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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 03:20 PM
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Hard Start

I'm trying to leave work in Michigan, had truck plugged in and truck wouldn't turn over, checked with tester and they are ok, under load tester indicates low charge, any ideas???, I hate to spend 200.00 on a alternater if I don't have to
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 03:21 PM
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Need to get it running and check the charge voltage.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 04:41 PM
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checked voltage

output is 12.7, didn't go up when I read voltage, I'm suspecting a problem with alternator, stopped by local Napa and they have none in system, I guess the cold weather has brought out the best, thanks for input
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 11:24 PM
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Well, my favorite brand of rebuilt alternator is Bosch. Top quality.
The part number for your truck is: AL7555x
 
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 04:02 AM
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Thanks kwik

Your help is appreciated, thanks again
 
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 07:46 AM
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While we are talking alternators, one of the tricks that I have learned over the years is that there is a lot of line loss between the alternator and the battery on some vehicles. The way that I deal with that is to run two auxiliary cables in addition to the factory harness from the alternator to the battery. I do not eliminate any of the factory wiring. One positive, coming off of the big post on the alternator and going to the positive post on the battery. The other negative attached to the body of the alternator, not the mount, or the engine block, but directly to the body of the alternator. One of the mounting bolts for the alternator is sufficient as long as the connection is in direct contact with the alternator body. Run that ground cable clear to the ground post on the battery. I use 6g welding cable. Once that's done it completly eliminates any voltage drop between the alternator and the battery. Makes the batteries last for years.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
One positive, coming off of the big post on the alternator and going to the positive post on the battery.
Doesn't that bypass the stock fusing that protects the battery from a short in the Altenator?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 11:32 AM
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How old are the batteries? If over 3 years then might want to replace with the biggest batteries you can fit. preferably 1000CCA
 
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 05:42 AM
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Battery age

they are stock, 02, although they tested OK I'm aware that they are old, just don't want to spend that money, Thanks
 
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Fords4Me
Doesn't that bypass the stock fusing that protects the battery from a short in the Altenator?
I wasn't aware of any fuse for the alternator charge wire. Is there one?
There certainly isn't one on all the VW and Audi's that I work on all day long, just a 8ga. wire going to the starter post.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by vans
they are stock, 02, although they tested OK I'm aware that they are old, just don't want to spend that money, Thanks
Did they do a load test? Hydrometer test? Or other..
 
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 03:56 PM
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Yeah Kwik, there's a link tapped in on the away from the altenator side. It's a real rare problem, but if your diodes, windings or commutator should short, the two batts could do some impressive damage.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 05:28 PM
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I did a load test, I'm no mechanic but I'm confident that my alternator went bad, I changed it out last night and drove 60 miles through a blizzard to watch my daughter play volleyball, good thing was I didn't have to walk home, truck also worked great today. I ended up buying a new alternator from Auto Zone with lifetime warranty, wanted to purchase from Napa but they couldn't get one untill next week
 
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