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Hey guys:
I am trying to replace my ignition switch and the housing that tightens the old one to the dash is frozen in place. meaning I cant get the old on out. Im afraid if I start getting to crazy Im going to damage the dash. I have put the key in it to hold it and hit the bezel peice with a hammer and it jus tries to spin in the hole in the dash. These two things are fused together! Any ideas? I just dont want to damage the dash more than I have to. Im not worried about saving the old switch or bezel.
Thanks, Jdog
Here's what I would do. Remove the instrument panel (8 screws). You might have to reach up under there to unscrew the speedomenter cable. Once it's out you'll have good access to the ignition switch. Take a look at the attached photo. See the little tong on the top of the switch. I'm thinking that the slot it goes into is warbled out. If it really is stuck together you can now spray a tad of penetrating oil in there. Anyhow, grab the old switch with vice grips and I'm thinking you should be able to turn the barrel trim piece and back it off the switch. I usually put a slot screw driver blade on one of the trim piece notches and give it a gentle whack. Good luck.
I am afraid of tearing up the dash. Its 30 plus years old and not cheap if possible to replace. If I start cutting, I'll mess up the dash, which might not be unavoidable. I do appreciate the reply though. It always seems the most easy jobs turns out to be the biggest pain in the ***. I think taking out the instrument panel off is a smart move.
Thanks guys, Jdog
Jdog, one thing I forgot to mention. Disconnect your negative battery cable before you start screwing around with the ignition switch. I recall a lot of smoke and some burned fingers sometime in the distant past.
jor
Hold on Fellers, there may be a better way. Get a paper clip, turn the lock to the acc position, push the paper clip into the little hole and then turn the key counterclockwise until it becomes horozontal. At this point the cylinder should come out. Once it is out, reach under the dash with one hand and the other on the bezel. Push the two together and twist counter clockwise, the two will seperate and then you can do what you need to so with the switch.
Hey guys:
Thanks to you guys I got the cylinder out. How in the heck do i get the new cylinder in the switch housing? I got the old one out with paper clip deal. It wont go all the way in. Im afraid to beat on it too much.
Thanks, jdog
Last edited by jowilker; Dec 14, 2005 at 04:40 AM.
If I remember right, you can pull the cylinder out, if thats what you want, but you still have the old ignition assembly in there. Why not replace it all while you're at it? Is the key switch bad, or is it the ignition assembly? The paper clip deal, and a screwdriver inserted into the remaining slot is all it takes to steal your truck. I know this from past experience.
I do have a new assembly and cylinder. Im replacing it all. I just cant get the new cylinder in the new switch. It just doesnt go all the way in. I have never replaced one so I just dont want to break it. Im sure there is a nack to it.
By the way the bezel was seized onto the switch or ignition assembly. I had use a dremel to cut it off. The switch was shot. The prior owner must have used some high strength lock tight or something. There was a reddish color on the threads when I cut them loose.
Anyway, thanks again, jdog
Did you put it in with the key horozontal (key teeth pointed towards door) like you took it out?
You don't have to use the paper clip but it basically is a reverse action from removal.
guys there is got to be a secret to this thing. I have the cylinder and switch in my hands and they will not go together. Both are identical to the old ones. One end on the cylinder is bigger than the other. The same thing goes for the inside of the switch. The only way for the two to line up is when the key and switch are both turned to the start position. But the switch is spring loaded in that position and does not stay. HHHHHHHEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPP!!!
This has turned into a mojor pain
I have had a simular problem with locking cabinets at work. Once the cylinder was removed we had to use the key to put the new cylinder in. It would not simply slide in, the key had to be in the cyl and "jimmied" about, in order for the new one to take. and the cyl had to be at a paticular position. such as all the way to the left, or right. Hope this helps.
Well guys I gave up and took it to a local garage. The guy did it in about two seconds. I asked what he did and he said he couldnt tell me. There is a secret to this thing. Anyway Im done! Thanks for all the help.
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