Hey everyone!

I was just wondering if anyone here uses the royal purple motor oil. It is time for an oil change in my 1997 f350 460 at 22,000 miles. I have been using pennzoil 10w30 and was wondering if there is a better way to o or if doesnt really matter.

thanks for the help!

 

ps - my main concern is the longevity of the engine and then performance.

thanks again,
Keith

 

RP gets its PAO basestocks from BP in Houston. They are just a blender on this product. The most expensive ingredient in the formulation is the purple dye. The formulation itself is not remarkable. I won't say that it is a bad oil, it's as good as any but considering the cost and the value it provides, it ain't worth the asking price. No synthetic oil has more lubricity over a dino- that's advertizing hype. Under normal driving conditions, there are no advantages to using synthetics. If you have artic conditions, extreme heat and pulling a trailer, need extended oil change intervals, you might consider a synthetic. It's hard to find a bad SM rated oil with the 930 spec on the bottle regardless of brand and that includes Walmart oil. Pick a brand that you are comfy with and change oil and filter according to the manufacturers recommended intervals and enjoy the ride. Properly maintained you should still be enjoying the ride at 200,000 miles.

 

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I like Royal Purple, and would not hesitate to use it. I had it in my Aerostar van with a 3.0 v6, 140k+ miles, 5w30, and it was perfect. Peak MPG, no leaks, and I never added a drop between oil changes. The Aerostar even passed it's biannual California smog test at the end of summer this year, and it passed easily. So yes, use RP with confidence, and your '97 460 will love the Royal Purple 5w30. Royal Purple is also popular with all out drag racing motors. They make specialized racing oils, yet many racers run the street oil in all out race motors, with excellent results. 5w30 RP, use it, and forget it... Ed

 

i buy the rp from www.karlracing.com

 

Very low miles per year there .

I would use Mobil 0w-40 with a Motorcraft filter and change once a year and thats treating it special . That oil will go two years with an oil filter change at 12 months and still be in good shape at 24 months . No kidding

Use oils as tools . The Mobil 0w-40 is a great one for this job .

 

Since your profile shows MD, and this truck is operated extremely low miles per year, stick to Pennzoil and annual changes. RP would simply be a waste of money.

Jim

 

I just bought the truck 3 months ago at 19,000 miles .... its my daily driver now which is why i was wondering about all this. thaknks for the replies! please keep them coming!!

 

Well , that changes things I thought the engine was a " sitter " .

Personally I would pick the Mobil Clean 7500 over the Royal Purple and at single quart pricing the Mobil Clean 7500 would be good bang for buck .

If you want synthetic , the Mobil 0w-40 will run a very , very long time at 1k miles per month in a good engine that gets good and warm everytime out .

Or , just change the Pennzoil every 4 months .

Good luck

 

I use 3 quarts of standard Valvoline dino oil with 2 quarts of Royal Purple. The purple stuff is expensive, but the Synerlac additive is really good for protecting the engine. I used to go 100% RP, but I can't afford it.

RP is good oil. I have run many a truck on many miles with RP and a K&N filter (another debated topic). Don't expect major mileage gains, but the engine will be better protected than with DINO oil. I buy it at NAPA.

 

the Synerlac additive was a great additive at one time. but other companies are surpassing it in there off the shelf oils. royal purple has shot themselves in the foot one more time. today i received an email form RP the will be raising wholesale costs 5% as of jan 1st. so the oil will be close to 7.00 . i will not use it when you can go to walmart and buy mobil for under 4.00 a qaurt.

 

I agree with you on that. Dad quit using RP in his race car due to the price. This may keep me from using it in my vehicles.

 

thanks everyone !!

 

about 13 yrs ago i use to use the bearing testing machine to promote a metal conditioner product. All oils would lock up at very little pressure applied to the bering. the RP would take much more pressure before it locked up.

 

This topic is not even debatable

Esters of some type are most always used in combination with PAOs in *real* full synthetic motor oils in order to balance the effect on seals, solubilize additives, reduce volatility, and improve energy efficiency through higher lubricity . Esters also solubilise and disperse oil byproducts and degraded inferior base oils which can be be deposited as varnish , sludge or both and makes for a cleaner overall engine with improved additive solubility in the final lubricant.

Polarity of the ester used causes the molecules to be attracted to metal surfaces. As a result, the ester also has a far better film strenght which makes for a degree of higher lubricity .

Esters " many types " are a crystaline powder and are solubilised by an alcohol or acids . Paos and the making " refining " of them are not even in close resemblance to esters .

Even Ester Amines " polar surfactants " are used in some primary Pao formulas so the fluid will stick to the metal parts during shut down and help protect during cold starts without resorting to ISO 100 grade tackifiers which are generally much too thich for PCMO's and offer poor oxidation resistance .

There's much more to it but the majority will get the the basics here .

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Not the run of the mill group III's found at Walmart