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Yep, billetbadges.com, the guy does awesome work. Here are some that he made up for me. Just email him your ideas and he emails back to you a rendering of what the badge will look like. If you like it, just let him know and he makes it.
I just had a body shop replace my f250 emblems yesterday. They used a bug flat blade screwdriver and supported it with there hand to portect the paint. Started prying up one side and as it got loose was able to pull the emblem off. They had a nice trick for removing the sticky stuff. They used an "eraser" wheel in a drill that just rubbed the goo off. Took about 1 minute and no damage to the paint. The wheel looked like it was made from the same stuff as an office eraser. The difference in my fender emblems is they have xl on them and the tailgate does not. People behihd me do not know I have an xl, but they know it is a SUPER DUTY. John
Those are awesome! Can I ask where you got those side marker light in your fenders? Those look really sharp!
Thanks, I got them from Pep Boys. If you get them you can't be afraid of drilling holes in your truck, you'll need a big one for the bulb socket to go through. I just sealed off the hole with clear silicone so the holes don't start to rust.
Try heating the badge up first with a hair dryer to help soften the sticky stuff. This will make the fishing line go thru easier. I also read somewhere to take a couple strands of line and twist them together to make a tougher string that you can almost saw thru the stuff with. Good Luck
I used the inner nylon from Parachute Cord (550 cord). Worked like a charm.... dental floss will break on you...haven't tried fishing line. When you get to the plastic guides your gonna have to pry up on it and re-insert the cord to continue the sawing action...or you could just try to pry the badge off from there.
I got some new badges today (the F350 and the PSD for both sides) to replace my faded and cracked original badges. Problem is, the ones the dealer gave me are the newer chrome raised style. I actually prefer them and they look really great, but I noticed they are a different size than my '99 badges. The PSD door emblem is a bit taller, but not as wide. The F350 badge is bigger all around.
Has anyone replaced '99 badges with the newer style or otherwise know if this will work? I guess the only question is if the centering pins line up correctly on the F350 badge as it looks like the PSD badge is just "tape" and no centering pins to worry about.
On the F350 badges, if the location of the pins is the same distance, will the final location of the badge be correct? That is, even if the pins line up with the holes, will the badge be too high or too close/far to/from the door?
Sorry for all the nervous questions, I just don't want to pop off one of the existing badges and find the new ones don't work.
Man I'm not thinking - of course I could just snip off the alignment pins of the new badges!
Thanks for the help and the link is great (I've seen it b/4 probably in a previous post from you!).
I'll pop them off tomorrow in the shop so the temp is warm enough for the new ones to cure (do I need to leave it in the shop for 24hrs or just long enough for them to stick nice?)
Once you snip off the alignment pins, use a Dremal tool or something similat to make sure you get the remains of the pin below the surface of the sticky tape. This will prevent the pin base from keeping the badge from seating properly.
Both sides are finished (I'm waiting on the tailgate as I'm looking to replace the gate with a new one). I didn't need to snip the pins - the alignment pins on the newer style badges exactly match the old ones (even though the new badges are slightly bigger all around).
The lower PSD emblems are a bit smaller than the old style. I didn't have a newer truck to compare, so I put the emblems toward the front fender in-line with the old ones rather than toward the rear of the door.
Biggest pain by far was getting the old double stick tape off - my fingers still hurt from pulling and prying and nearly all my finger nails (at least nail stubs) are bleeding underneath from trying to peel off the remaining tape. I used goo gone as recommended by others, but it didn't seem to do much other than smear the sticky stuff around. I used a large pencil eraser on the recommendation of another user here - it worked really well for the small light adhesive once the larger pieces were removed.
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