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There should not be more than 1/2" of play in one side of the timing chain while the other side is tight. It sounds like the timing set should also be replaced.
Believe it or not I have seen worse.
My father had a full service gas station back in the 60's and this women brings in her car for a service. My father went to change the oil and only drained about 2 quarts. He than pulled the intake to find sludge so thick you could not see the push rods. Long story short he ended up doing a complete overhaul. I learned young that oil changes at 2500 can save in the long run.
That must have been my Mom LOL she came home once in my step dads Coupe De Ville , it reaked!!! he came storming out the house ticked off...turned out she had sat in a fast food parking lot with the AC on shooting the breeze with her mom over lunch..I'll never forget every sware word he said as he dug deeper and deeper into that mess of an engine..
Well I got the pan back up with the pump drive in this time...was a real pleasure trying to get the lower bolt in the pickup after placing the pan past it I had just enough room toget a wrench in to tighten the two bolts a 1/16 turn at a time.. What I wouldn't give for a garage...(and a hydraulic lift, air wrenches, welding unit----You listening Santa ? )
i have seen worse. that caked on stuff is not form overheating. it looks like oil which sheared and broke down. this is a common textbook example of why not to run a motor oil with to many VI improvers like 10w40 or 20w50. both additive packs will colapse and form an acid which when mixtured with condensation fors that buildup. what kind of oil are you running in there now??? i suggest using diesel rated oil. like 15w40. or 5w30 or 10w30.
I just put Castrol 10w40 in it... but it's planned to change in a short time due to the diesel flush I dont think this fill is good for very long...What is the difference in the oils (rather where is it stated on the containers/internet) data to review....? I run the 10/40 in my 2002 Ram quad cab and have never seen any thing like this mess..but I do change it about every 3 g's
your ram uses 5w30 i thought? 10w40 was and still is a nasty oil to use. it is the nature of it. it collapses and forms a mess. 10w40 also uses GP I basestock which is 1 up from tar on the bottom of the barrel. the 10w40 also has very little additives. because the oil companies put no reasearch in such a old outdated oil. if i were you and wanted the 40w then i would use a 15w40 diesel rated oil. good cleaning power unbeatable wear ability. you can get delo by chevron which has 260 ppm of moly which is a strong barrier lube. i would use 10w30 in the FE or 15w40 but never 10w40.
I had to have a little info so I read up on it some..http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilshear.htm At the bottom of the page he states "The higher the spread between the bottom number and the top number the more VI improvers are relied on for maintaining the viscosity. Better to keep the numbers closer.' This throughs me ?? but I'll take your advice and see what I can dig up... might want to rinse out the Dodge and freshen it up LOL Thanks for the insight... I have something to research now..
yes that is a good guidline. but sometimes manufactures or blenders add some or get rid of some. castrol is only a blender not a maker. any reason why you run 10w40 in the dodge???
so the spread between 10w40 is 30 points and 5w30 is 25
compulsive habit ? best guess ,,,hehehe I thought if you change oil on time it was good to go. Unless you drive like a bat out a heLL and never check any thing "I know folks like that" and in their case I dont think any grade of oil is going to solve the issue...especialy when there is none left in the engine LOL.. I'll try the 15/40 and see how she acts.. Thanks
your ram uses 5w30 i thought? 10w40 was and still is a nasty oil to use. it is the nature of it. it collapses and forms a mess. 10w40 also uses GP I basestock which is 1 up from tar on the bottom of the barrel. the 10w40 also has very little additives. because the oil companies put no reasearch in such a old outdated oil. if i were you and wanted the 40w then i would use a 15w40 diesel rated oil. good cleaning power unbeatable wear ability. you can get delo by chevron which has 260 ppm of moly which is a strong barrier lube. i would use 10w30 in the FE or 15w40 but never 10w40.
gashog, where in the world are you getting that info from?
The reason I ask is because I have 800-900,000 miles on 10W40 oil and Fram filters before Fram became a dirty word. I'm still not hearing mass failures because of the Fram.
I had one van that had 206,000 miles on it when I sold it, and less than 5,000 on it when I bought it, nothing but 10W40 was used when I had it.
That is pretty harsh on 10W40, and is hard for me to digest.
I feel the same way about it this is my 11 or 12th vehicle since i started and I've never had one have that sludge in it unless it was already there. I think it's a case of maintenance and driver habits. If your doing the LA grind every day a 5 mph for 30miles in 90º heat with your AC kickin and dont change the oil until the dealer sends you a christmas card well, Hello! And then theres the folks who do this as well as get a wild hair up there rear to jump in the car and head for vegas 3 times a year driving 100+ all the way there on top it...
I think it really doesnt matter what oil provided you stay on top of the situation. If it shears before the recommended time it's probably not the oils fault..
I have also been running 10-40 for years and have put more than 150,000 on everything Iv'e owned and pulled the valve covers just for grins to find nothing but a spotless engine. My first car I used Penz and what a mistake. Switched to Castrol about 30 years ago and have been happy ever since. I also change it every 2,500 miles and every now and than I slip and it get to 3,000. I have also had good luck with the frams but after joining this site and getting some insight to filters I have gone back to Motorcraft filters.