I installed the Pertronix ignition on my 1974 f-100 360 and am having a very strange problem. I didn't really want to take the dash apart to find the connector for the resistance wire (to bypass it, as per the instructions), so I looked at the wiring diagram and found a wire that I thought was hooked to the run position of the ignition (wire was green with red trace). I spliced a wire from this wire to the red with green wire that goes to the coil (along with the brown wire that gives 12V at startup). Anyway, for some reason, the ignition is still getting voltage when I switch it off. The motor runs on, but slower than when the ignition is on. It isn't dieseling, as it is smooth, and the ignition is still giving spark. If I put it in drive and give it gas I can usually get it to shut off. Once the engine dies there is no longer power to the coil. It seems that there is power as long as the alternator is still turning.

I think the problem may be in the voltage regulator, but the wiring diagrams have me a little confused with all the brackets and components that only exist on some models.

Can anyone out there give some advice? Is the green with red tracer wire the wrong one? If I can't figure it out I will need to get behind the dash and find the inside end of the resistance wire. Any hints on getting to the wiring harness easily? Do I have to remove the whole dash, instrument panel, etc... It's pretty cold here and I'd rather not have to do all that right now.

Thanks for the help!

Mark

 

If it were my project, I would start by taking the instument panel off, and using a test light on the prospective wires, and turn the ignition in the process to see what wire does what;-)

 

 

Ok the way I read the wiring diagrams you are hooked to the wrong wire It would appear you will have voltage on the green/red wire whenever the alternator is turning
Best way, IMHO, is to run a new wire from the "R" for run terminal of the ignition switch to the place where you spliced into the green/red wire. Remove the green/red wire from this splice, splice it back together of course Then connect the new wire, the brown wire, and the wire going to your coil together.
You should be able to do this without removing the dash. Disconnect the battery and then remove the ignition switch from the dash, there is a threaded ring on the front of the switch that secures it to the dash. Use the existing wires to secure the new wire to. Right above the fuse box there is a grommet that wires go thru into the engine compartment.
Actually it is probably easier to feed the wire from the engine compartment into the cab, now that I think about it. Then hook it to the ignition switch. The wires go thru the firewall at the back of the drivers side inner fender.
Good luck.

Sparky

 

Those wiring diagrams are pretty confusing. Sparky, thanks for confirming that it is probably the wrong wire and not a faulty voltage regulator. I'll end up either working from the ignition switch as you suggested, or I will bite the bullet and work my way to the cab side of the resistance wire.

Thanks!

Mark

 

If I didn't want to tear the dash apart--atleast until say may or june---It seems to me that the most logical thing to do would BE to find the Power wire that feeds the old ignition system and make sure first of all that when you turn off your ignition switch that it kills the voltage to that wire---then---Simply use that wire as the power source for your new ignition system source of voltage and for now atleast just leave everything else be until the spring thaw-----Also---when you disconnect the power source to the old ignition system you will also be stopping the resistence wire from working---I'm sure the power wire for the old ignition system will be found under the hood so use a good test light for this purpose---