It seems to me that your problem will be in the battery connections or one of the main grounds. If you don't get anything back on the codes then I would start by cleaning up all of your connections at the battery and the major ground locations - you can trace these in your Haynes or Chilton manual. There are numerous ground locations in the engine bay and a poor connection at one of these will cause your engine to stumble - esp. if there is dew or condensation present - and will also cause your amp/alt guage to fluctuate.

Cheers!

Mike

 

Thanks for the suggestions, I will try this as well.


-Frank

 

Okay, I pulled the codes last night. And here is what I got (as long as I did it right): KOEO 116, 636 & 111 (I tried it several times, both KOEO and KOER and the 111 came up the last time); KOER 116, 636, 172, 538, 536, 632 and CM 668.

When I did the tests, I did it first with the engin off then I did the engine on and I repeated it a couple of times just to make sure I had everything. After I got done with the last engine running check I couldn't get my engine to start again; all I get is a click every time I turn the key. I got a wire and bypassed that little sylinoid/ switch by the battery but I still got the same thing. This has happened before and all I had to do was wack the starter and it would start up. Any Ideas as to what is wrong with that?

This morning, woke up to about 6" of snow, the truck started up and got me to work without a problem (I just hope it gets me home the same).

Well, this is what I found if anyone has any Ideas as to what I'm up against (I just want to get this thing running reliably). All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys for the help so far.

-Frank

 

538 = Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test/ Operator error...
That meens you didnt push the gas pettle when you where supposed to during the test....

532 = Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD) ....
meens you didnt push the o/d switch when you were supposed to...

636 = TOT sensor voltage out of self test range....Not sure what that one is...

668 = Transmission Manual Lever Position Sensor circuit open....

The code d172 is the one that I would be concerned with it says
HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (right side)

I would start with a complete tune up and also change your fuel filter...
Also check your Fuel presure regulator...And also the Fuel pressure....

 

I didn't know that I was supposed to press the accelerator or the overdrive while I was doing the KOER check. I got a fuel filter the other day and am going to try to change that today, as long as my truck will let get over to my dads house (I live in an apartment, so no space to work and my dad has a barn).

Any Ideas about why it doesn't start?

How do I check my fuel pressure regulator?

I will have to get a gauge to check my fuel pressure, is that something that I can get at like autozone?

Thanks,
-Frank

 

Another question,

when I change the fuel filter, do I have to depressurize the fuel system and if I do, how do I do that. And the connectors on the ends are those like the ones that have the spring inside where you have to use the little plastic ring things? Thanks again,
-Frank

 

Yes depressurize the system...There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail that you can press the neddle on and it will release the pressure....Just be sure to do this after
the engine has cooled down...Also for those little clips the new fuel filter that you have should have come with new ones....If it did just use some neddle nose pliers and remove them...Be sure to dry up any gas on the engine before restarting...I would hate to see you burn down your truck...

Also when you remove the old fuel filter make sure that you do not have your head under it gas will run out...Safety first....

yes autozone has the Fuel pressure guages....

And for the problem with you haveing to beat on the Starter ..It more than likely is on its way out....Take it out and have it checked....

 

If I were you I would also get a good repair manual for your truck...It will help you alot when trying to do repairs...

 

have u checked the voltage regulator? if it goes, the power needed to run everything like fuel spark ect. that comes from the alternator will now come from the battery instead and just get worse until there is not enough juice left in the battery to run anything.
idle the truck and while it is running, pull off the neg. bat. cable and if it stalls then replace the voltage regulator
been through it before myself

 

I replaced my fuel filter and spark plugs last night. I was going to change my wires too but when I went to, the ones that I bought from Autozone must have been the wrong ones because the wire that goes from the coil pack (I think) to the rotor was about one third the length that I needed. And I got a fuel pressure guage from Autozone and will try to check my fuel pressure today. Oh, my wife picked up a Haynes repair manual from the library for me yesterday.

On my way home yesterday, I still have the problem, it seems like I'm missing some power somewhere, if I am driving along at 50-55 my truck keeps going in and out of overdrive, like it doesn't have enough power to keep up to speed while in OD. And on my way to work this morning, I was driving at about 20 and trying to accelerate to 25 (somewhat slowly) and I didn't have enough power, I wasn't flooring it just stepping on it a lot more than I should have had to, and it backfired a couple of times.

I will try unhooking my neg battery cable with my truck running and see what happens. I checked my battery voltage with the engine off and it was about 12.4. Then I checked the voltage at my battery with the engine running and it was about 14.7 (that tells my how much my alternator is putting out right?). Thanks for the help so far.
-Frank

 

Sounds like your alt is working correctly with those voltage readings. The starter clicking and not turning the engine over means your starter is defective. Mine did this a couple monthe ago and it was in bad shape. Replaced it with a rebuilt unit (after snapping a mounting bolt then heating with a torch and after much cursing it finally came out) and truck starts fine now. Mine would tend to only do this clicking and not cranking when my GM owning buddies were around to make fun of my truck. Oh well.

 

NOTE:

DO NOT disconnect the battery when your truck is running unless you want to replace many electronic devices on your truck which can/will be damaged as a result.

 

Thanks for the warning and info on the starter. I will not disconnect the battery, with the truck running.
-Frank

 

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that when I got home last night, I tried to pull my codes again but it didn't work. I hooked the wire between the neg. battery cable and the STI and the CEL didn't flash anything, it acted like it does when the wire isn't hooked up (I tried a different wire to no avail). I worked easily yesterday. Oh well, I will try again tonight.
-Frank

 

Ford code readers are cheap at almost any parts store. I would not bother messing with jumper wires possibly leading to shorting the EEC or something else. I bought one with a LCD readout that tells you exactly what codes you have for about $35.00 CDN.