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Eddie B Explorer: 1997 or 2002

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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 05:53 AM
  #1  
acastell's Avatar
acastell
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Eddie B Explorer: 1997 or 2002

OK, I am a soon to be newbie...I am in the midst of a purchase decision. I have two Explorers on my list.


1) 1997, Eddie Bauer, 1 ower with ALL records. 100K miles. Purchase directly from owner, meticulous man with 2 other Explorers, a FOrd family Good maintenance as well as some good (A/C, Tranny etc..) work done to the car, all by the dealer. V8, AWD. $5,500, can probably get it for $5,000.


2) 2002, Eddie Bauer, 1 owner according to Carfax, but NO RECORDS. 58K miles. At a CHevy dealer, brought in on trade. V8, 4 wheel drive. 3rd row seat. 15,300, bottom line, no more deal to be had.

I have to tow my boat twice/year, up in spring and back in fall, so a V8 is my top choice. This will be my daily driver, so I need reliable. Both cars have good color and surprisingly, the 97 had great cosmetics, considering the mileage.

I also go to the snow a lot, so good 4 wheel drive system is needed, NO offroading, just snow and maybe lots of it.

Money is an issue, but not a deal breaker at all!

Often, older is better as it is simpler, less electronics. The 97 has air suspension and the 2002 does not...

The 97 is probably at the very bottom of the depreciation curve as the 2002 will be worth 5K in a few years.

Anyway, woud like you thoughts..
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 06:22 AM
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2002 was the first year of that body style. Consumer Reports says, and from experience I agree, NEVER buy the first year or the second really, of a new body style.

If you look around the forum, you'll find a number of people with well over 100k miles on their 95+ Explorers. I have a 99 that's at 94k, with no major issues.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 07:05 AM
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ripcurl94
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From: Nashville
97

If I were you I would go with the 97 EB.. the 2002 also has a HUGE tranny problem.. my wife's parents had to replace there tranny on there 02, at 60k miles.. cost them $2,000. Like jonm61 said.. there are tons of people on this site that have explorers with 150k plus miles.. some even 200k.. i have 97k on my 98 XLT and planning on another 100k.. thats just my opinion.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 08:29 AM
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I'd have to agree with the posters above, unless you need the third row seat, to go with the '97. If well maintained, major mechanicals should easily last another 100,000 miles.

Mason
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 09:23 AM
  #5  
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I really like my 97EB. I use it to tow my boat all over. It's also a V8 AWD. I added a class III tow hitch (recommend that rather than using a bumper mounted ball). The main problem I have had has been with the blend door (see sticky note at the top). If this has an electronic temp control unit, then you may inquire if they have any problems with the HVAC.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 09:24 AM
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Thank you all for the response...I will get the 97 looked at this morning.

Should I spend to get a compression check?
Are the air ride suspensions durable?
Anything elsie I should check for? Actually, I have a good list from reading the archives, but sure will appreciate any advice.

AC
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 09:39 AM
  #7  
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acastell
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Thanks Hank....I saw your post after I posted mine. You point about the hitch is a good one...this has the ball hitch. Do I 'have' to change this or is the Ball Hitch enough t5o handle the boat twice/year 70 miles each way mostly highway. However, up a mountain one way and down the other...

I am worried about the blend door...I will ask. As I understand from the archives, this is hit or miss and no way to prevent it...what a bummer, sounds expensive to fix, mostly labor...thanks again for the heads up.

AC
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 09:54 AM
  #8  
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15300 is a little too much right now for an 02 with almost 60K unless they throw in a sweet warranty. The 02s have proven pretty reliable I would claim for a first year redesign.

The 97 does seem the better deal, but it is a gamble buying a rig with high miles.

if you can pay more, look into a newer lower mile Ex 03/04 maybe, late model SUVs may never be as cheap as they are now.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 10:12 AM
  #9  
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texan2004
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From: Friendswood, Texas
Originally Posted by acastell
Thanks Hank....I saw your post after I posted mine. You point about the hitch is a good one...this has the ball hitch. Do I 'have' to change this or is the Ball Hitch enough t5o handle the boat twice/year 70 miles each way mostly highway. However, up a mountain one way and down the other...

I am worried about the blend door...I will ask. As I understand from the archives, this is hit or miss and no way to prevent it...what a bummer, sounds expensive to fix, mostly labor...thanks again for the heads up.

AC
Have a class III hitch install with all of that money you save buying the 97 EB. You won't be sorry, it doesn't cost that much, and why take a chance. That's how I see it anyway.

As far as the blend door, don't get too intimidated by it. If it does fail, chances are poretty good you can fix it in 30 minutes or less at no cost with the "quicky" blend door fix. If that won't work, I did the job of replacing the entire heater plenum myself in a single day. Started around noon. finished around 8:30pm. Ran errands with the wife for a couple of hours and ate dinner during that time. I was a bit intimidated by it when I started but it really wasn't that bad.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 11:51 AM
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A class III hitch is really not expensive. I got mine from a website something like 'etrailers''. It was a round tube hidden hitch for about $120. It's not too difficult to install - bolts to existing holes in the frame. Looks really good when done - only the receiver and a bit of the tube is visible.

I'm guessing that since this already has a ball installed on the bumper that it has the trailer wiring harness too. If not, search here for info on that. The one that I got was easy to install - plug-in connectors and such. The only other thing I did was to go to my local Ace hardware and get some of the flexible wire tubing (convoluted tubing) to protect the wires for the connector. It also makes it look a whole lot better.

 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 01:15 PM
  #11  
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Outstanding...great forum!!!!

I should have the results of the inspection in a few hours...hope it gets a clean bill of health.

AC
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 01:19 PM
  #12  
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ripcurl94
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From: Nashville
good luck

It sounds like your getting a great deal.. i hope everything checks out as well.. i think it will. let us know
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 07:57 PM
  #13  
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Well, the results are back...the Ford Dealer was very impressed with the Explorer cosmetically. This coupled with the service history (Every record since new) gave him a good feeling.

Here is the bill of health...

Not so bad:
- 1 fog light is out
- Hood shock do not hold hood open
- Cooland hose to engine leaks a bit, probably a clamp, no big deal according to him.

The bad:
- Needs new ball joints (600, includes alignment)
- cracked resivoir tank ($120)

All else checks out...brakes are in good shape as well as the tires.

So, the seller is willing to knock off $300. I talked to my local shop and he can do the ball joints for 400-500, if really needed. He assumed the dealer may be fishing for business and will evaluate. He can also replace the tank for less than the dealer...

So, I told the seller I would think about it and let them know tomorrow..

I am 99% sure I will do it...pretty fired up and anxious to get the rig...

Thanks again for the help...

AC
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 09:12 PM
  #14  
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texan2004
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From: Friendswood, Texas
Wink

Originally Posted by acastell
Well, the results are back...the Ford Dealer was very impressed with the Explorer cosmetically. This coupled with the service history (Every record since new) gave him a good feeling.

Here is the bill of health...

Not so bad:
- 1 fog light is out (Likely just a light bulb - $0.75)
- Hood shock do not hold hood open (Less than $35.00 - replace both sides)
- Cool and hose to engine leaks a bit, probably a clamp, no big deal according to him. (Dont' get cheap, replace the hose - $15.00 tops)

The bad:
- Needs new ball joints (600, includes alignment) - Seems pretty steep. A big hammer and a pcikle fork will let you do this yourself for the cost of the parts on a Saturday morning - $250.00
- cracked resivoir tank ($120) $10.00 for anew one at a local boneyard. Autoparts store can probably get this for you as well for much less than the dealer.

All else checks out...brakes are in good shape as well as the tires.

So, the seller is willing to knock off $300. I talked to my local shop and he can do the ball joints for 400-500, if really needed. He assumed the dealer may be fishing for business and will evaluate. He can also replace the tank for less than the dealer...

So, I told the seller I would think about it and let them know tomorrow..

I am 99% sure I will do it...pretty fired up and anxious to get the rig...

Thanks again for the help...

AC
Have the seller do the repairs if he thinks that $300.00 is all it's worth. I think he's asking a little much for the vehicle if it has anything that needs to be done. Tell him $750.00 off or your you'll be buying the 98 EB you found on the other side of town in better shape.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 09:57 PM
  #15  
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acastell
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Good advice Texan...! You have the right idea, unfortunately, I live in the SF Bay Area and everything has a premium price. The ad I responded to:

1997 Ford Explorer-Eddie Bauer - $5750

Yesterday, I offered to pay him 5K with no PPI or I would pay him 5500 with a PPI. He opted for the 5500 price as this was as low as he (his wife) wanted to go.

I have been searching for quite a while for an EB V8, green, with records. Honestly, I would have paid more a few weeks ago out of frustration...now, I think I have a winner.

So, I do like your advice, buy my geography limits my power...

AC
 
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