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I was wondering what i gotta do to get my thermostat working in my truck. It always stays at Cold... its never worked since i got it. HOw would i replace this, Doesnt it go to the radiator. What do i gotta do and know when doing this. Thanks.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Jan-02 AT 10:34 PM (EST)]It's NOT always the thermostat that's causing the problem.
Is the gauge WORKING ?
Let's find out.
Go to the temperature sender and have someone help you check it.
If you ground out the connector the gauge should PIN to the right.
* Caution : Only apply it to ground for 1-2 seconds Maximum.
Then get back for more instructions.
The theromstat is inside the thermostat housing.
What engine do you have ?
Dennis
Oh....Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions As:
"I'm Saving Up MY Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's"
78 F-150 429CJ C6 ,Silver w/Explorer Pkge
641/2 Mustang,Pre-World's Fair Car #8092
64 Fairlane S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang.Sunlit Gold 80,000 miles
Does the heater work? Is the engine actually cold? If so, the thermostat is on the top front of the engine under the housing that your top radiator hose is connected to. It is usually only held on by 2 bolts. to cee if it is stuck open, remove the radiator cap with the engine cold. See if the coolant is moving after you start the engine. if it is moving right after a cold start-up, drain the radiator, remove the housing and upper radiator hose at the housing, and remove the 2 bolts that hold it on. It is possible that someone has removed the thermostat and that would keep the coolant from heating up to normal temp.
If the engine is actually warming up then take the red wire off of the sending unit, which is usually located near the front of the engine and only has 1 red wire running to it. With the key off, unplug the wire from the sending unit and groung it to the engine by taking a short piece of wire and putting one end in the plug and the other end to either the engine or preferably to the - side of the battery. Then get in the truck and turn the key on for about 5 sec. and see if the gauge goes up to H. If it does, then replace the sending unit. They are only a few bucks. It would be a good idea to drain the radiator first to avoid getting coolant all over your engine when you remove the sending unit. Make sure to use sealer on the threads so it won't leak.
Jimmy
Its a 68, 360, f100. The Gauge always reads Cold. never moves at all. Could u give me more basic directions on how to do this. Like what to chekc to see if its broken, i really dont know where to start. Thanks
There should be a wire attached to the temperature sending unit
You disconnect from the unit and ground it to the engine block say with a cotter pin or a small screwdriver.
Now you go into the cab and turn the key on > Watch the temperature
gauge > Does it get pinned to the HOT side of the gauge?
If it does ,Then the Gauge works >
If it Doesn't ,you need to replace it.
ALSO, Do you have a circuit tester Light ?
Then ,Check the wire for a Pulse of electricity with the key on.
If there is a pulse of current ,You know the Instrument cluster Voltage Regulator is working. If there isn't, That needs replacing.
SO,
It is possible that the sending unit is Faulty>
Check for TEFLON tape on it. If it has Teflon tape on it > Remove it and go to an auto parts store and buy the Correct Sealant (It allows current to flow through it) The parts guy will know.
If the gauge still doesn't work after it's hooked back up. Then you will have to replace the dending unit.
Dennis
Oh....Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions As:
"I'm Saving Up MY Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's"
78 F-150 429CJ C6 ,Silver w/Explorer Pkge
641/2 Mustang,Pre-World's Fair Car #8092
64 Fairlane S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang.Sunlit Gold 80,000 miles
Had the same problem after replacing my radiator and t-stat. I thought my radiator was just too good. But I figured it must still reach temp right? Well, the t-stat housing started to leak a little, so I decided to reseal it back up with a new gasket - low and behold the t-stat wasn't centered allowing coolant to pass by it all the time. I'd check this first...
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