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If you are sure the auto-choke is working properly, then I would check that the hot air intake system is working properly. Over the years, these systems get neglected or removed. The warm air off the exhaust manifold makes a big difference during the warm-up period. Good luck.
It's a cheap repair, but perhaps a manual choke would be better and easier.
If you go that route, please post some information. I'm examining that possibility myself if I get yet another carb to replace this one.
Don't install a manual choke, all of the carburated trucks run like crap until they're warm, if it's really an issue keep your engine block heater plugged in over night and you should be able to fire her right up and be on your way.
No the choke isn't working right, first try adjusting it rich then back it off until right, if it works good when cold but not when warm, you adjusted it to rich. I tend to keep it on the leaner side so it doesn't work as good till it is slightly warmed up.
I have a manual choke, they are nice, i mainly installed it for off road use as i can then up the rpm while i work the clutch and brake on obstacles. I would suggest trying to get the auto choke to work. Make sure it is getting voltage to. should be between 4-6 volts.
Don't install a manual choke, all of the carburated trucks run like crap until they're warm, if it's really an issue keep your engine block heater plugged in over night and you should be able to fire her right up and be on your way.
I know it. I recently sold my 84 F250 w/300 1bl carb. I installed a manual choke on it and it was difficult to set. You had to "play" with the choke to get it running good when cold.
My 84 ran great after it was warmed up. This 85 still stumbles and grumbles after it's warmed up.
I'm going to go reset the automatic choke that's on it right now and see what happens.
One thing I have noticed on my 85 is that skinny little metal tube that runs up to the choke from the exhaust manifold is broken. Do I have to replace the whole choke assembly to replace that little stove tube ??
You just pegged it. The choke won't open up without heat from the manifold to tell it how fast the engine is warming up. NAPA sells a universal-fit riser kit that should work fine. Make sure you put the fiberglass insulation over the tube after you have it cut to length. Brian
or you could hit the hardware store and for a few dollars make them yourself.
Especially if your ports on the exhaust manifold are rusted out.
See this link to what I just did on mine, 3rd page has links to pics.
You just pegged it. The choke won't open up without heat from the manifold to tell it how fast the engine is warming up. NAPA sells a universal-fit riser kit that should work fine. Make sure you put the fiberglass insulation over the tube after you have it cut to length. Brian
He should have an electric choke from teh factory. So the heat thing isn't as noticeable. The spring usually wears out also, or the wire breaks somewhere with thefact e-choke.
If you set up manual choke properly there should be no playing around. Push the throttle down, pull out on the cable to close the choke. Start it up and then slowly pull out as needed, that is what the auto-choke would do.
Im having the same problem with mine. Except I have an offy dp and holley 390. I just bout a heated carb spacer off of a 62 ford 4bbl. Now with my oddy setup i have a 2" carb spacer. Where would I put this one, below the carb spacer against the manifold, or ontop of the spacer against the carb? The one I got doesnt have the pcv fitting on it. This was one of the only things I could think to do. I have a header so not to much I can do with getting heat to the maifold for the electric choke I have.
hey just like the replies on fordsix about your spacer i would def put the carb on top of the heated spacer, the heated gas doesn't matter the spacer is there to keep the carb from icing up.
Im having the same problem with mine. Except I have an offy dp and holley 390. I just bout a heated carb spacer off of a 62 ford 4bbl. Now with my oddy setup i have a 2" carb spacer. Where would I put this one, below the carb spacer against the manifold, or ontop of the spacer against the carb? The one I got doesnt have the pcv fitting on it. This was one of the only things I could think to do. I have a header so not to much I can do with getting heat to the maifold for the electric choke I have.
Could you remove the 2" spacer, then both get benefit of the heat?
I told you way back when about a clifford heated spacer, you said they didn't mention it when you called, today I happened to see it in my 2003 clifford catalog, P/N 08-1856 for 4bbl's, wonder why they didn't try and sell you one? Thats odd.
Last edited by Motorhead351; Dec 13, 2005 at 09:14 AM.
Me too kinda odd. Well they guy gave me some tunning tips for the carb and that was it. How much is it in the catelog? I think I can if i get that damn loakr bracket for the univeral 36" cable I have.