - and use reverse bits (turn the opposite way).

Be very careful as it is easy to break the cast iron block - making a much bigger repair job. Frankly, I would consider taking this to a machine shop for that reason, even though it requires pulling the engine back out.

If you can post a picture of the broken bolt and the block around it maybe someone can see something that will help.

Sorry you are having this problem.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 10:35 PM
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I also think a picture would help us out. About the only way you are going to drill through the easy out is with a carbide drill, I doubt the HSS can handle it unless you want a ruined drill. If you do drill it out, be sure to drill in the middle of the broken easy out/bolt. I have used an automatic center punch to get broken bolts or taps out before, I don't know if this would work for you as I can't see how it broke. Good luck and keep us updated.

hotrod48
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:04 AM
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I had this problem before with the broken bolt and easyout if you can get a cutting torch close enough to the hole you can blow it right out the metal in the block is alot harder than the bolt I didn't even have to run a tap in the hole .
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 09:00 AM
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Somehow you are going to have to get that part of the easy out removed, but of course you knew that right. It being a hardened piece its possible to use a carbide drill bit. But with that you stand the chance of drilling off the side of it and runining the hole. The only real sure way I know of from working in a tool and die department is to take the block to someone who has an EDM Machine. It uses an electrode and an oil flow to burn away the hardened tooling. The EDM operator at the company I worked at was treated real well as he saved out butts many times when we would break off taps in molds worth half a million dollars.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 09:02 AM
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Last time I went through this I had to use a Dremel tool with a small burr, grind away as much as I could without destroying the threads and picking the pieces out with a scribe and magnet. Took a long time but worked.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 11:37 AM
  #13  
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Since I can't wee what you are lookin at Doc, I'm shootin in the dark. I have had success by using a small drift [punch] at the edge of the bolt and slowly tapped it in a circle[left] to remove a broken bolt. Since it is not rusted in place, it might be worth a try. Joe
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 11:59 AM
  #14  
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snipa
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From: Appleton, Wisconsin
i had the same problem seawolf,
Easy outs shouldn't break (after mine broke ) I read the package and it was Chinese steel

I then went and bought a Master mechanic Coblat steel drill bit and a Master Mechanic easy out (usa)

The cobalt bit wasa able to drill into the old busted easy out

Like other people posted, pound on the busted bolt with a nailset or something, heat it to loosen it before you redrill and try again
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 01:27 PM
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I'm not sure what your situation is, is the engine still in the vehicle or on a bench, is this a show engine or just a runner. If the engine is in the vehicle and the broken bolt has a bolt on either side of it I wouldn't be too concerned. Put a good gasket sealer on your pan gasket, (be generous) and tighten the pan. I recommend a touch of a removeable strength locktite on the threads of each pan bolt. this will stop them from loosening of in the near future. For added insurance you can cut a piece of flatbar to fit in the lip of the pan (alumimun or steel) a little longer than the distance of the bolts on either side of the broken one. Drill holes to match up with the bolt holes and bolt this in place.This should put some pressure on the broken bolt area. Not too thick on the flat bar or you will have to buy longer bolts. Be sure to grind the broken bolt slightly below the pan or put a small indent or hole in the flat bar where the broken bolt will contact so that it won't prevent the pan from being drawn up tight. If longer bolts are required measure the depth of the bolt holes (use whatever you have to put in the hole) and make sure the new bolts arn't too long or they will bottom out. Easy fix, should work. If this is a show engine you will probably want to get that bolt out. If you get a very small chiesel or punch and place it on the outer most accessible edge of the bolt and hit it with a hammer. Repeat this a few times and you may be able to get the bolt to turn. Make sure you are going in the correct direction and in this case patience will be required. Good luck and don't feel bad this happens to the best of us,
 
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