I have a set of these heads from the junkyard. I wanna put them on my 76 F150's 460. I have heard that it wil increase my compression ratio to 9.3:1. I can't see any problems with them going on after a rebuild, but I have a question or two:

Should I learn all I can about removing the smog bumps in the bowl area and go ahead and do it myself? I already plan on port matching to an Edelbrock Performer intake (using the gaskets). Should I stick with the stock valve sizes or go larger? Will the D3 pushrods work with the D0VE C castings?
My future plans are a cam, built for torque. I am not into any block work at this point, such as decking. I just want a bolt on job right now. I already run a double roller timing set at straight up.

Any other ideas? I want to have these heads where they will not need upgrading any time soon. I think pedestal rockers (stock) will be fine for my intended rpm range. (under 5500)
Thanks, all!
Mark

 

As for porting you might go visit Scott at reincarnation-automotive.com Stock valves should be fine unless you plan to go after real big horsepower. Then you might as well go with a set of Edelbrock Heads. or CJ Heads. If it was me I would go with alittle heavier valve spring. Scott is the man when it comes to heads, he is always been great about helping people on this board.

 

on a 460 there are a lot better choices than the edelbrocks. Scotts site has some very good info on it, and worth the $25 onetime fee for info on porting these heads.
I would look to put in some one piece ferrera stainless valves in those heads since they are really not that expensive, you can find them on evilbay for around $135 a set, and yes a set of springs for whatever cam you choose would be a good choice since those would have a set of 35yr old springs that are probably getting just a little tired.
Also I would look to find some better locks, and retainers while your in there since you said you didn't want to have to do this later so might as well do it right now.
Yes pedestal mount rockers would be ok but the Dove's should have studs in them already don't they?

 

Great info, guys... Yes, the D0VE's have screw in studs, but they are positive stop-type, with a shoulder. They can be swapped with like bbc studs...
I was reading an article in Car Crap magazine with a 460 buildup. (You can tell they don't like Fords) They built some awesome power from a reman 460 long block, using D0VE C heads. They got a cam from Erson with the kit (springs, lifters, retainers, locks) and only had to buy .050 offset locks, because the installed spring height wasn't high enough, and they didn't want to pull the heads to machine the spring pockets deeper. They got close to 500 lb-ft torque with their low compression setup! (8.8:1 or so). Sounds like an awesome cam! I can provide a link for those who want to see it.
They kept the stock valve size. I am considering going to a CJ size valve, but maybe I should keep costs down and go with stainless valves of stock size???

I am thinking now of roller rockers since reading the car craft article... Worthy upgrade, I am getting from you guys...

Thanks for the info on Scott's site. I will check that out and bookmark it; sounds right up my alley!
Any more ideas are more that welcome!
Mark

 

For your info trinogt, you will need to replace the OE rocker studs to after market as well as get a set of guide plates. I did the same thing with a set 69 heads. I used comp cams raised guide plates and magnum studs. The guide plate PN is 4834-8 and the PN for the studs I used is 45034-8 (both are Comp Cams PN's). These parts should bolt right on, hope this helps, Dave

Oh yeah, I thought since you were considering head work and a cam I should tell you I bought a Compcams K kit pn K34-239-4(can anyone see a Comp Cams pattern here?) which is an Extreme 4x4 cam that already comes matched with everything you need for the job. And i have to say this cam is pretty good cam in my opinion. I cant say what the hp and tq is cause i dont have any idea, but I can tell you this thing will pull like nothing ive felt before, so wont tell you how many front axle shafts and u-joints I have gone through.

 

I got that kit from comp about a month and a half ago to put in the motor for my pulling truck. let me tell you its the last piece ill ever buy from comp. I figured im going to be turnign it pretty hard so ill get a kit so the springs and everything match. well after about an hour and a half on the motor im having some serios problems. the stupid thing wont turn over 4500 with no load on it just in park. so i pulled a valve cover to find a a couple loose rocers and a hell of alot of metal fillings on top of the heads. so i pull the intake and to my surprise there were about 4 lobes still on the cam. so i run over to summit and pick up another cam i was going to get a crane but they didnt have anything in stock for what i wanted so i went with the edelbrock RPM cam. I get home and throw it together the next day. get everything buttoned up and fire the old girl up. about 5 min into the breakin it starts knokin. pull it apart that night an it spun number 8 rod. all of the rods were either to or thru the copper. i was pissed. but what can you expect when you pump half a camshaft thru the oiling system. I havent got a chance to get ahold of comp yet to see what thelly do about it. i just havent been able to fing time between swaping trannys and buildin driveshafts. but the seasons over for the year so ill get to it here sometime.

 

The stuff left behind from a cam going flat is HARD to get out of a motor. That stuff just seems to stick to everything and settle everywhere because it is so fine. The motor has to be completely torn apart and cleaned,mainly all the oil galleys,lifterbores and pump.

 

i cleaned everything when i tore it down and had the crank turned and put a new pump in it. so far so good. ive got 6 pulls on the motor an i like the cam so far. i need an intake, a bigger set of headers, and a bigger stall converter and i a new drive shaft i think im going to go 1480's 4.188 cross with 1.5 caps if i can. for the first season im quite happy.

 

Hey, that's good stuff, fellas! I am interested in that kit with the already-raised guide plates, and take the studs with it. I am definately planning on matching springs for whatever cam I get.
That's too bad about your wiped lobes. What happened there? I have heard a few too many stories about that lately... Did you find the cause?
I read about a nice combo on RHP site using a non-ported D0VE C casting that had decent numbers for torque. I had started polishing the combustion chamber on my D0VE's, and maybe I will keep it at that for mods? I probably don't need the flow numbers for the bottom end power I want...
Just throwing more stuff out there for ya! I know dyno pulls have proven 700 hp normally aspirated with ported D0VEs, and that just blows my mind, with a single 4 barrel carb to boot!
My truck is not the lightest around being a Supercab F150, but I would like it to launch hard and feel more nimble than it does. I have a little 600 cfm Edelbrock and factory cast manifold on there now, and she lays down very early on. I'm sure the intake has a lot to do with it... Anyone bolt on a Performer and 650-750 vac sec onto a stock 460 with great results?
Mark

 

I used a Weiand Stealth intake with a speed demon 850 with mechanical secondaries, if I can keep my tires hooked up it'll take off like a sob, till about 53 to 5500. But I think the problem there is that im still using the duraspark ignition, which is next to get replaced with an aftermarket system as soon as I get the money scrounged up. I also have an Edelbrock street pump pn EDL-1726 feeding the fuel. I used the Summit engine rebuild kit that has speed pro piston pn H-535cp-30 for about 10.2:1 compression with the above mentioned Comp Cams equipment with no problems at all(after only 3000 miles), but I cant use run anything less than 93, but I live close to several dirt tracks so good race gas isnt hard to get to. I should mention the only road time the truck sees is to and from mud holes and trail rides.

ford300, i hate to hear you had that kinda problem with Comp Cam stuff, a lot of ford and chevy people around here use Comp stuff with good results. I hope they make good on there products.

If wish I had the money to put in some dyno time for some tuning but thats outta the question. Does anyone have that desktop Dyno they could run for me? I would greatly appreciate it, Dave

 

'If you can keep your tires hooked up'??? Now that's what I'm talking about! That's the effect I am going after. Problem is, I won't be changing pistons anytime soon. My engine is tight as-is, but because I don't know the history, I have to assume it was rebuilt with standard type pistons... How will I know (with the heads pulled) what the compression ratio of the pistons would be? I mean, I can measure how far down the bore at TDC (deck), gasket thickness, and combustion chamber cc (factory cc specs), but what about the specific pistons? I have been told that factory type pistons with a D0VE C swap will get me around 9.3:1, so quite far from your compression.
How can a company advertise a piston's compression ratio without knowing your combustion chamber size and related specs?
Mark

 

When I put D0VE heads on my old truck w/ a 73 lincoln 460, I had to use the push rods from the 1970 heads. The 73 lincoln push rods that were with the block were too long and the D0VE valves never seated. After tearing the heads back off and locating the old 70 push rods in the garage, and inserting them, she fired up fine.
I didn't notice that anyone answered that part of your question above so I thought I would chip in.
Just my experience, T

 

Hey, thanks for that! I needed to know that too, since the pushrods I grabbed with the heads were in bad shape (several bent).
Say, you're just the man I should talk to! Since you did this swap, how was the power improvement? Quite noticeable? Or just marginal?
Mark

 

Sorry it took so long to reply. To answer your question, the D3 heads I took off were in REEEEALLY bad shape. When I bought this truck, it barely made it home with those D3 heads and a carb that you could wiggle the air horn seperate from the base. When I took the heads off, I held the heads up and could see sunlight coming through some of the valves.
Shortening this long story, it would be hard to determine just how much difference was due to the 70 heads vs the actual shape of the old heads.
I can say though that my buddy has a 73 lincoln engine in his 73 F250, which was identical to my set up, except for my trucks 70 heads. Let's just say that I had a bruise on the back of my head from whip lashing the back window on excelleration and he didn't. No regrets here.
Good luck with your project and use premium gas. Tim

 

He has stock D3 heads and you have D0VE C heads, yet his vehicle is faster??? am I missing something here? lol

He must have a fresher engine or something? Rebuilt with higher compression pistons?
Mark