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Used heads, Lapping valves

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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 06:30 PM
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Used heads, Lapping valves

Gentlemen,

I was lucky enough today to pick up two used crack-free (miraculous) heads. Valves look quite good, no burning.

Question: Should I use lapping compound and my drill or just install them as is?

Ken

PS my old heads were cracked across valve seats, hopeless.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 06:58 PM
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i would take to shop to have 3 angle resurface on seats and machine resurfacing of valves....
modern valve seats and valves, especially the exhaust, are too hard to get a good seal by just lapping....returns old head seats and old wear unmatched valves to correct angle and perfectly round shape...will also find any slightly bent valve stems
poor seal causing burning and power loss....
job will be less than $100
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; Dec 12, 2005 at 07:19 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 09:37 PM
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Thanks 96

Ken
 
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 09:45 PM
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if you do decide to lap for cost reasons, try to get one of the diamond dust lap compounds, will cut the hard exhaust seats
 
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 10:14 PM
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I'm with 96_4wdr, Ken. Have the valves and seats cut. Also, they would resurface the heads if necessary. It generally is much cheaper if you would remove the springs first and just give them the heads with the valves in them.

Also, make sure the casting number on the new heads matches those of the old ones. There are several versions of the 4.0L heads. Best way to make sure is to compare the shapes of the area around the valves.
 

Last edited by copper_90680; Dec 12, 2005 at 10:16 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 11:15 PM
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Thanks guys, big, big help.

ken
 
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 11:45 PM
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,

One of my heads was good, one was cracked. I had the good head rebuilt, all new parts for $35.00 at the machine shop I use. I already had the parts for rebuild, but for $35.00, I just kept the new parts I had for future use. I bought another rebuilt head that was ready to slap on, it cost me $100.00.



T
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 12:38 AM
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Just out of curiousity, why would you port and polish the heads? (I assume that is what you are talking about.)

Wouldn't you only want to make sure that the head is not warped and there are no cracks? I would think that would be enough, but I could be way off, if so, please explain?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 11:42 AM
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No, they are not talking about polishing any ports. The area where the valves touch the valve seats must form a perfect seal. They have to be either polished (lapped) till they fit, or machined to perfection. On newer engines, they should be machined. You should never port and polish your heads.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 02:55 PM
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ok, that makes sense, I just misunderstood what you weree talking about.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 02:57 PM
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Dear KH,

I agree with your comments but am curious about porting and polishing. Mind you I didn't do that, but why do you say it is bad? what is wrong with smooth runners and ports that match up? But then, if rough is bad, why aren't golf ***** smooth. My god we are back into aerodynamics.

Ken
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 03:02 PM
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Golf ***** aren't smooth because the pits give it more lift, than a smooth ball. Engines don't really need lift.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 03:20 PM
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Be careful to tell the shop you want a straight edge put on the heads and if the
surfaces are as tru as stated in the Ford shop manuals you don't want them resurfaced.
To many shops just go ahead regardless. I have a saying "all the bandits don't wear Masks. At least the racoon tells us what he is".
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 06:12 PM
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It seems that the entire auto repair industry could be described by Kotzy's post.

ken

PS. my heads are in the shop having their valves ground with three lovely angles. You guys made me do it.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 06:14 PM
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Dear 93,

Isn't airflow over a golfball the same as airflow down a pipe??

ken
 
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