Monsterbaby, you are hanging on to a lot of old myths. A stock two piece valve will easily support a couple thousands pounds of pull. How in the heck is a 340 pound solid lifter spring ever going to pull it apart? What breaks valves is the shock of dropping them onto the seat uncontrolled. This is known as valve float. A 90 pound stock spring will allow this to happen and then the weight of the stem turns into a mini slide hammer banging away pulling the stem apart. Haven’t you ever wondered how the stock locks get so stuck in the retainers? No 90 pound spring pulled it in there. It was HAMMERED in there by the momentum of the retainer flying upward and then stopping suddenly by the valve impacting the seat from floating the valves. The same extreme pull is put on the stem at both ends. Eventually the stem separates and the head of the valve breaks off. With my 8000+ rpm 800 pound springs my locks never get stuck unless that tack has been past 9,000 rpm. I too can show you engines that turn way higher rpm with stainless valves. The valves are very strong and will live with a slight float for a long time. Most amateurs would never even notice it. With the huge valves we are talking about here you will have a much better controlled valve if it is made of titanium. With a roller over .700 lift and these big valves it takes 250# on the seat and near 1000 pounds over the nose to hang onto a titanium valve. Stainless would take even more pressure to live in an 8000 rpm environment. Anything less and you start spitting up lifters and having mystery problems. Too much spring pulling valves apart myth……….Busted!

I run titanium valves in my small block and so far am getting away with 250# seat and 800# over the nose. I run a rev kit and so far my roller cam experience is the first one (.625”-.637”) was street driven and raced over 100,000 miles on the same valves and lifters. Years later my current ride has a nasty Cam-Motion profile that crushes inferior springs like Manley Nextec and Comp Pacaloys, in 5 passes. Forget about K-motions. They won't make it through one warm up. I did get a full season out of some high dollar PSI's. I now run the Isky Tool Room Gold Stripe Springs and am going on my 5th season on them.

Remember when they came out with aluminum roller rockers. They warned to change them out every 500 miles due to fatigue. What a joke that turned out to be. My first set of Crane rockers I bought in 1980 used 3rd hand from a sprint car racer who bought them from a NASCAR guy who only used them 1 race. The Sprint car guy used them for two seasons and then pulled them fearing eminent failure. I ran them on my .550 lift solid setup for 40,000 miles and then sold them to a friend who is still using them today 25 years later. I upgraded to 7/16” Crane rockers for my Roller cam application. Aluminum rocker life myth….. Busted!

My cheapo Manley aluminum rods see 8300 every pass and have been past 9,000 dozens of times and over 10,000 at least twice. No steel rod made would live long in this application. My rods were installed in 1995. 45 dyno pulls later is was put into my chassis and lasted 7 passes where it went over the guard rail ripping the oil pan off and screaming the engine upside down 15 seconds or so until it died. The Fram filter was clean so a new Hamburger pan and pickup was put on it. I attribute the save to the Mobil-1 oil it was broke in on and ran the whole time. At 600 runs the engine was pulled down and rebored to .040 over and new pistons put right back on the same rods and have another almost 300 runs on them. Aluminum rods are not only lighter but they maintain their big end roundness at high rpm or loads far better than any steel rod. A 460 at 8000 rpm is turning in 5013 feet per minute in piston speed. The longer the stroke the higher the piston speed and steel rods are done at 5000 feet per minute where an aluminum rod will live at 7500 feet per minute for a season. At 5000 they live forever. Good billet steel rods will live at 5000 feet per minute but they cost at least 3 times what the aluminum ones cost. Aluminum provides a huge safety margin if you ever have a slip with the rpm which must be considered given the nature of pulling.

World of Outlaw Sprint cars are going full seasons on them and I don't think anyone is tougher on a rod than them other than the 700"+ IHRA pro stock mountain motor applications. Even the offshore endurance boat engines are utilizing aluminum rods. Aluminum rod super short life myth….. Busted!

Aluminum rods do grow about .010” when warmed up to 140+ degrees. So with aluminum rods and my hap hazard rpm control, I run my quench at .045" They don't touch and I wouldn't hesitate to run as tight as .030 on a 7000 rpm steel rod application. It's worth over 40 horsepower to get that last bit of quench tightened up.

Coated bearings are a gimmick. If you touch metal to them they will fail one nanosecond later than the uncoated bearing. Just run synthetic oil and it will never be an issue. The roller cam bearings are a bad idea and are prone to failure. The rollers ride right on the cam journals and eventually will eat into the cam and flood the engine with metal particles as they wear. I believe they are another gimmick invented by machinists looking for more ways to separate you from your cash.

A carb way to big? Where have you been? 850's are for Buick V-6's. On the dyno a 1050 is worth 20 horsepower and 20 foot pounds on a 350 small block everywhere over 5000 rpm. I run a 1100 cfm custom built Dominator on my 357" engine and it acts like it is injected. On paper my engine calls for over 1300 cfm. We did a small one for it’s low rpm pulling power at the cost of some top end. A buddy runs the 1250 on his 377 and we run about the same. My daily driver 460 has a 750 on it with a Stealth and it pulls hard anything over 2000 rpm. My intake ports are stock. No bowl work no nothing. It runs out of breath at 4500 due somewhat to the cam but mostly due to the carb being too small as the vacuum starts going back up as the rpm climbs while at full throttle. I pull a gcvw of 17,000 pounds at over 65 mph up 7% grades no problem. An 8000 rpm 478” call for 1356 cfm. A 1250 would be okay.

I made the statement about hogging the intake ports because the 385 heads out of the box flow way better on the intake side than the exhaust do. The exhaust side is a priority on the iron heads. I always do the bowl work on the intake side but for the 385 in a performance application, I spend most of my time clearing a path for the exhaust. If you just blindly start enlarging the intake it would be easy to cause more dead spots in the runner that will allow the fuel to fallout. It’s not all about size. The shapes are more important. That’s where epoxy comes in for filling in the dead zones and getting the velocity up and improving not only total cfm but air flow swirl and tumble to keep the fuel suspended. It takes years of experience on a flow bench that most of us will never get so I always recommend the home built types avoid reshaping intake ports. A little port matching and bowl work it okay but stay out of the floors and roofs of the ports. Besides mixing fuel, a carburetor is just a variable restrictor for your intake to control rpm for the given load. The less restriction the more power as long as your ports are correct for your engine. This is another reason the port size and shape is so critical to max performance.

Rethinking this 3 mod rule apparently internal mods aren’t counted. The whole restriction in the program would be that dumb 850. On paper my 478” combo looks good with carb that flows 1325 cfm. My combo for success would be a maxed out 850 that flows over 1000 cfm on a big single plane intake. After consulting with somebody who knew about restrictor plate racing I would get best aluminum heads I could buy. I would keep the stock stroke and bore it out to the cubic inch limit. I’m not sure what your block will handle but a 4.5” bore will put you right at 478.4”s. I would gear and roller cam it to pull at 8000 rpm. It could be done fairly cheap with cheap valves but for me I would buck up and get the titanium valves, aluminum rods and light pistons at around 14.5-1 compression. I would run 5-30 or 10-30 Mobil 1 oil for protection from the extreme conditions. Having to pull when not fully warmed up to having to go to the line at 240 water temp. No problem for Mobil-1. It would be rock solid reliable at 8000 rpm and be as intimidating as heck. Those that try to run the same way will be popping engines left and right. Just changing the oil and checking the valve lash and spring tension after every outing it would last 10 years before you ever had to open it up for freshen up. They would all hate me. Then I would be at every event taking everyone’s money year after year.

 

Agree that a stroker is the easiest (and usually cheapest) way to get added power. It also paves the way for added power gains down the road.

Brad

p.s. - Backwoodspuller, great to have you here. Just remember that periods and commas are your friend...

 

You know what I don't even going to try and counter you except to say guys like you are the reason I don't try and help here very much, I am wrong you don't know squat. sprint car guys don't run alum rods, first off I live 26 miles from Knoxville IA which is the home of the sprint car nationals, and as far as you rods lasting and not stretching bull. lets look at that who runs more rpms for a longer sustained period than a nextal cup car 9000+ rpm for over 2 hrs and how many of them run alum rods. Let me save you from embarrising yourself here the answer is ZERO. Why you ask? because they won't live period they either run billet, or titanium rods. And according to you I should have toasted my engine long ago since I have a stroker engine turning 8000 rpm with Hbeam rods (not even high dollar billets) and sincemy stroke is 4.3 Vs 3.85 of a stock 460 my piston speed is a lot higher than
5000ft/sec actually the piston speed is 5733ft/sec, and I ran an entire season on them without any problems, and could actually even run the bearings for another season. Also if your running alum rods, and a rev limiter your an idiot nothing destroys them faster than dropping a cyl out at high rpms, and if your limiter is bouncing 1500rpm over the set point by mashing the throttle get rid of it becasue it's junk, mine will stop my engine at full throttle going into nuetral at 7500rpm within 200rpm of the set point not the 1500 rpm your claiming. I also just did some looking and your claim of running a .045 quench distance is probably bull butif it's not then you appearently didn't even bother to check with the manufactor, I just did check and all of them recommend a min of .060 piston to head clearence (that as actually Bill Miller Enterprises other recommend more).
and for spring preasures I run 850lbs open preasure at .740 lift on a radical roller cam with 2.30" stainless intake valves upto 8000rpm, and I know personally several pullers twisting 9000rpm with stainless 2.3 and bigger intakes and pushing 900-1000lbs of preasure on cams with over .850 lift. And as far as your "myth busting" once again bull if you were right then the 2 piece valves used on stock engines would never last any where near 100,000 miles if they are driven hard like in patrol cars, but take that same engine stuff a solid roller with 600+lbs of spring preasure in there, and you won't even make it 100 miles even if your not twisting it I have seen the results of several of these mishaps, and one of the engines hadn't even been revved past 3500 rpm yet when it pulled the valve apart, so myth busting busted.
And your coated bearings statement bieng a myth, once again bull. Talk to brett powell of PFC engines about running uncoated bearings last year, and then running coated bearings after he toasted a cam.
And as far as not touching the intake ports, well an extremely well ported set of heads done by a proffessional with a great flow bench will support 700hp but stock intake ports will not support 550, and if you knew as much as you claim you would have known that.
the heck with it I don't even want to get into the rest of this stuff, talk to a real engine builder instead of that quack that is building yours just selling parts, you know guys like Charlie Evans, Jon Kaase, or Scott J. aka the mad porter cause you have been reading to many hotrod magizines, and spending money somehere that just wants to sell you stuff.

And backwoodspuller you need to get your expectation into reality, factory iron heads proffesionally ported will support 700 hp maybe a little more, the SCJ DOOE-R castings will support 900hp but thats on a stroker to reach 900hp with a 472 is really pushing it NA thats 1.90hp/cid, and Kaase is making around 2hp/cid with his 815cid prostock engines with alum aftermarket boss heads, and all the tricks. I think you can realistically expect to see 600-700hp with it built right though.

Oh and I just noticed hired guns extimate that a 4.5" bore will make a 478, once again wrong 4.5 bore by 3.85" stroke is 489cid.

 

I highly recommend you contact these guys and get your junk fixed: http://www.msdignition.com/1support.htm

It's not much of a rev limiter if it doesn't limit rev now is it? NO engine can just rev beyond a properly working rev limiter. 4 cylinder rice junk and rotory engines makes even the fastest V8's look like a sloth when it comes to reving. I have yet to see one EVER go past an operational rev limiter.

 

You call me an idiot and full of bull. Sir, you don't know me for if you did you would know I am known by my actions and accomplishments. They speak for themselves. Over the years there has been a few like you who don't understand and cannot reason how someone can win so much or do so much on so little money. When I tried to help them they came off with an attitude much like yours. I finally gave up trying to help them and just have to put up with them spying around trying to figure it out. I will give it to them if they ask but they are stubborn and would rather blow up trying or forever being slow. I have been protested, torn down and even been assaulted by those who envied my accomplishments. A few have even quit the sport rather than try to compete with me. The ones that have taken advise hit the ground winning, years ahead of the competition and end up being my biggest competition.

I didn't even know they still printed Hot Rod. It was a joke when I was 16 and building my own engines. It was just a picture book at best. My first engine book I ever read was written by Grumpy Jenkins. Now if your not making at least 2.3 horses per inch I can't even start to get interested. I pay attention to what the NHRA Pro Stock and Comp Eliminator cars are doing.

My math on the inches was based on a 3.76 stroke. The proper bore for 3.85 stroke would be a 4.450 to get 479". I was thinking of another short stroke project. For your info the current billet Nascar rods are still limited to right around 5000 feet per minute. They are running around 3.2" strokes give or take a .100" depending on the track. 3.2@9000 is only 4800 or 5066 @9500.

My quench heights are based on experience. Not some manufactures super safe starting point. I started at .055 and over the years have just kept cutting it tighter and tighter and keep picking up more and more power. My 23 degree small block is now over 1.9 horses per inch. I drag race weight per cubic inch and I am considered old school because my race engine is 10 years old and I drive a 460 to the races. Though I currently hold only 1 mph record at the moment, I will admit the record is soft and a current 2.7 horse per cubic inch engine would smoke it by a mile. I 'll be building that beast in two years for my boy.

Now look who calling me an idiot, I quote, “Also if your running alum rods, and a rev limiter your an idiot nothing destroys them faster than dropping a cyl out at high rpms, and if your limiter is bouncing 1500rpm over the set point by mashing the throttle get rid of it becasue it's junk, mine will stop my engine at full throttle going into nuetral at 7500rpm within 200rpm of the set point not the 1500 rpm your claiming.”

Did I read that right? Yes I believe so, You said , “mine will stop my engine at full throttle going into nuetral at 7500rpm”. Didn’t someone just get done saying what kind of person would do that. Oh yeah, that would be you, “Also if your running alum rods, and a rev limiter your an idiot nothing destroys them faster than dropping a cyl out at high rpms, “

I would never purposely just run into a rev limiter. I found mine out through accident. The first time was with a manual transmission and missed a speed shift into third. I attributed that over rev to the 40 pound flywheel I was running. The second time was when a 1 3/8 top loader input shaft twisted off on a 9000 rpm launch. The next one was just doing the burnout thing in front of my house with slicks. The last time was when I forgot to turn on the power to the button on my wheel I shifted with and it went 10,000 in first trying to shift it with the button. No engine damage though as mine will probably be fine with a different cam to go ahead and race it up there. I have the parts to do that, just not the right heads to make any power up there.

I run a rev limiter for safety not as a crutch. I used to free rev back in the day and the only thing that limited the rpm was the valve springs. When things were fresh we could get 13,000 out of a 331 in a free rev. I now run an automatic that stalls at 7400. I always leave at full speed. No two step for this kid. Used that way rev limiters hard on parts. Apparently neither of you guys has an engine that will rev very quick. Just to give you a glimpse of how quick my engine revs. With a 15x33 inch slick on dry pavement. In high gear, just stomping the gas pedal down it will hit the limiter and be doing the thunder and lightning show by the time the pedal has hit 1/2 throttle. No matter how quick you think you are it will be on the limiter before you can get it floored. This is spinning an ultra light crank, aluminum rods with 400 gram pistons a 6 inch light weight damper and an 8" converter. Your crank alone probably weighs more than my whole rotating assembly. It will rev right through the MSD easy. If I put a 6000 chip in it and roll into it easy sure it will hold it. Sounds like it is running on one or two cylinders and there is quite the fire show out the exhaust. I have had 3 different MSD boxes and they all do the same thing.
Funny you would drop Bill Millers name. He was the first one to tell me he had been supplying some of the sprint car guys the aluminum rods, He would not say who at the time as it was a secret. That was around the time thay started doing the big torque wheelstands down the straights. Right on his web site he says

"In a street application, using the aluminum rod is a no brainer," BME President, Bill Miller recently said in an interview with an automotive magazine. "I don't know exactly how the myth that aluminum rods can't be used on the street got started, but I'll guess that early manufacturers of aluminum rods, back in the 60s and early-70s, weren't makin' them using the forging process we're using. With the material we've got and they way we manufacture the connecting rods, they'll live a couple hundred thousand miles on the street because a street application is, for the most part, low load. You gotta understand, our basic Aluminum Rod is made for 10,000 rpm and 800-hp. The design criteria for the connecting rod is way overkill for what it's gonna see on the street. We been runnin' aluminum rods on the street for 20 years."

I say using aluminum rods designed for 6000 horsepower in a big block is a no brainer that just makes cents. Using Chinese copies of racing rods is just foolish. Yes, I would agree your engine is a bomb and I really doubt it ever has been anywhere near 8000 under a load unless you just push it out of gear at full throttle again.

As for cylinder heads I stand by what I said. A Ford needs more help on the exhaust than the intake. I never stated a horsepower level you could or couldn’t reach. I don't know without flowing them. I said intake ports are best done by someone with a flow bench who has years of experience. Isn’t that what you said too? That they need to be ported by someone with a flowbench. For serious power I suggested he buy the best aftermarket aluminum heads all done. Can you even read?

 

well i understud some of that but i am still learning and i lookied up prices between hbeam and alum and well honestly i think the hbeam will do fine i decided today i am gonna build a new motor and put my motor in a stock puller so i am starting over from scarch but i am excited so far i am leaning towards a 490 stroker i talked to our club pre he said the 480 cube limet woth the +2% i should be able to slid buy other than that hbeams and a good forged dome custom ground roller cam looks like the way i see myself going and staying with the victor and the c8ve heads we were able to get them opend up more than i thought plus my victor is ported already and stainless valves shoud do i was told today thou that i dont need brass guides for stainless? so i dont know about that but if someone could help me out with some info on the 490 stroker that would be great i have only heard about it and i only have jegs bookes and summit the baisic stuff to look at and well for a ford they arnt much help so please keep the advice comming it is rilly helping and i am learning alot thaxs to all

 

sorry guys i am a horrible typer i will try to typ a bit more understandilbe. i looked back at my own post and i have a hard time understanding them thanks brad. and monster you know your stuff and so do you hired gun you both just got 2 ways of looking at the same thing and that is great for me cause i learn twice as much. i do like what gun said about low budget power i just became a dad and am in the prosses of getting my girl a ring. i am just blue collar with a low budget but i love truckpulling but i suxs cause i compet with guys that have more cash than i do but some have less but eather way it is a fun time. i am kinda cinfuse between a stroker kit and just stepping it up to dome pistons with the better cast heads> if i only came make 700hp that is ok there is other ways to make power like good carb and air flow it is a bummer that i cant go over a 850cfm but it is rules. i have headr of a kit thou to get 1100cfm or more for the 850 but maybe just a myth? i know alum heads and bigger carb will help me reach my goal but look at is this way if i go to some pulls and mybe run a light mod and i have a 850cfm and cast heads and kick some butt now how cool is that? i hope ya all dont mind me asking question's i dont want to stur up and drama i respect what everyone is saying i dont think anyone on here so far is an idot. heck look what we like the mighty blue oval thats gotta count for something.

 

Hired Gun the more you talk the more you make yourself look stupid, give it up. liets go back to the post before your last one you mentioned valve springs failing and how the only ones worth anything were the Isky springs your currently running, if you actually knew anything you would know that there is only 2 manufactors of valve springs in the world, and the Isky springs your bragging about are made by the same company that makes all the ones you mentioned failed all the time.
Next I have read the articles about alum rods going 100,000 miles on the street the comment was yeah someone has probably done it. And also goes onto to say the only application for alum rods is short run engines, that need to reduce reciprocating weight when frequent maintanance is not an issue, and the 1/10th life expectancy isn't a problem. They should not be used in endurance application. And give it up on the sprint car guys, like i said living as close as I do to the sprint car capitol of the world, I know several of the engine builders around here, and several of the world of outlaw guys live within 10 milesof here, they are running alum rods.
and 13,000 rpm on a 331 yeah right thats all I am gonna say.
And to turn the part about running a rev limiter and bieng an idiot with alum rods around onto me since I run one, notice I don't happen to run alum rods.
and you not bieng impressed till an engine is making 2.7hp/cid well maybe with a supercharger, or you must be a god because naturally aspirated that type of power is maxed out prostock stuff on alky, on a good day if you hold your face just right, and your name happens to be Jon Kaase, which yours is not.
And appearently you have the fastest reving engine on the face of the planet that can blast through a rev limiter like that, so I guess that does make you God.
Oh and lets go back to your comment about cam bearings while we are here, your statement was roller cam bearings were a gimmick designed by machinest to make money or something close to that, hmmm funny how the top 5 engine masters engines all had roller cam bearings in them. Guess those guys are just bieng fooled by thier machinest oh wait they mostly are machinest themselves. And wait again all the aftermarket blocks for big block fords, are designed to run them oh well I guess the builders of some of the top engines in the world have all been fooled by these corrupt machinest cause you know better. And the new engine masters rules say no roller cam bearings this year guess they decided that they were just too dangerous or something to allow in that competition.
my suggestion is stay with small block chevies cause it's obvious you don't know squat about big block fords.
Backwoods you can listen to this guy if you want but it's probably gonna cost you in the end, Brad knows his stuff, and is a good source and I can help too if you want but this other guy is gonna steer ya down a very expensive road.

Oh and if you want to see, and hear what mine sounds like at 7600 rpm here is a link to a video.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/....php?id=227151

 

Every time you post you are quoting out of context or just making stuff up about what you think I’m saying. Just stick to the black and white. I never said I couldn’t get interested in anything under 2.7 horses per inch. I said 2.3. Again. Can you read? By interested meaning I really perk up and pay attention to what anyone who is making that amount of power naturally aspirated. I respect what Jon Kaase has done for Ford big blocks. He is a real innovator. He just isn’t on my list of people to watch. 1.9 horses per inch can be built by anyone with a Summit catalog. I don’t buy anything from them. I pay attention to people like David Nickens, Bob Panella, Bill Jenkins, Craig Schuck, Allen Johnson, Todd and Allen Patterson. These guys can and do build engines that are making 2.7 horsepower per cubic inch all the time.

Does that bug you that a 310” sb is making 837+ horsepower? I personally run with Ford guys that are making 730 horses on 285” sbf. No blowers here. Just a couple Dominators on a home built sheet metal intake . Same guy has a 343” SC1 headed sbf that is over 900 hp. He uses a Lenco and he spins it 11,000 on the little one and 10,200 on the big one for the launch. My machinist personal car is 399 ci and it makes 998 hp. My dog makes 680 out of 357”. All this on race gas. No nitrous, no alcohol, no forced induction, no BS and none of us are God. I’m sorry you can’t understand it but just because Jon Kaase or anyone you know can’t do it doesn’t make it not so.

Sure I know the Isky’s and Psi springs are made in the same facility. Why would you think I didn’t know that? Each brand still has proprietary properties that can only be used on that brand. Only the Isky spring is made with that patented material and process that allows them to have a 1000 racing mile warranty. The Psi’s are close but still not on the same level. I bench check mine every year and they just passed their 5th test and have still not lost more than one pound. When my Psi were down 25 pounds I retired them. That only took one season.

You are starting to sound a lot like one of the guys I used race with. He is full of “yeah rights”, “my converter guy” or “my machinist” blah blah blah, knows a lot more about this than you do. I have tried to help them and even offered to trade cars with them for a day so they could see for themselves. Nope they would rather video my every move then spend hours and hours watching them in slow motion on the big screen at the bar they are sponsored by trying to figure it out. Other than a few Top Loaders and Dana 60 gears I have never broke any engine parts. Springs gone bad but never broken a single engine or had a dnf due to engine anything since 1983.

13,000 is not unheard of. Smokey Yunick had a sbc set up for Indy car use that made power up there and was used like that. We were only doing that to store energy in the 40-60 pound flywheels we were using to launch with. That’s how we did it back then. This was before the first aluminum heads came out. Heads were built up with brass and ported into the brass. I have a buddy who has an old Pontiac injected alcohol engine that was bored and stroked out to 500” in the late 60’s and it has aluminum rods and half the ports in those heads are brass. He bought it out of the old drag boat it was in and put a six pack manifold and pro mud bogged it for a couple years until he was head injured in an accident. Those rods were some of the first ones ever made and they never failed. Back to the drag engines, some guys even went so far as to remove all the counter weights from the cranks, run very little oil in the crank and gear cases in an effort to just set a record. Engines got scattered all the time doing dumb stuff like that. Usually dropped valves. Never did lose an aluminum rod doing that. This was bare knuckle drag racing where the only rules was weight per cubic inches and no nitro. Both rules were broken all the time and since the advent of electronic scales, fuel testers and engine pumps all those old records have been thrown out. Again I doubt you could understand any of this.

I have personally discussed the roller cam bearing deal with Todd Patterson, David Nickens and Craig Schuck. They all use them but every one of them said it was worth nothing on the dyno and when I asked why bother the best any of them could offer was well it must help and every little bit counts. I then asked well then why not do it to the crank and rod bearings like the motorcycle engines do. Uhh well then they said that the rollers would never support the loads that a crank and rods were dishing out. These same guys will spend $4000 on carbon/carbon brakes and $3000 on titanium spools in an effort to cut 5 more pounds off the rotating weight on a car. I think it would be cheaper to just OD on prune juice. It would be a lot cheaper. The oil over Babbitt or lead bearings will support a much higher load and make less friction than all those rollers pushing around in all that oil. On a roller lifter it’s the roller bearings that are the weak link. That’s when I decided that the rollers cam bearings were a gimmick and the more I ask around the more I find I’m not alone on that. Crane is working to get rid of the needles in lifters and have already released a line of pro shaft rockers that have no needles.

If coated engine bearings really had any advantage then they would come that way. The bearing manufactures have invested millions in the design of these bearings and if they could make them better they would.

It’s hard to believe you have over 4000 posts. Posts like yours are why I rarely come around. It’s hard to get an intelligent conversation with a MonsterBaby around.

 

Ok you win I am an idiot never built a decent running engine in my life, and of coarse anyone running a small block chevy must know his stuff much better than me. And of coarse in all your drag racing experience you must know so much more about what the pulling trucks must use, and of coarse I am sure that the pullers that run proffesionally will be totally disappointed to know that thier rigs aren't really turning 9700rpm for 30-35 seconds with those steel rods they are running, and the at the roller cam bearings are junk too. In fact this is about all I can handle I beleive I will just stay the heck out of this section since Iam such an idiot your about the 5 fifth person with all the great knowledge of the world that has proved me wrong once again. And those guys that you are quoting actually won the engine masters challenge the last 3 yrs running.
And lets not forget that the big block fords built by all the proffesionals must really be amatures since getting a lousy 1200hp NA with double the CID of your great engine.
so you just have fun in here posting all your wisdom and dispell all the big block and engine building myths put out by people like me.
BTW maybe someday you will learn but I doubt it.

 

roller cam bearing, heres what i"ve heard about them," oil flows thru most racing engines at 8-12 gpm anything you can do to reduce the amount of oil that must be pumped thru the engine means less drag and more horsepower.although roller cam bearings may increase frictional drag as the rollers spin against the cam journals,the loss is more than offset by savings in oil flow demands. roller cam bearings get plenty of cooling and lubrication from oil splash off the crank.when pressing them into the block the outer bearing races cover up the oil holes in the cam bores .this saves about 1 gpm of oil flow in the engine and this results in a small horsepower gain due to reduced oil pump drag." besides it gets rid of 5 oil leaks in the engine .this little tidbit of info brought to you by the the other bbf board

 

hello to all i just checked out monsters ranger and even got to hear it run sounds good monster. she rilly gets up go's and turns some good r'sss last night i looked up hired guns poto of his motor wow it looks awsome i would love to hear it and see what it can do and monster and gun i have read all your post's a few times like i said i am hungry for knowaldge and i want to make alot of power cheap. you both make good points and you both know more than i do you guys are way to smart to be bickering on here and putting eacother down. everyone has there own way and thoughts that is waht is so cool about reading thease posts you can learn from ecother. i will say this my frend he runs a truck like mine same engins except he runs alum heads and keath black flat top hyperteknics same cam as mine and intake he won the points this year. and my motor i have speed pro flat top hyperteckincs and i hit 7200 rpm and i know i am makeing close or may be a bit over 500hp so i guess i have had good luck with the hypers and so dose he but i dont want to chance it so i am going with a forged dome that much i know and alum rods? i ask a frend of mine he runs a chev in open class a 496 makeing 1200hp he runs alum rods and told me they last forever and he has used the same set over and over atleast 10 times beeing pulled out. so yea i am confused and still not shure if i should run hbeams or alum? in my opion there both good. but anyhow i listen to what everyone is saying and i am rilly likeing what i hear opions from both sides that is very cool and guys rember we all bleed blue