Sounds like they didn't get the timing chain and cam installed correctly with the cam timed properly.

 

Thanks for the input. Can you think of any other reason for the timing to be off. The dealer is trying to get out of fixing it. Thanks,Jim.

 

What the dealer needs to do...is hook up the computer and monitor the V10 LIVE (running). That will show what is wrong...as long as the tech knows how to read the results.

Good luck...


biz

 

My mechanic did that and he said it was showing the timing to be at 16 degrees at idle and while driving would climb to over 40 degrees . Do you know if anything else would cause this other than them getting the timing chain off ? Keep in mind I have never had a detonation problem before they replaced the head . They did have the plenum oring pinched and was causing a vacume leak that my mechanic fixed but that did not fix the problem. Thanks,Jim.

 

The timing is based on the crankshaft sensor, so mis-timing the cams wouldn't make the spark timing any different. And cam timing can't be diagnosed with a computer. I don't think these things HAVE a cam sensor, do they?

The only way to tell if the cam timing is off without taking it apart is, a compression check. If the cam timing is off on one bank, it'll read a different compression pressure than the other bank. Assuming, of course, they only got one cam timed wrong.

Does it run like it has no power? Or in any way different than it used to?

 

Yes it does run different. It is down on power and just sounds different. It does not have the same tone and smoothness it use to have. Thanks for your input,Jim.

 

I just want to go on the record here that I have had serious pinging problems on my E-350 V10. My engine does not have an EGR system, so the only thing that controls the timing of this V-10 is the knock sensor. I have a Scan Gauge II which I run with this vehicle; when it was pinging under load or more heavy throttle conditions my ignition timing did not retard as it should, you can watch it on the Scan Gauge II reader..

The fix for me was to disconnect my battery over night. The next day it ran perfectly smooth and still has with no pinging. I notice now that normally the timing is 25-35 rolling down the road, and when power is requested by a hill or more throttle, the timing retards to 10-15 degrees (as shown on my Scan Gauge II.) which is normal. It was not doing that before I reset the system, the timing stayed in the high range as if there were no knock sensor feedback at all.

Another thing is that to change the knock sensor all you have to do is remove the alternator in the front of the engine, (somewhat easy) and then you will see the knock sensor. You do not have to remove the intake manifold. If you have very skinny hands or real cool tools, you might be able to remove it without removing the alternator. It is quite visible in the bottom of the V of the engine from the front.

Good Luck,

Jim

 

I have a 02 excursion 4x4 with 110k it has 37s on it and it pings iv tried everthing im going to try high voltage coils. And see what happens.

 

you should try a 5-star tuner... they can get you a tune with MUCH improved fuel maps that will deal with that pesky ping from the stock tune.

 

Ok ill try it. Im going to summit this weekend.thx

 

dont settle for a canned tune out of a stock tuner box...get one written for your exact truck from Mike.

5 Star Tuning | Custom Dynomemeter Chassis Tuning Products and Services

follow that link.. Mike from 5-star has tons of super happy customers on this site.

his stuff is WORTH every penny.

 

Any more updates?

 

Excessive blow by will dilute the incoming charge and cause pinging.

 

Anyone fix their issues?

 

I recently had to change out a head due to previous damage from a bad exhaust manifold stud repair. Both were removed but only one was replaced. I installed the reman'd head and thought all was great until I hit the first hill while towing a camper and I got a lot of knocking. I found this old thread and another user that appears to have had the exact same problem. Included in the exchange between projim64 and Krewat was the above response regarding engine sound and power. The sound is my best indicator of change and I noticed it on the first start-up. Power is much more difficult to judge when empty/not towing but I do think it takes a lot more pedal to get her moving. There wasnt a solution in the msg thread. Looking for answers/ideas. Issue was not there before head was replaced. I'm sure I had yhe timing chain links on the mark on cam sprockets but not 100% sure on the crank. I didn't remove the chains from the crank and left them hang on the block.

2003 F250 6.8L V10 4x4
Outback 25' Camper