Brake line question
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Brake line question
I am about to redo all my brake lines. At this time i want to add to the back of my master the 5 outlet brass block insted of the three so down the road when i add my brake booster i dont have to take it all back apart and re-bend the lines. my question is would it be ok to run a line form the inlet to the outlet for the booster line?( In the picture it would be to booster from booster) and then my others as regular? if this will help here is a link to a thread with the line digram. thanks One last thing. does anyone have a digram or can tell me how the stock three lines go on 54 f100? thanks
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ht=power+brake
I will try a picture too
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ht=power+brake
I will try a picture too
Last edited by cbfomoco; Dec 6, 2005 at 05:51 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Glendale, AZ
Replumbing is a great idea, but do yourself a real safety favor and use a dual master cylinder. That way if one system fails, you still have one that will stop you and keep your shorts clean. As for the power brake booster, that is a choice. Have heard that some of these trucks are very touchy with a power booster. Good luck.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,789
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From: Connecticut
Two things to point out.
How long did the original 1-cell master cylinder last? 20 years? 40 years?
Ever hear lots of stories of them actually failing?
I just went through this, turning a non power booster to booster set up.
If you stay with a single cell cylinder, buy a new one (not rebuilt). Chuck's Trucks has them on the shelf.
If you have a non Boostered Brass block, It may NOT be for a booster set up.
My Brass block from the non booster has a second port drilled in it,
See your drawing above where there is a line from "stop switch-to-booster,
Now make a new port going to the right from the stop switch to the line feeding all 4 ports. If you convert to booster you need a BOOSTER brass block like the one above. they are easy to check. jusl look inside if there is a hole on top AND bottom, it is not a booster block.
I stayed with a new 1 cell master cylinder.
Reamer
How long did the original 1-cell master cylinder last? 20 years? 40 years?
Ever hear lots of stories of them actually failing?
I just went through this, turning a non power booster to booster set up.
If you stay with a single cell cylinder, buy a new one (not rebuilt). Chuck's Trucks has them on the shelf.
If you have a non Boostered Brass block, It may NOT be for a booster set up.
My Brass block from the non booster has a second port drilled in it,
See your drawing above where there is a line from "stop switch-to-booster,
Now make a new port going to the right from the stop switch to the line feeding all 4 ports. If you convert to booster you need a BOOSTER brass block like the one above. they are easy to check. jusl look inside if there is a hole on top AND bottom, it is not a booster block.
I stayed with a new 1 cell master cylinder.
Reamer
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Originally Posted by reamer
Two things to point out.
How long did the original 1-cell master cylinder last? 20 years? 40 years?
Ever hear lots of stories of them actually failing?
I just went through this, turning a non power booster to booster set up.
If you stay with a single cell cylinder, buy a new one (not rebuilt). Chuck's Trucks has them on the shelf.
If you have a non Boostered Brass block, It may NOT be for a booster set up.
My Brass block from the non booster has a second port drilled in it,
See your drawing above where there is a line from "stop switch-to-booster,
Now make a new port going to the right from the stop switch to the line feeding all 4 ports. If you convert to booster you need a BOOSTER brass block like the one above. they are easy to check. jusl look inside if there is a hole on top AND bottom, it is not a booster block.
I stayed with a new 1 cell master cylinder.
Reamer
How long did the original 1-cell master cylinder last? 20 years? 40 years?
Ever hear lots of stories of them actually failing?
I just went through this, turning a non power booster to booster set up.
If you stay with a single cell cylinder, buy a new one (not rebuilt). Chuck's Trucks has them on the shelf.
If you have a non Boostered Brass block, It may NOT be for a booster set up.
My Brass block from the non booster has a second port drilled in it,
See your drawing above where there is a line from "stop switch-to-booster,
Now make a new port going to the right from the stop switch to the line feeding all 4 ports. If you convert to booster you need a BOOSTER brass block like the one above. they are easy to check. jusl look inside if there is a hole on top AND bottom, it is not a booster block.
I stayed with a new 1 cell master cylinder.
Reamer
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 553
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From: MN - NW of Twin Cities
Originally Posted by reamer
Two things to point out.
How long did the original 1-cell master cylinder last? 20 years? 40 years?
Ever hear lots of stories of them actually failing?Reamer
How long did the original 1-cell master cylinder last? 20 years? 40 years?
Ever hear lots of stories of them actually failing?Reamer
My son's friend brought over an older car to have some front disc brakes replaced. In looking at the brake lines we discovered the front lines were severly rusted and leaking. I opened up the master cylinder to find the front cell EMPTY. yet the rear cell was still full. I'm convinced that having a dual master cylinder probably saved this kids life.
If there is any cost difference between single amd duals it's not enough whenlives are at stake. I agree with tbucketjack, a dual master cylinder is the only way to go.
Bruce
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
Modern master cylinders are boosted before the cylinder instead of pressurizing the lines like the diagram. That distribution block is for a separate booster. I have had the unnerving experience of having a brake line fail (usually the rubber flex hose) in a single circuit system. Go to stop, push on the pedal- hard pedal then bang it goes right to the floor and you're just along for the ride. You'd better hope the emergency brake works well, and you have enough time/distance to realize what happened and use it BEFORE your precious truck and a stationary object come together. If you are at speed and it was a rear wheel cylinder that let go, putting on the emergency will turn your truck into a spinning thrill ride (or no thrill if it hits something!) before you can possibly react. Sorry, but IMHO unless you are a restoration purist and aren't going to be driving >30mph using a single circuit brake system is as dumb as not wearing seat belts.
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well then can anyone tell me how to put a duel master on, with a hydrovac, and keep it all under the floor? Perferbly a ford master.? As for speed i would be amased if I have take the truck to 55 i think dad drove faster than that on the interstate but any suggestions? thanks
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Connecticut
Nothing on my single cell system is old. All new steel lines, rubber lines, wheel cylinders, master cylinder.
You are correct though, Replacing the steel lines and not the rubber..... No bargian there.
Really can't tell if the double cell saved his life, If he was riding around with only 1 cell full and the other empty, he WAS using a 1 cell.
Chucks Trucks 860 288 2769
You are correct though, Replacing the steel lines and not the rubber..... No bargian there.
Really can't tell if the double cell saved his life, If he was riding around with only 1 cell full and the other empty, he WAS using a 1 cell.
Chucks Trucks 860 288 2769
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
You can do it all under the floor, but not with the hydrovac, would use a std vaccuum booster. I have a nearly new underfloor non power assisted dual circuit MC system I took off my 56 in favor of hanging pedals/firewall mounted power system I'll give you a good price on. I believe a power booster can be added.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 553
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From: MN - NW of Twin Cities
Originally Posted by reamer
Nothing on my single cell system is old. All new steel lines, rubber lines, wheel cylinders, master cylinder.
You are correct though, Replacing the steel lines and not the rubber..... No bargian there.
Really can't tell if the double cell saved his life, If he was riding around with only 1 cell full and the other empty, he WAS using a 1 cell.
Chucks Trucks 860 288 2769
You are correct though, Replacing the steel lines and not the rubber..... No bargian there.
Really can't tell if the double cell saved his life, If he was riding around with only 1 cell full and the other empty, he WAS using a 1 cell.
Chucks Trucks 860 288 2769
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From: Durham NC
I would say it would depend on what type of driving you do, and how much you value your life and your truck. If your truck is for "playing" around town and seldom/never would be driven in heavy traffic, at high speeds, distances >50 miles, with loved ones as passengers, you haven't added seat belts, turn signals, electric wipers, radial tires, or converted to 12V, have an OEM steering box, want to add the hydrovac for the novelty not for better braking, and the MC, wheel cylinders are all new, then stick with the OEM system.
If any of the above are not true, and/or you would be very upset if your truck was involved in an accident because of a mechanical failure, then convert to a dual system.
If any of the above are not true, and/or you would be very upset if your truck was involved in an accident because of a mechanical failure, then convert to a dual system.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Isn't is strange that cars and trucks stopped fine with single cylinder master cylinders for about 35 years before the dual cylinders emerged. All of sudden the single cylinders weren't safe anymore. In all the years of driving I did before dual master cylinders made their debut, I never once had a MC related accident or serious problem stopping. Any prudent driver doesn't drive around with bad wheel cylinders or rusted lines. It's just like anything else...maintenance is the key..... 
Vern
Vern
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
Originally Posted by GreatNorthWoods
Isn't is strange that cars and trucks stopped fine with single cylinder master cylinders for about 35 years before the dual cylinders emerged. All of sudden the single cylinders weren't safe anymore. In all the years of driving I did before dual master cylinders made their debut, I never once had a MC related accident or serious problem stopping. Any prudent driver doesn't drive around with bad wheel cylinders or rusted lines. It's just like anything else...maintenance is the key.....
Vern
Vern
Point made?
Lead Driver
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
At this particular point in time I have just one running vehicle and it only has 3000 miles on it but it's already had it's first oil change and lube. Up until a couple of years ago I had a running street rod since the 70s. The brake linings and wheel cylinders got a check everytime a wheel came off for any reason and they all came off at least once a year for rotation in the Spring as the rod run season began. I replace fan belts and hoses every five years whether they need it or not and flush coolant every other year. No, I don't do a complete inspection of the undercarriage everytime I drive over an unpaved road. I avoid running over debris to begin with. I am probably more conscious about maintenance than most people but the point I wanted make is that single reservoir master cylinders were safe for 35 years and they still are. Yes, I am installing a dual in my truck, but if had a single in it already I would not jump through hoops to change it over or try to convince anyone else that their vehicle was not safe unless it had a dual cylinder...
Vern
Vern
Last edited by GreatNorthWoods; Dec 8, 2005 at 01:31 PM.