I have added 3 photos in my extras gallery. with the spring in place pushing down on the shorter arm moves the longer arm back towards the cowl.
Unhook the spring, there should only be 1/3-1/2 rotation of tension on it. I was able to unhook mine just by hand, but I'd suggest you hold it in place with a heavy rag and unhook the end with a screw driver in case someone has put more tension on it than it should have, we don't want any broken or bloody fingers or worse.
grab the top arm while holding the lower push it down. The arm shown in "hood hinge 1" should pivot, as shown in "hood hinge 2". I'd bet it is frozen! If it is free, you should be able to grab both arms and swing them up and down together easily. Lubricate the pivot with a little bit of white grease, NOT WD40! WD40 absorbs moisture and the hinge will quickly rust and freeze again, work it until working easily then replace the spring with only 1/3-1/2 turn tension. That should fix your hinge problem.

 

thanks AX RACER . i will try this out this coming weekend . this is just what i needed a couple of photos of the hinge in action . i called mid fiftys today and all info seems to be leading back to someone that owned the truck before i got it put new springs in and did it incorrectly . i will keep you updated maybe this will help someone else down the road .

 

Sounds like springs to me too. I've only ever had trouble with the hood staying up at the cowl when shut, but I think they all do that.

 

I think 55Effie's problem is frozen pivots where I indicated in the photos but if you are having problems with the back not shutting completely at the cowl, adjust the striker latch in front of the radiator further forwards. The latch plate can be stubborn to move, try drawing a line around it where it is now then take it out completely making sure the bolts are free and reinstall it further forward than your original line. That should solve the problem.

 

Just tagging in so I can see the conclusion of this problem. This is a new one on me. Jag

 

hi guys. just wanted to let everyone know that i haven't forgotten to update the progress on the hinges. things have gotten kind of busy this week with christmas and all . i do promise to let everyone know how this turns out . thanks again for all the input .

 

just wanted to give an update . it turns out that it was a couple of things one of the pivot points ON BOTH SIDES were not working and the springs were way too tight . i had an idea it would be something simple . THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO . now i have the same ol hood problems as almost everyone else it needs a gentle push down on the rear corners to close . but considering what i just fixed that is a piece of cake . MERRY CHRISTMAS ALL .

 

Now that they are working it's time to take them off and front hinge it. That's what I did!

 

i was thinking the same thing , i really don't like the fender lines ( aftermarket repops) . but at least i know how to get around that issue . many thanks AX racer you were right on the money . those photos were just what the doctor ordered lol.

 

Just out of curiosity....I wonder how it would work to remove the springs and just use a hood prop like the late model cars, or remove the springs and use a set of the shocks that they use on the mini vans?
Doc

 

I don't think the back of the hood will stay down without the springs they pull the back down as well as hold the hood up when open from what I can tell. Plus the hinges would bend in unexpected and unplanned ways while opening and closing. I am using gas lifts with my front hinged hood, and could possibly be used to support the hood, as would a support rod, but they still wouldn't allow the removal of the springs in the stock hinges IMHO. I haven't tested the theory since I gave up on the stock hinges, but I also think the proper hood operation has to do with the correct alignment of the front sheet metal first.