After some looking into the tapping I can hear a off tempo random knock at the front where the exhaust manifold gasket was leaking. (sticky/bent valve) ? I think it'd be best if I just took the old girl out now and had her rebuilt before it's being done due to severe issues.

Anyone know a fair/"reputable" mechanic for this within 100 miles of me ? Costa Mesa, CA

 

rebuilding it is going to cost to much cash. drop a new engine in there for 1300.00

 

Well I took her by a tune up shop off Harbor Ave and Bay St that seems to always have Classics in the bays and explained the fellow who hosted the counter my scenario of events with her. He suggested since I'll likely have to remove the oil pan, valve covers, oil pump, pickup, (as they would likely go to use on a new motor anyhow)- why not go ahead and remove the oil pan and have a look... maybe replace the pickup and oil pump/ so the worst would be a few gaskets being repurchased for pan, valve covers, etc..should the new motor be the only option/ it would give me a chance to have one last look at the motor before digging in deep.

It doesn't smoke so the valve guides idea is questionable, muddy pickup?maybe but the oil is very clean, I guess the only thing to do is take his advice on this. Seems to be resonable..

any No's on this ?

 

RmBob, The clack clack clack that you could be hearing also could be a wristpin bushing about out. Ya gotta about rebuild the engine to replace it so.......

I would recommend buying a mid 70s up to 76 donor truck, 360 engine and tranny of choice. Rebuild the 360 into a 390 and have all the power steering, disc brake upgrade parts. Shoot, Ya might even rebuild the tranny too and move your sheetmetal over to the donor chassis, and you would be fixed for many years of driving.

I don't recall everyones project, so if you already have the upgrades, forgive my suggestions.

John

 

I have heard similar sounds the result of a bad fuel pump. The pump lever "slaps" the eccentric and makes the ticking. You mentioned the noise was at the front , so that could be the pump? Easy to checkout/fix.

 

I wish I could record the sound and post it here. It is right near the front drivers side. It is a thud like soft knock that is somewhat random, once the ruck is warmed up it's almost impossible to hear unless your right upon the valve cover. It seems to come from about the mid area of the head but who can be sure..All in all the motor runs rather well, just not turn key by any means. It wont spin the tires or anything..but has ok pickup once rolling.
I think the last run checkup is a must.. I have a lead on a 390 from a 71 Torino in Corona that I will take a look at this weekend 500.00 for the package 390/C6 and he's willing to bartar some.. only thaing that worries me is it's not in the car anymore so I would like to hear it run and dont think thats an option..

 

bob,before you go any further i would definitely check the fuel pump.like prostock suggests i have seen this problem before.i once had aknocking on a223 6 cyl.sounded like arod so i pulled the pan and found no problem.ended up removing spark plugs one at a time and running engine.evidently apeice of carbon buildup was causing the knock and it blew out of the plug hole.anyway it fixed the knock.

 

I had a knock like that and it turned out to be a wrist pin knock. Didn't knock when the engine was cold didn't knock when it was reved up sounded like a rod knock and you could hear it best at a idle. Tom

 

The ol 390 that I had with the bad wrist pin was a steady clack clack clack hot or cold, didn't matter.

I think you are supposed to be able to pull the spark plug wires one at a time to help ID a cylinder knock, right??

John

 

Geeze Guys, this is a Ford, they are supposed to make wierd noises. Just drive it. Save your money and if you do decide to install a new power train (engine transmission), go for a 460 with a C6. Like I said, this does not seem like a impending failure. Just drive it! IMHO!

 

Redmanbob

I also have a simular knock in my 352. A long time ago I bought a stethascope for engines to listen to shaft bearings at work. They are cheap and believe it or not they work pretty good. I used it on my 352 and like several have stated it turned out to be the fuel pump. While you are testing it clamp off the discharge fuel line going to the carb and see if the noise changes. It nade a differant noise when I clamped off my fuel line.
I also had the oportunity to pull my cam timing cover and found everything to be in good shape.
Of memorey serves me my old 68 with a 390 used to make the same noise.

I think those stethascopes can be purchased at Harbor frieght for about $5.00

Good luck

jd

 

Mine makes a very similar noise. I know my fuel pump is part of the problem, but I also have a lifter that collapses when it gets hot. it works fine cold. its just noise, and I've been running the truck a long time like this. the oil stays clean, there's no metal in the pan at oil changes, and the engine runs strong and smooth other than sound

 

I'll take that advice before digging into it. should be easy to discern from the sound of it. I plan on doing as little as possible haha but if I do go the pan rout I plan to go ahead and do the other exhaust mainifold as it's piffing now.. as well as vavle covers, oil pump, pickup just get it over with///

 

I had this happen to me twice. Take a long screwdriver, put the end on top of the fuel pump and the handle to your ear, if it's the pump, you'll know.
What happens, usually with cheap pumps, is that the damper spring inside the pump breaks, allowing the lever to slap.

 

Holy Smokes!! you had to see it. I uploaded picts to my gallery instead of posting here. I pulled the valve covers to find signs of overheating (caked on gunk) along the tops of each head and a clogged return on rear drivers side. I flushed the engine with diesel fuel several times, replaced the valve covers flushed some more. Filled it with 99¢ store oil ran it for 10 min and drained that. Dropped the pan and still there was gunk. It was caked all inside the back of the timing chain cover as well. Before I forget how much play is reasonable in the timing chain ? One side was tought and the other had about 3/4" play to it.. I got a new oil pump and pickup as it is obvoisly a mess. Then got in a big hurry to beat the daylight and put the darn thing back together minus the oil pump drive shaft, got angry and messed up the gasket so I have to wait till the auto parts opens in the morning to wrap it all up.. I feel pretty dumb at the moment but I guess if it went perfect I'd be scared to death to drive it Oh yeah I do believe after some real listening that the fuel pump is the tapping noise. I'll have a better look tomorrow

Thanks for all the insight, Redmanbob