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I think all you need is a key-on hot source, but I'm not positive. I can check and let you know tomorrow. Hopefully someone can chime in here and let you know for sure.
I'll dig into my wiring book tomorrow and check. I just did this last summer, I can't remember if I had a seperate fused source at my fuse block or not, as it was the Painless Wiring harness in my '53. See if it is a Holley or Edelbrock, then check their websites. I'm not sure about Holley, but I know Edelbrock has alot of tech stuff on their site
Last edited by 53fatfndr; Dec 9, 2005 at 01:06 AM.
Yes, you need to run inside the cab and find a hot in run source. The factory hooked it to the alternator, but the aftermarket carbs do not work as well there since the voltage is lower than 12 volts.
You can get what they call a fuse tap, and use it to tap into a circuit in the fuse box. Something like the heater blower fuse or the radio fuse probably would handle it.
Will the truck run any better?
The choke is only for starting and the first 10 to 15 minutes of running, depending on how cold it is. It is also connected to your fast idle mechanism.
So without the choke, you are going to have to pump the gas several times, get it started, and keep patting the gas pedal till it warms up enough to go down the road.
With the choke adjusted and operating properly, you push the gas once, maybe twice, start the truck, and pretty much take off down the road without waiting for it to warm up.
OK, then looks like getting the choke hooked up will help out a lot. I havent been able to get it to warm up in the short times I've had it running. Its been below Zero a couple days here.
Any idea where to get a fuse tap? I've never heard of one.
I was actually thinking of justing putting a seperate fuse between the choke and hot line. That way it blows a fuse that doesnt really go to anything. I might go ahead and check out radio shacks fuse taps as well.
never tap into the coil. who ever told you that is on drugs. you will take all the amperage away form the coil and cause poor running. the holley choke needs a minimum of 8 votls and max of 16 so the stator wire on the alternator is you best bet. it is a dedicated circuit on the alt just for the choke.
stator wire on the alternator is you best bet. it is a dedicated circuit on the alt just for the choke.
I'm having problems locating this... I did find a thing of I think 3 wires going to alt. that went back to a location of the starter wire. Does it matter which one I tap into?
If you are going to use the stator wire on the alt, make sure it's the white/black wire.
This really is the best place to hook it, but I was going off hear-say and some people did not think 8 volts was enough to pull the choke off in time. You may be able to set the choke more aggressively though, and overcome this, I do not know. I have never tried the stator connection on a 12 volt choke.
What this connection gives you though, is voltage only when the engine is actually running, and warming up. If you hook it straight to the fuse box, it will work ok, but there is the slight chance someone may leave the key on for a period of time, without the engine running. This would make the choke pull off, but the engine would still be cold. The chances of this happening are slim, but the factory anticipated this, so they used the stator connection for the factory chokes.
Some other manufacturers run the choke wiring through an oil pressure switch to achieve the same thing.
If you hook it to the stator connection, write back and let us know how it worked out.
Alright, I'll see if I can't find the black/white wire that goes to the alt and see how it works out. May be a few dyas before I have time to get around to it. Good news is weather is suppose to stay pretty good for atleast this week.