Dumb question...
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Dumb question...
I'm probably wrong, but here goes...I've been reading that swapping 66 sheet metal onto a 73-79 frame is a fairly simple operation. Does that mean that the 73-79 radiator support would work on the 66 chassis? Would you need to use a 66 support on the 73-79 chassis? It seems too easy, so it probably is. I'm thinking about doing the frame swap thing to make brake/steering upgrades alot easier. So if anybody wants to throw their .02 in here, I'm all ears (eyes?).
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From: Napa
I haven't done this myself and am only going off of photos I've seen. You have to use the 66 support (or try to modify the newer one) in order for the front fenders to align properly.
Remember...there is no such thing as a dumb question...just dumb answers!
Remember...there is no such thing as a dumb question...just dumb answers!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Originally Posted by magee
I'm probably wrong, but here goes...I've been reading that swapping 66 sheet metal onto a 73-79 frame is a fairly simple operation. Does that mean that the 73-79 radiator support would work on the 66 chassis? Would you need to use a 66 support on the 73-79 chassis? It seems too easy, so it probably is. I'm thinking about doing the frame swap thing to make brake/steering upgrades alot easier. So if anybody wants to throw their .02 in here, I'm all ears (eyes?).
In theory, you can lift the cab and front clip in one piece and roll the chassis out from under and the new chassis back under and reconnect the 6 bolts and eventually drive away. There are other things that have to be delt with that connect from the sheet metal to the chassis, like wiring, brake & steering parts etc. I plan on doing this one day if I ever get another chance, with a place to do the lift. You should be able to do it with the hood still on, but it would be much easier with it off.
John
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Thanks for the input. There sure are alot of decisions to make and none of them are very easy. Setting the truck up with a "modern" chassis sounds good, but I guess I need to figure out if it's cost/time effective to do it that way.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
magee, Unfortunally too many guys just jump in on a project, sometimes in the middle, sometime on the end without much thought or plan. Since you are still considering, What engine, tranny, rear, 2wd/4wd, puller, cruisor, daily driver, are you want ing to end up with? What do you have now that is important to have when complete other than the body?
I like the styling of my 66, love the power of the FE, think I want a 4wd for my next project. I have bought a 86 4wd with a HO 351W and a later 89 bronco with LS rear and AOD tranny. The 351/AOD should allow me to tow, and have some economy over the FE. All I have to do now is decide on which chassis to build it back on.
John
I like the styling of my 66, love the power of the FE, think I want a 4wd for my next project. I have bought a 86 4wd with a HO 351W and a later 89 bronco with LS rear and AOD tranny. The 351/AOD should allow me to tow, and have some economy over the FE. All I have to do now is decide on which chassis to build it back on.
John
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Basically, I'm working toward a driver, but with limited road time. The truck has alot of sentimental value and I'd like for it to still be around to pass on to the kids one day. I like the I-6 that's in it, but hate the 3 on the tree. An auto tranny is in the plan, as well as power brakes and possibly power steering for a quicker steering ratio. No plans for an engine swap...yet, but I am contemplating building a 300 using Clifford parts to drop in when the 240 finally quits running. The whole chassis swap doesn't bother me unless I run into registration issues since the chassis is not "correct". I love the truck, but as you know, there's alot of room for improvement. I'm just trying not to get too far into this without doing my homework.
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I like column shifters, they confuse the hell out of young(er) people; "what is that, it's an automatic, but it has a clutch?!" LOL!
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They're definitely different. It doesn't bother me, but my wife can't drive it (like that's a bad thing?). I'd like for her to be able to drive it since it did belong to her late grandfather.
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hey magee i just did something very simalar it was easy just to give ya some derections on what to do is first of all get youe donor frame all stripped down and fix what needs to be fixed like fuel lines and brake lines if you can leave the master cylender with the newer frame that makes hooking up the brakes alot easier and as long as you use the brake rod from the newer truck you should be able to hook up your master cylender and booster with no proulbem your older sheet metal should bolt right up to the newer frame you may need to move the rear end the get the box to line up with the wheels and you will need to drill new holes for the box it is not to bad but get the body set on it and then hope that the box will line up with you rear. you can make it work with out moveing the rear end if ya dont mind a little more of a gap between the cab an box the swap i did was a 4 wheel so i could be wrong if your is a 2wheel
Last edited by backwoodspuller; Dec 11, 2005 at 10:22 PM.
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From: North Texas
Originally Posted by backwoodspuller
hey magee i just did something very simalar it was easy just to give ya some derections on what to do is first of all get youe donor frame all stripped down and fix what needs to be fixed like fuel lines and brake lines if you can leave the master cylender with the newer frame that makes hooking up the brakes alot easier and as long as you use the brake rod from the newer truck you should be able to hook up your master cylender and booster with no proulbem your older sheet metal should bolt right up to the newer frame you may need to move the rear end the get the box to line up with the wheels and you will need to drill new holes for the box it is not to bad but get the body set on it and then hope that the box will line up with you rear. you can make it work with out moveing the rear end if ya dont mind a little more of a gap between the cab an box the swap i did was a 4 wheel so i could be wrong if your is a 2wheel
Last edited by jowilker; Dec 12, 2005 at 03:49 AM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Back on topic. Magee, staying with the I-6 will will make things easier since it was available through 79. My choice "FE" stops at 76.
There are several things that go hand in hand that makes upgrades work better when a total swap is done. To use power steering you have to have steering column, gear, pump, lines, and correct engine brackets. The column needs to be correct for the tranny that you plan on using, whether it is floor shift granny 1st or an automatic. The disc brakes are more disirable for their stopping power, and that part of the swap is more generic over the others. For me it makes more sense to do it all at once.
Then you get to the second aspect. Is it easier to swap everything under the existing truck or swap the existing sheetmetal over to a new chassis. While neither is really complicated, it is a heavy work job, that improves the quality of owning a classic truck.
I have been involved with several swap unders, have parted out several trucks removing the sheet metal to sell, so I could reduce my cost in the upgrade. I have two that I have -0- in my materials because of selling parts that I didn't use. I have yet to do the sheetmetal swap but really want to one.
enough ramblin
John
There are several things that go hand in hand that makes upgrades work better when a total swap is done. To use power steering you have to have steering column, gear, pump, lines, and correct engine brackets. The column needs to be correct for the tranny that you plan on using, whether it is floor shift granny 1st or an automatic. The disc brakes are more disirable for their stopping power, and that part of the swap is more generic over the others. For me it makes more sense to do it all at once.
Then you get to the second aspect. Is it easier to swap everything under the existing truck or swap the existing sheetmetal over to a new chassis. While neither is really complicated, it is a heavy work job, that improves the quality of owning a classic truck.
I have been involved with several swap unders, have parted out several trucks removing the sheet metal to sell, so I could reduce my cost in the upgrade. I have two that I have -0- in my materials because of selling parts that I didn't use. I have yet to do the sheetmetal swap but really want to one.
enough ramblin
John
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